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Lets build me a water loop!

post #1 of 16
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Ok, I have just added my new mobo,RAM and PSU to my sig rig. everything is going great so far for my upgrade's untill I saw the temps the Gigabyte UD3 gives off. Its warm enough at stock clocks I don't feel comfortable Over Clocking it just yet. So I am here to see what is the best way to go about setting up a water loop for my system.
At first I was going to do a full custom loop untill I saw the price for all the parts I wanted to do lol. So then I was looking at just getting a Rasa(rx or RS240) kit and upgrading it little by little as time goes on.

I know for a fact that I'll be putting my CPU and mobo under water at first and when I get my GPU's (6950's in CF....6970's if the price comes down a bit) they will be swimmers. I don't see a point in putting my 460 underwater. I have been doing some looking via google and found that there are no full water blocks for my board so I will have to use some universal blocks then I found out there there are universals that will fit my NB and VRAMs/mosfets but nothing for the south bridge. I'm ok with that as I see no reason to cool the SB anway.

Now to the point! At this time I planed on getting a Rasa 240(rx or RX cant decide just yet because I need both style's of rad) some new blue tubing an extra RX240 rad and a water block set for my mobo. What I'm stalled on is the Rasa 750 pump. What can it handle? will it be strong enough for my mobo blocks, CPU, AND two GPU blocks? or should I just dump the rasa kit and start from scratch? I know what rads I need for my set up. I want to use an RX120 in rear exhaust, RS240 in the top of case and an RX 240 in the bottom. Because I was going to start off with just the CPU and Mobo I am choosing to only use a 120 and a 240 to start off, I can add the third rad when I add my 6950's. so my real questions are:
1. how well will the 750 rasa pump suite my needs?
2. What 240 rad should I use at first? RX240 or RS240?

Sorry for the long post but I'm being very OCD about my first water loop. I have been looking and reading for over 5 months now and still cant make up my mind as to how to star this thing off lol. Thanks guys!
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Gizmoto
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post #2 of 16
I wouldn't go with a RASA kit, take it from someone that went with the same mentality of using a RASA kit then upgrading it slowly.

Personally, I'd just do your own custom loop. You'll be changing out the pump, tubing, fans, and clamps, so there is half the kit already. The XSPC X2O 750 pump is nice for CPU only loops, or a CPU + GPU loop if both blocks are very low restriction. Many people like to exaggerated how good this pump is, and yes it can power through a GPU block, but the more restriction you put on it, the worse it'll perform temperature wise.

I've changed out the radiator and pump on my RASA kit before with an MCP355 & MCR-320-QP, and I went back to the X2O 750 pump because it was much quieter and was plenty for my CPU only loop. That being said, I'll provide some recommendations for you:

Pumps: 1-2 MCP350, MCP355, MCP35X, MCP655
Explanation: MCP350's are great pumps. They're quiet and pretty powerful for the size and how much power they use. 1 MCP350 is plenty for a single GPU, CPU, and chipset cooling. If you use low-restriction blocks, you might be able to use 2 GPU blocks, especially if you run them in parallel instead of series. MCP355 is a very powerful pump, but too loud for my liking, and they run extremely hot if you don't have enough restriction in the loop, i.e. you're only running a CPU block and chipset block. MCP35X is similar to the MCP355, but slightly more powerful. MCP655 is a good reliable pump that most people swear by, but it has a high heat dump, and doesn't have as much head pressure as the MCP355 or MCP35X, making it less suitable for a large loop.
My Vote: A single MCP350 using low restriction water blocks and running the GPU blocks in parallel if you ever get GPU blocks.

Reservoir/Top: XSPC Premium Acrylic Reservoir for DDC's or Whatever res you want.
Explanation: XSPC res/top for DDC's will work with an MCP350 or MCP355, I believe an MCP35X too, but don't quite me on that. It'll give a nice performance boost as well as add a reservoir to your loop to easily add water/coolant.

Radiators: MCR-220-QP & RX120 & RX240
Explanation: XSPC RS240 radiators are mediocre radiators. They aren't the best performers, but they are thin. But, a great radiator that's just as thin are Swiftech MCR-220-QP's. This would be the perfect radiator to put at the top of your case. Better performer than an RS240, and just as thin. The other 2 radiators are self explanatory, great rads for a good price that suite your needs perfectly, though you could switch out the RX120 for a thinner MCR-120-QP.

CPU Water Blocks: XSPC Rasa, XSPC Raystorm, Koolance CPU-370
Explanation: XSPC Rasa is a great price/performance block, though it adds a fair amount of restriction to the loop. XSPC Raystorm is the best block on the market, being very very low restriction, low cost, and an amazing performer, only con is it looks like a kids toy with the acrylic on it that I highly dislike. Koolance CPU-370, another very low restriction block and another great performer, it looks amazing too, but it is the most expensive of the three. It isn't the best performing block, but it's up there in the ranks, being one of the best.
My Vote: XSPC Raystorm if you don't mind the acrylic.

Coolant: Distilled Water
Explanation: Coolant with dyes are frowned upon. The dye usually splits from the water after a few months and can clog up water blocks, leading to a real messy and painful cleanup. Plus coolant costs a lot of money, and in most cases temperatures can actually be worse than straight distilled water.

Fans: These are up to you depending on how much you want to spend. Personally, I only use Scythe Gentle Typhoon's, but they're VERY expensive. Other great yet cheap radiator fans are Yate Loon's or Cooler Master Sickleflow/R4's. Both of those are sleeve bearing fans, so eventually their bearings will start to go bad and become very noisy, but they will last a few years before that happens.

Tubing: Primochill LRT 1/2" ID or 7/16" ID
Explanation: Primochill has great tubing. Looks great, cuts great, comes in a variety of colors, etc. I use 1/2" ID for ease of installation and removal of tubing, but 7/16" ID will provide a better seal and insure there won't be leaks.

Clamps: Stainless Steel worm clamps or Koolance clamps
Explanation: Plastic clamps are junk. They're hard to remove, they don't put a ton of pressure on the tubing, and, well, metal will always be superior to plastic.

Extras: Silver KillCoil
Explanation: Adding this with distilled water ensures that algae and bacterial growth doesn't happen inside of your loop, just stick it in a reservoir and you're done.


I may have missed a tiny detail here or there, but I spent enough time typing this all up .
    
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post #3 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by `br4dz- View Post
I wouldn't go with a RASA kit, take it from someone that went with the same mentality of using a RASA kit then upgrading it slowly.

Personally, I'd just do your own custom loop. You'll be changing out the pump, tubing, fans, and clamps, so there is half the kit already. The XSPC X2O 750 pump is nice for CPU only loops, or a CPU + GPU loop if both blocks are very low restriction. Many people like to exaggerated how good this pump is, and yes it can power through a GPU block, but the more restriction you put on it, the worse it'll perform temperature wise.

I've changed out the radiator and pump on my RASA kit before with an MCP355 & MCR-320-QP, and I went back to the X2O 750 pump because it was much quieter and was plenty for my CPU only loop. That being said, I'll provide some recommendations for you:

Pumps: 1-2 MCP350, MCP355, MCP35X, MCP655
Explanation: MCP350's are great pumps. They're quiet and pretty powerful for the size and how much power they use. 1 MCP350 is plenty for a single GPU, CPU, and chipset cooling. If you use low-restriction blocks, you might be able to use 2 GPU blocks, especially if you run them in parallel instead of series. MCP355 is a very powerful pump, but too loud for my liking, and they run extremely hot if you don't have enough restriction in the loop, i.e. you're only running a CPU block and chipset block. MCP35X is similar to the MCP355, but slightly more powerful. MCP655 is a good reliable pump that most people swear by, but it has a high heat dump, and doesn't have as much head pressure as the MCP355 or MCP35X, making it less suitable for a large loop.
My Vote: A single MCP350 using low restriction water blocks and running the GPU blocks in parallel if you ever get GPU blocks.

Reservoir/Top: XSPC Premium Acrylic Reservoir for DDC's or Whatever res you want.
Explanation: XSPC res/top for DDC's will work with an MCP350 or MCP355, I believe an MCP35X too, but don't quite me on that. It'll give a nice performance boost as well as add a reservoir to your loop to easily add water/coolant.

Radiators: MCR-220-QP & RX120 & RX240
Explanation: XSPC RS240 radiators are mediocre radiators. They aren't the best performers, but they are thin. But, a great radiator that's just as thin are Swiftech MCR-220-QP's. This would be the perfect radiator to put at the top of your case. Better performer than an RS240, and just as thin. The other 2 radiators are self explanatory, great rads for a good price that suite your needs perfectly, though you could switch out the RX120 for a thinner MCR-120-QP.

CPU Water Blocks: XSPC Rasa, XSPC Raystorm, Koolance CPU-370
Explanation: XSPC Rasa is a great price/performance block, though it adds a fair amount of restriction to the loop. XSPC Raystorm is the best block on the market, being very very low restriction, low cost, and an amazing performer, only con is it looks like a kids toy with the acrylic on it that I highly dislike. Koolance CPU-370, another very low restriction block and another great performer, it looks amazing too, but it is the most expensive of the three. It isn't the best performing block, but it's up there in the ranks, being one of the best.
My Vote: XSPC Raystorm if you don't mind the acrylic.

Coolant: Distilled Water
Explanation: Coolant with dyes are frowned upon. The dye usually splits from the water after a few months and can clog up water blocks, leading to a real messy and painful cleanup. Plus coolant costs a lot of money, and in most cases temperatures can actually be worse than straight distilled water.

Fans: These are up to you depending on how much you want to spend. Personally, I only use Scythe Gentle Typhoon's, but they're VERY expensive. Other great yet cheap radiator fans are Yate Loon's or Cooler Master Sickleflow/R4's. Both of those are sleeve bearing fans, so eventually their bearings will start to go bad and become very noisy, but they will last a few years before that happens.

Tubing: Primochill LRT 1/2" ID or 7/16" ID
Explanation: Primochill has great tubing. Looks great, cuts great, comes in a variety of colors, etc. I use 1/2" ID for ease of installation and removal of tubing, but 7/16" ID will provide a better seal and insure there won't be leaks.

Clamps: Stainless Steel worm clamps or Koolance clamps
Explanation: Plastic clamps are junk. They're hard to remove, they don't put a ton of pressure on the tubing, and, well, metal will always be superior to plastic.

Extras: Silver KillCoil
Explanation: Adding this with distilled water ensures that algae and bacterial growth doesn't happen inside of your loop, just stick it in a reservoir and you're done.


I may have missed a tiny detail here or there, but I spent enough time typing this all up .
truly an epic post sir! +rep!
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post #4 of 16
My only other suggestion is to use compression fittings instead of barbs, they look cleaner and are just as secure.

If you need a thin radiator, check out the new XSPC EX series. It performs somewhere between an RS and RX.
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post #5 of 16
wow.. all i can say after all that is.."come to the dark side luke" http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-56k-fail.html

get your parts..you'll need a danner 9.5..couple of $2 2 in showerheads..a good screen prefilter..and all that other stuff oh..but you DO get sub- ambient temps..and i highly suggest a raystorm cpu block.and.regular old barbs with double zip-ties
 
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post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
My only other suggestion is to use compression fittings instead of barbs, they look cleaner and are just as secure.

If you need a thin radiator, check out the new XSPC EX series. It performs somewhere between an RS and RX.
I planned on using comperssion fittings ill look into the ex rad's, thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmuckley View Post
wow.. all i can say after all that is.."come to the dark side luke" http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-56k-fail.html

get your parts..you'll need a danner 9.5..couple of $2 2 in showerheads..a good screen prefilter..and all that other stuff oh..but you DO get sub- ambient temps..and i highly suggest a raystorm cpu block.and.regular old barbs with double zip-ties
I have two reasons for not going with a bong/evap set up.
A. I live in Kansas. Humidity can get very high here and in the summer I dont use the AC cus I'm a cheap bastard lol.
B. My needs for cooling are not that high, it would be overkill thank you though
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post #7 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
My only other suggestion is to use compression fittings instead of barbs, they look cleaner and are just as secure.

If you need a thin radiator, check out the new XSPC EX series. It performs somewhere between an RS and RX.
Compression fittings are nice, but I was under the assumption he was looking for as cheap as possible means, since he wanted a rasa kit.

As for EX radiators, I'd suggest them, but the only problem is there aren't enough reviews on them yet, let alone high quality ones. From current reviews, Swiftech's MCR series and XSPC's EX series seem to be very very close in performance and size, with the EX being slightly smaller in width/height, but a mm or so thicker than the MCR's. They're both the same price too.
    
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post #8 of 16
thanks fer being considerate..i live in fla..hey..the humidity here..lol but umm..comps are generally inside where the AC is..sometimes ..just so you know..they don't add much to the inside humidity..the cooling is fantastic ;x
 
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post #9 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmuckley View Post
thanks fer being considerate..i live in fla..hey..the humidity here..lol but umm..comps are generally inside where the AC is..sometimes ..just so you know..they don't add much to the inside humidity..the cooling is fantastic ;x
to clarify. I don't run my ac very much(well at all lol) so the humidity in my living room is the same as it is outside. Evaporation based cooling dose not work well at all in high humidity. That is why you don't see "Swamp" coolers used on house's in the mid west, they don't work lol. When I lived in So Cal we where able to use a "Swamp" cooler.
So, for me to use an evap cooler here would be a big effort to set up, and lots of effort to maintain for minimal results
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Gizmoto
(18 items)
 
They beat me:(
(15 items)
 
Home Server V1.0
(17 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom II x6 1040t @2.7Ghz ASRock 880GM-LE FX  AMD Radeon HD 4250 integrated graphics Micro Center(ADATA) 8Gb (2x4) 1333 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 640Gb Samsung SpinPoint F4 2Tb Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 ST3500641AS-RK 500Gb Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 ST3500641AS-RK 500Gb 
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
ASUS 24X DVD Burner ASUS 24X DVD Burner Stock AMD Cooler Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit 
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Linux Mint (VM) Linux Ubuntu (VM) Inland ILG-500R2 500w PSU DiabloTek Evo Mid-tower Case 
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post #10 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by `br4dz- View Post
Compression fittings are nice, but I was under the assumption he was looking for as cheap as possible means, since he wanted a rasa kit.

As for EX radiators, I'd suggest them, but the only problem is there aren't enough reviews on them yet, let alone high quality ones. From current reviews, Swiftech's MCR series and XSPC's EX series seem to be very very close in performance and size, with the EX being slightly smaller in width/height, but a mm or so thicker than the MCR's. They're both the same price too.
Cheap is good, but there are some things just not worth skimping on lol. I'll have to get some price's of all the stuff minus the fittings and see what my budget will allow
Gizmoto
(18 items)
 
They beat me:(
(15 items)
 
Home Server V1.0
(17 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom II x6 1040t @2.7Ghz ASRock 880GM-LE FX  AMD Radeon HD 4250 integrated graphics Micro Center(ADATA) 8Gb (2x4) 1333 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 640Gb Samsung SpinPoint F4 2Tb Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 ST3500641AS-RK 500Gb Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 ST3500641AS-RK 500Gb 
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
ASUS 24X DVD Burner ASUS 24X DVD Burner Stock AMD Cooler Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit 
OSOSPowerCase
Linux Mint (VM) Linux Ubuntu (VM) Inland ILG-500R2 500w PSU DiabloTek Evo Mid-tower Case 
Other
Inland IL internal card reader 
  hide details  
Reply
Gizmoto
(18 items)
 
They beat me:(
(15 items)
 
Home Server V1.0
(17 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom II x6 1040t @2.7Ghz ASRock 880GM-LE FX  AMD Radeon HD 4250 integrated graphics Micro Center(ADATA) 8Gb (2x4) 1333 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 640Gb Samsung SpinPoint F4 2Tb Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 ST3500641AS-RK 500Gb Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 ST3500641AS-RK 500Gb 
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
ASUS 24X DVD Burner ASUS 24X DVD Burner Stock AMD Cooler Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit 
OSOSPowerCase
Linux Mint (VM) Linux Ubuntu (VM) Inland ILG-500R2 500w PSU DiabloTek Evo Mid-tower Case 
Other
Inland IL internal card reader 
  hide details  
Reply
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