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"Project Sil3nT" Building test system. - Page 4

post #31 of 1503
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by superj1977;15520060 
Loving the res/pump holder,thats kinda unique alright.
So much thought into cable management,this build is looking to be a real good one allready.

Its all the little bits like the fan cable mods that make the finnish so smooth,whish i had money and patience to do an epic build,will do one day though thats for sure.

Subbed for sure cool.gif


Sorry I missed your top of your reply.

That cost me about 3$ to make including the steel and the cutting disks.


Probably another 10$ when I get it sandblastered .
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post #32 of 1503
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dgIFI.jpg
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post #33 of 1503
Thread Starter 
I was going to get res/pump mount sandblasted.

Since I have time while waiting for parts to arrive from America. I'll show you guys how to achieve a professional result with aerosol cans.

Im working with a satin and matt black, so its going to be hard to show you guys what a full gloss looks like.

I'm sure I can find a gloss something in the workshop to bring up a shine.

First thing is first,

Painting anything requires huge amounts of surface preparation, laying your color is one of the last steps.

Normally I would be using 2 pacs and HPLV gravity fed spray gun, but we dont all that gear lying around.

I'm going to do my best to start writing as many tutorials as possible so you guys can follow.

So tonight I have my laptop/camera in my workshop. Im going to take my time and upload and explain this step by step. If it means I spam my own thread so be it. If it takes the next 5 pages of photos so be it.


This is what Im going to paint,



LooTH.jpg


I'll also paint this piece of scrap steel, pretend its a case side panel.


2zIVq.jpg
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post #34 of 1503
Thread Starter 
I don't have the materials to achieve a full gloss tonight.

Surface prep is going to be the same tho .

To achieve a mirror gloss which I will go into more later requires blocking back with 800-2000 wet and dry and using a clear coat to finish. I'll go into that later.

Each and every surface you prepare to paint will only be as good as your preparation. Paint itself does not fill blemishes or imperfections if anything it will highlight them.

If you want a flawless gloss, your surface has to perfect.

I finished work late tonight, but I manage to get these. I'm not going for a mirror finish because im not using high gloss paints but I'm going to achieve a flawless finish.


5OlWh.jpg

Super Engine Enamel : Forget its engine enamel. Its still an Enamel.

Spray Putty : Its to fill the slightest surface imperfections after primer.

Super Primer: Used to prime bare metal surface to provide a adhering base for spray putty.

Body filler: Bare metal filler, fill every imperfection.

Fly spray: Bugs are pain in the ass, when spraying anything out of a spray both just make sure you dont sweep the floor before you paint anything. Don't stir any dust . Just make sure you have a workshop that you can close up. Then SPRAY the entire room with fly spray, walk outside close the door behind you. BUGS DIE
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post #35 of 1503
Thread Starter 
A big tub or water, add some sugar soap not so much for the cleaning side but for lubrication when sanding. Don't use a household detergent as it will leave a residue behind.

JN3pe.jpg

Sand papers are a important point, different color sandpapers mean different types of sandpapers. Do not use cheap sand papers, use good sand paper. Never ever use sand paper called glass paper.

A good way to tell if its cheap/nasty sand paper is to fold it . When you fold it the sand and glue/resins will crack off at the fold.

JCAc3.jpg

V6baK.jpg

From left to right, I'm using a resin paper 150 grit, not meant for wet and dry but in my experience it works really well. easiest way to find this paper is ask for drywall/gyprock sanding sheets.

Wet and dry 320 grit.

Wet and dry 400 grit.

This will get you to gloss stage, as we go further and start sanding primers. Only use 400 grit, if you use say 800 grit on a primer if defeats the purpose of using a primer. You using a primer to create a adhering surface for a top coat , still need the primer to be the tiniest bit rough to create a perfect bonding surface.
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post #36 of 1503
Thread Starter 
H4eFp.jpg

HplYZ.jpg

MTga9.jpg

ZOjCr.jpg

Sand every edge to get it to a uniform surface.

VwKgz.jpg

4nJ2W.jpg

BVnIl.jpg



At this stage, get in the habbit of keeping your fingers off painted surfaces. Handle it as little as possible. Your skin has natural oils that isnt welcomed from her onwards.

T6SC8.jpg
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post #37 of 1503
Thread Starter 
Let it air dry.

2bde7.jpg

Being late at night I don't have the time to let it air dry, so I used my perfectly clean barbecue with a hood. to pretty much cook it clean.
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post #38 of 1503
Thread Starter 
Think ahead overspray is pain in the arse.


Make a make shift open spray booth like this. I made this out of MDF offcuts.

Make sure you heaps of light, fluros are the best as they cast very little shadow compared to other lights.


XzDJA.jpg

5jtfv.jpg

4znES.jpg
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post #39 of 1503
Thread Starter 
2iCYa.jpg

Keep this coat of primer light, almost just a quick cover. Thats all it is at this point do not do two coats, just enough to cover.

Aussie babry baking.

YLcki.jpg

5KGzO.jpg

T5TlI.jpg

Like I said my barby is super clean, I have no worries about fat and oil off the plates hitting the paint work. This is extremely important, anything from here onwards will contaminate the surface. Then the headaches will begin. Orange peel for one.

If you choose to cook, do so on the lowest you can. To much heat will have to adverse reaction to the paint.
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post #40 of 1503
Thread Starter 
Considering I fabricated this from scratch I was expecting to have to do alot more surface prep, I've skipped the body filler stage as there is nothing really to fill.

Once I let the primer dry I started with lots of light coats of Spray putty. Just make sure you shake this , then you shake some more. Then keep shaking if you dont you'll clog the tip from inside the can or you'll just be spraying uneven coats of mess.

XIKTN.jpg

O1v1L.jpg
|
be2ym.jpg

QnR3c.jpg

XWMyP.jpg
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