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[Official] ASUS ROG Rampage IV X79 Owner's Club - Page 186

post #1851 of 9802
Looking at my setup does anyone have any advice on what kind of a loop I could do without doing the video cards right away. I figure I could put a rad in the bottom and top, the reservoir to the right of the mobo and the pump wherever it will fit. This case is so huge I think it would be stupid not to go full water. If I was going to stick with air i probably should have gone with a different case, but I really love this case.
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post #1852 of 9802
Quote:
Originally Posted by strong island 1 View Post

Looking at my setup does anyone have any advice on what kind of a loop I could do without doing the video cards right away. I figure I could put a rad in the bottom and top, the reservoir to the right of the mobo and the pump wherever it will fit. This case is so huge I think it would be stupid not to go full water. If I was going to stick with air i probably should have gone with a different case, but I really love this case.

I don't play games, so I don't have my GPU in the loop. What it comes down to in watercooling is how much rad you can squeeze into a given case. Sometimes, people will even mount their radiators externally, which is a matter of personal preference I suppose. The best advice I could give is to go into the case section here on OCN, find the 800D club thread and read thru it entirely. Look at what others have done and come up with some ideas that way. Come back here and ask "hey, what do you guys think about this setup" for example.

When it comes to watercooling our beloved RIVE, you are going to find alot of different opinions that will cloud what people are telling you. Some will say watercooling the board is not necessary, others will disagree. I say watercooling the VRMs has helped my overclock, and watercooling the PCH is not necessary at all.

In the case of the 3930K + X79, these put out a ton of power to be dissipated. I haven't looked at an 800D in a long time, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say you would need at least two rads to cool it properly.

Now, this next part may sound a little harsh, but it's meant to help.

I haven't seen you work on your overclock properly yet. 1.4V for 4.4Ghz is not right. You should start over, using my offset mode overclock settings (see post 1200 of this thread). Start it at stock, testing with 30 minutes of OCCT. Make a log of your VID, wattage and average coretemps for each run. Then up the multiplier by one, repeat adding vcore when necessary. You do not need any Extreeeeme settings to get even 4.9Ghz stable on this board. This is a quality board and the power management is very well done when set to optimized. Only then will you be able to stop and say "OK, this is where I'm temp limited and watercooling will help me go further".

Which leads me to the H100. The H100 is not a bad cooler, but the fans that ship with it just aren't up to the task. Here you can buy the first parts for you watercooling setup, get four GentleTyphoon AP15s. Put them on the rad of your H100 (2 push and 2 pull). In the future, if you do go to full-on watercooling, those fans will be your radiator fans anyway.

I just helped a guy here with temp problems on his H100. It turned out he had the PWM pump speed control connected to the CPU_FAN header and he also had CPU FAN Control enabled in BIOS. This caused the H100 pump to under-perform. Make sure your fan control is disabled in BIOS if you have it hooked up that way.
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post #1853 of 9802
Quote:
Originally Posted by ugotd8 View Post

I don't play games, so I don't have my GPU in the loop. What it comes down to in watercooling is how much rad you can squeeze into a given case. Sometimes, people will even mount their radiators externally, which is a matter of personal preference I suppose. The best advice I could give is to go into the case section here on OCN, find the 800D club thread and read thru it entirely. Look at what others have done and come up with some ideas that way. Come back here and ask "hey, what do you guys think about this setup" for example.
When it comes to watercooling our beloved RIVE, you are going to find alot of different opinions that will cloud what people are telling you. Some will say watercooling the board is not necessary, others will disagree. I say watercooling the VRMs has helped my overclock, and watercooling the PCH is not necessary at all.
In the case of the 3930K + X79, these put out a ton of power to be dissipated. I haven't looked at an 800D in a long time, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say you would need at least two rads to cool it properly.
Now, this next part may sound a little harsh, but it's meant to help.
I haven't seen you work on your overclock properly yet. 1.4V for 4.4Ghz is not right. You should start over, using my offset mode overclock settings (see post 1200 of this thread). Start it at stock, testing with 30 minutes of OCCT. Make a log of your VID, wattage and average coretemps for each run. Then up the multiplier by one, repeat adding vcore when necessary. You do not need any Extreeeeme settings to get even 4.9Ghz stable on this board. This is a quality board and the power management is very well done when set to optimized. Only then will you be able to stop and say "OK, this is where I'm temp limited and watercooling will help me go further".
Which leads me to the H100. The H100 is not a bad cooler, but the fans that ship with it just aren't up to the task. Here you can buy the first parts for you watercooling setup, get four GentleTyphoon AP15s. Put them on the rad of your H100 (2 push and 2 pull). In the future, if you do go to full-on watercooling, those fans will be your radiator fans anyway.
I just helped a guy here with temp problems on his H100. It turned out he had the PWM pump speed control connected to the CPU_FAN header and he also had CPU FAN Control enabled in BIOS. This caused the H100 pump to under-perform. Make sure your fan control is disabled in BIOS if you have it hooked up that way.

Not it's not harsh, I really really appreciate any time you take out of your day to give me advice. I guess it was a prettly stupid and general question. Sorry about that. I am going to get some ideas first and then I will come back and ask everyones advice.

To be totally honest this is my first build and I am still learning a lot, and the bios at first looked like a different language. I am trying to learn a little bit everyday but I am sure that I haven't worked my overclock properly.

Right now temps with H100 with Prime 95 at 1.4v at 4.5ghz gets to about mid 60's low 70's. I have it set up with just push fans as an exhaust at the top of my case. My room is very cool with the A/C so I am thinking about using it as an intake with push/pull fans so I can draw in some of the cooler air into my case instead of using the warm air from inside the case to cool the rad.

I do think I have a ton of space though for internal rads. I was going to take out the bottom hd slots and then the bottom will have a lot of room for a rad. I was also thinking of removing the hot swap bays and creating a better intake.

I have a lot of ideas but don't know where to start. I am going to read thru the 800d thread like you said to see what everyone else did and start there.
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post #1854 of 9802
Quote:
Originally Posted by ugotd8 View Post

I don't play games, so I don't have my GPU in the loop. What it comes down to in watercooling is how much rad you can squeeze into a given case. Sometimes, people will even mount their radiators externally, which is a matter of personal preference I suppose. The best advice I could give is to go into the case section here on OCN, find the 800D club thread and read thru it entirely. Look at what others have done and come up with some ideas that way. Come back here and ask "hey, what do you guys think about this setup" for example.
When it comes to watercooling our beloved RIVE, you are going to find alot of different opinions that will cloud what people are telling you. Some will say watercooling the board is not necessary, others will disagree. I say watercooling the VRMs has helped my overclock, and watercooling the PCH is not necessary at all.
In the case of the 3930K + X79, these put out a ton of power to be dissipated. I haven't looked at an 800D in a long time, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say you would need at least two rads to cool it properly.
Now, this next part may sound a little harsh, but it's meant to help.
I haven't seen you work on your overclock properly yet. 1.4V for 4.4Ghz is not right. You should start over, using my offset mode overclock settings (see post 1200 of this thread). Start it at stock, testing with 30 minutes of OCCT. Make a log of your VID, wattage and average coretemps for each run. Then up the multiplier by one, repeat adding vcore when necessary. You do not need any Extreeeeme settings to get even 4.9Ghz stable on this board. This is a quality board and the power management is very well done when set to optimized. Only then will you be able to stop and say "OK, this is where I'm temp limited and watercooling will help me go further".
Which leads me to the H100. The H100 is not a bad cooler, but the fans that ship with it just aren't up to the task. Here you can buy the first parts for you watercooling setup, get four GentleTyphoon AP15s. Put them on the rad of your H100 (2 push and 2 pull). In the future, if you do go to full-on watercooling, those fans will be your radiator fans anyway.
I just helped a guy here with temp problems on his H100. It turned out he had the PWM pump speed control connected to the CPU_FAN header and he also had CPU FAN Control enabled in BIOS. This caused the H100 pump to under-perform. Make sure your fan control is disabled in BIOS if you have it hooked up that way.

Thanks a lot for that link about the H100, I just read thru the whole thread. One of your posts in that thread I just read which was -

"One thing to keep in mind is that a setting of auto for offset vcore does NOT equal zero. Always use plus or minus at least .005."

I think this was a great tip for me because I am using auto with offset right now. I am going to go into the bios now and start to work on my voltage a bit to see if I can lower it. I am also going to turn off the CPU fan control.

Thanks a lot for all your help.
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post #1855 of 9802
h
Edited by strong island 1 - 7/3/12 at 9:51pm
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post #1856 of 9802
Quote:
Originally Posted by ugotd8 View Post


In the case of the 3930K + X79, these put out a ton of power to be dissipated. I haven't looked at an 800D in a long time, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say you would need at least two rads to cool it properly.
Now, this next part may sound a little harsh, but it's meant to help.
I haven't seen you work on your overclock properly yet. 1.4V for 4.4Ghz is not right. You should start over, using my offset mode overclock settings (see post 1200 of this thread). Start it at stock, testing with 30 minutes of OCCT. Make a log of your VID, wattage and average coretemps for each run. Then up the multiplier by one, repeat adding vcore when necessary. You do not need any Extreeeeme settings to get even 4.9Ghz stable on this board. This is a quality board and the power management is very well done when set to optimized. Only then will you be able to stop and say "OK, this is where I'm temp limited and watercooling will help me go further".
Which leads me to the H100. The H100 is not a bad cooler, but the fans that ship with it just aren't up to the task. Here you can buy the first parts for you watercooling setup, get four GentleTyphoon AP15s. Put them on the rad of your H100 (2 push and 2 pull). In the future, if you do go to full-on watercooling, those fans will be your radiator fans anyway.
I just helped a guy here with temp problems on his H100. It turned out he had the PWM pump speed control connected to the CPU_FAN header and he also had CPU FAN Control enabled in BIOS. This caused the H100 pump to under-perform. Make sure your fan control is disabled in BIOS if you have it hooked up that way.

Those are great tips Ugotd8. I just got the RIVE / 3930k / H100 and need some work on my OC. Im going to try your offset settings. Thanks
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post #1857 of 9802
Wow I can't believe that just happened. I followed ugotd8's advice and changed +offset voltage from auto to .005 and my load voltage on prime95 blend went from 1.4v down to 1.32 volts. My temps were hitting about high 60's sometimes 70's and now during the same time in prime95 were at low 50's. I only ran it for about 20 min because I wanted to post how much of a difference it made. I'm going to run it for a little longer now. I was getting fustrated because everytime I got a BSOD it corrupted my windows install so I stopped tweaking for awhile. I have installed windows already 6 times in about 6 weeks. If I start getting BSOD's should I just raise the offset in increments of .005? Thanks again for the help.
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post #1858 of 9802
Quote:
Originally Posted by strong island 1 View Post

Wow I can't believe that just happened. I followed ugotd8's advice and changed +offset voltage from auto to .005 and my load voltage on prime95 blend went from 1.4v down to 1.32 volts. My temps were hitting about high 60's sometimes 70's and now during the same time in prime95 were at low 50's. I only ran it for about 20 min because I wanted to post how much of a difference it made. I'm going to run it for a little longer now. I was getting fustrated because everytime I got a BSOD it corrupted my windows install so I stopped tweaking for awhile. I have installed windows already 6 times in about 6 weeks. If I start getting BSOD's should I just raise the offset in increments of .005? Thanks again for the help.

Good news. Assuming you set the other voltages (VCCSA, VTT and PLL) to approx what I had (and not auto) then yes, you will just bump the offset mode vcore up +.005. Also, that is assuming your BSOD is a 101. If you begin to get 124s, that can be unrelated to vcore and VTT/VCCSA may need to come up a little.
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post #1859 of 9802
Quote:
Originally Posted by ugotd8 View Post

Good news. Assuming you set the other voltages (VCCSA, VTT and PLL) to approx what I had (and not auto) then yes, you will just bump the offset mode vcore up +.005. Also, that is assuming your BSOD is a 101. If you begin to get 124s, that can be unrelated to vcore and VTT/VCCSA may need to come up a little.

I'm barely beginning to OC my 3930k and i dont want jump up to your settings @ 4.9ghz yet. Where is a good starting point @4.3ghz?

Also anyones input on H100 fans turn up put of Haf X case vs down. Ive heard down is better to help cool the VRMs but wouldn't that be blowing hot air on them?
Edited by Swolern - 7/3/12 at 11:06pm
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Originally Posted by ugotd8 View Post

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Originally Posted by ugotd8 View Post

After a brief non-scientific testing period, I'd say yes. I have the PCH fan profile set to silent mode in the BIOS and I just like having a fan on there. YMMV of course... thumb.gif


When I was checking out the pch fan, I saw the condition of the die and it was pathetic. The surface was horrendous so I threw on some thermal pads, nice ones too 7w/mk which has got to be ten times better than paste on the useless setup they had on their given the horrid uneven surface of the die covering.


So far, well nvm I finished it lol. Just waiting on another 10ft of primoflex so I can move the nova 10 ft away from me lol! This pick is before final assembly when I was leak testing the gpus.


450


Leak testing gpus after I disassembled them and vinegar bathing them.


450


Oh forgot to explain why I soaked the blocks in vinegar! Good job EK. Brand new block lol@!!


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Edited by tsm106 - 7/3/12 at 11:21pm
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