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New builder, need advice, 1920x1080 gaming

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Hello,

Monitor: HANNspree By Hanns-G HF225DPB Black 21.5" Full HD WideScreen LCD Monitor w/Speakers
Operating Sys: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM

Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor HDZ965FBGMBOX
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3 AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
Graphics: SAPPHIRE 100312-3SR Radeon HD 6950 Dirt3 Edition 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
Case: NZXT GAMMA Classic Series GAMA-001BK Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Hard Drive: Western Digital RE4 WD5003ABYX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Power Supply: APEX AL-D500EXP 500W ATX12V Power Supply
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
DVD Writer:ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM

I want to be able to game at 1920x1080. For older games I want to be able to put the graphics settings on high at 1920x1080, but for newer games like Battlefield 3 I am content with putting the graphics on medium or even all the way on low. I just want to be able to maintain 1920x1080 resolution with high frame rate regardless of graphics settings.

Also, my room can get kind of hot - like 83 degrees F. For this reason I chose AMD, since it is cheaper and cooler than Intel. Do you think this system will be safe at this room temp?

I don't plan on over clocking or anything. I just chose a bunch of parts from Newegg (everything above is from Newegg) that had 5 star overall reviews, and I believe everything is compatible.

What do you think?
post #2 of 10
Well the 6950 should be able to do that with the 6950. as for the temps AMD may run cooler but they have to run cooler pretty much all AMD chips have a lower Tmax than Intel chips. so really it doesn't really affect there handling of hot ambient temps. you definitely want an aftermarket cooler because the stock cooler while it looks good is not that good at cooling. but you can't argue the price. It should be Ok just keep an eye on your 6950 I have heard that they can get hot.
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post #3 of 10
Everything looks pretty good however please consider the following:

A 5 egg review history does not guarantee a quality product. Most of the items on your list are great, but that APEX PSU has had a lucky pass with 5 eggs there and probably doesn't deserve it. The most likely reason for the 5 egg review is that it has been used in a lot of systems with low power demands. APEX also likely does better quality checking than some other brands, resulting in less DOAs. That said, you won't see any enthusiast computer builders using that PSU.

The RE4 drives from WD I believe are normally market towards enterprise applications. Which means they may be priced a little higher than alternatives. Considering the massively inflated HD prices right now due to flooding in Thailand, you're probably going to wind up spending over $100 on a HD regardless, so maybe an enterprise rated drive isn't such a bad idea. Keep in mind though, that there are some 500GB drives still available for well under $100 that would probably serve you very well. Again, egg ratings aren't always a great indicator, almost all hard drives float around the 4 egg mark.

Modern AMD CPUs do not run any "cooler" than modern Intel CPUs. In fact, quite the opposite would be more accurate, but temperatures have nothing to do with thermal energy or efficiency. As it stands currently, a sandy bridge CPU is roughly twice as energy efficient per instruction as an AMD deneb/thuban/bulldozer. Intel CPU temperature reporting is handled differently, so they report higher temps, but this has nothing to do with how much thermal energy must be dissipated.
     
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post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies. I thought about what you two wrote and decided to make some changes. Please tell me what you think:

DVD writer: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

Case: Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042

Hard drive: Western Digital Caviar Black WD7501AALS 750GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive -Bare Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136283

Monitor: ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor W/Speakers
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236052

Motherboard: ASUS Crosshair IV Formula AM3 AMD 890FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131644

Graphics card: GIGABYTE GV-N460OC-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125333

Power supply: CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006

Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314

Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor HDZ965FBGMBOX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727

Operating system: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986


I don't plan to overclock this. That's why I decided to stay with the cooler that comes with the CPU. Do you think I'll be ok?
post #5 of 10
Although Intel might run a little bit hotter than AMD chips, a good aftermarket cooler would pretty much negate the negatives of the higher temperature. IMO pick up the i5-2500k. It is one of the best gaming chips at the moment, and a LGA 1155 board will be compatible with Ivybridge chips in the future should there be a need to upgrade. My chip runs as low as 24C idle, which is around 75F. This was during the summer where my room temps were around the high 80s. Highest idle temps i've seen was around 34C, and since BF3 is more gpu intensive, highest temps I have seen playing BF3 is mid 50Cs. My chip is overclocked to 4.5ghz like every other i5-2500k also.

In any case, definitely pick up a aftermarket cooler. Some of the most recommended ones are the CM Hyper 212+ for low price and the Noctua NH-D14 for a higher price.

A 650 PSU is enough for that card. In fact, a 650 can support up to SLI 560 Ti, so you won't need 750 until you plan to SLI 570+.
    
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post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
I keep getting caught up in the "If I spend $50 more I will get a lot better performance!" problem... Before I know it I'm spending $500 more on a kick-ass system. I am now trying to focus only on my needs and getting hardware that can handle that.

I decided to go with a SSD instead of a bigger HDD. Two reasons for this:

1) I only play a few games and use the web so I don't need a lot of storage.
2) Prices of HDD are so high right now because of factory flooding.
3) I can always get a HDD in the future if I need it which I feel I wont

But one thing I am confused about is if the SSD will be compatible with my motherboard and case. I changed my mind about the motherboard from the above posts. This is what I'm looking at:

Case: Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042

Motherboard: ASRock M3A770DE AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157176

SSD: Intel 320 Series SSDSA2CW120G3K5 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167050

From my understanding, my motherboard supports SATA 3Gb/s, which I THINK is the same as SATA II. Am I right?
But the SSD has a form factor of 2.5", which my case does not have support for. However, I am finding it very hard to find a case that has 2.5" drive support in its specs, so I am skeptical.

As for the PSU, I decided to downgrade a little as suggested by bill above, to this: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

It is still more powerful for my needs, but I went with it anyways because:
1) I heard good things about the CORSAIR brand.
2) I can upgrade graphics card in the future if I need.

And one final important thing. I never built a computer before. I watched a long video on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUY0tP5jYIo, which I found very helpful. Basically by watching that video I went from knowing nothing to feeling I can actually do it. Do you think, that with that video, coupled with the manuals that will come with the products, that I will be able to do this on my own easy?
post #7 of 10
Yep, the SSD definitely works as your board support SATA II which is what your SSD does. But, I would definitely pay the extra to get a 128Gb M4. for twice the Read Speeds, But you mobo doesnt support SATA III ggrrr....

I wouldnt worry about mounting your SSD as you can always use tape to mount it in your case, since unlike a HDD, it has no moving parts whatsoever.

650W is good for 1 6950, 2 is doable but is pushing it. But it is definitely enough for any single GPU card, I ran a GTX 580 off a HX650W.

There are videos of 10 year old kids building their own PCs. They have the backing of their dads, you have the backing of OCN which is 10x better biggrin.gif You can do it without a cinch, just dont get static and water on your stuff and you are fine. Just be careful with your CPU (the most nerve breaking part in building your first PC imo)

There are tons of PC build guides I used before, but there are very few reliable ones. The one I used was

Edited by sloppyjoe123 - 11/15/11 at 8:42am
    
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post #8 of 10
i would change the graphics card from 460 to 560
for only a few bucks more i just checked newegg and for example
thi one is really only a few bucks more http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500225
and it is quite a better card

edit:
as for psu
xfx core edition psu-s are greatly appreciated, as they are seasonic inside, and many recommend them, i havent had one, but would definitely like one
and would take and day over those corsair psu-s
except those extra expensive 1000+ W corsair psu-s which are really top grade

for example i'd recommend 550w xfx psu, that would be great for you

edit2:
here you can see consumption in wattage of some high end configurations as a whole - that includes whole system (without monitor)
http://forum.pcekspert.com/showpost.php?p=2011408&postcount=2
it is in croatian i know, but you don't have to read the details, the numbers and config is what matters:)
it is measured with wattmeter straight from the wall socket, that means how much power it draws from the wall
and then you know why you don't need beast of a power supply
honestly for single gpu 450W xfx would be more than enough
Edited by Deathclaw - 11/15/11 at 8:54am
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post #9 of 10
SSD should work with any board that has SATA ports. I agree with the above poster about the psu.

The ASROCK MB you chose doesn't have any vrm cooling and it looks like it's 4 phases, when you overclock it would have a pretty good chance of frying. I would look for something with more phases 8 or 10, with heatsinks on the vrm's. Possibly you might want to go with an am3+ mb but that wouldn't be necessary.

Putting together a PC isn't hard, but don't expect the manuals that come with the stuff to be right, I have quite often found that they were meant for an earlier version of what I bought when I bothered to look at them.
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post #10 of 10
I don't have an SSD myself. But couldn't you mount it regardless?
The advantage of SSDs is it's not mechanical so it doesn't matter where or how it's mounted (also doesn't generate that much heat)

You could ziptie it to the back of your motherboard tray (as Ive seen people do on this forum)

Or just screw it to one side of your 3.5" HDD cage.

Personally I have two 3.5" HDD screwed in on one side of my 5.25" bays cause the graphics card is so long.

If not you could always look for a 3.5 to 2.5 adapter.



Computer components are durable as hell. Just set it up on your motherboard's box. I wash my hands every now and then to discharge any static (I think that works).
Edited by SpiritGear - 11/15/11 at 9:07am
 
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