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[Official Guide] Modifying/Removing NVidia GPU Heat Spreader/IHS - Page 11

post #101 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

@maxbrando2000
I totally plan on reattaching mine if i were in need of rma.
Rage, nice job on that mod, that will get er done lol
@clayton
Your temps seem abit high for a H100 on a 560ti. Those are about 10-15c off what stock would give you imo. I think i posted my temps in my build log and i really needed to crank the voltage to get temps close to those using this mod. You should be more in the 50c range i would think if running stock-ish

I meant is it possible to solder on the ihs with a low temp solder
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post #102 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

@maxbrando2000

I totally plan on reattaching mine if i were in need of rma.

Rage, nice job on that mod, that will get er done lol

Thanks, I had to order some new thermal pads from Frozen CPU (which worked great) and mounted it back on. Fans are back an operational cooling the VRM's. Really tried to get the shroud back on but after hacking one to pieces, it just wasn't going to fit.
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post #103 of 257
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxbrando2000 View Post

I meant is it possible to solder on the ihs with a low temp solder

Why? your going to kill the chip. whats wrong with thermal paste???? You can try this on a dead chip if you want but i'm pretty sure it won't help at all and 99.9% sure it'd kill the thing...not a good idea. trust me.

at a 21C case temp right now my chip idles @ 24C and under full load in BF3 it reaches 50C... You won't do anything better going to a solder. Besides, I'm not even sure it'd bond to the chip surface, and I don't think you want it to...The nice thing with the thermal paste is you can remove the IHS and get to the chip if you need to change something, or if you didn't sand the edges of the IHS enough. It's easy to work with and basically your not going to have anything better with a solder...


And yes, problem with direct contact on the chip is clearance of the heatsink with the heatsinks on the VRAM... Like mine for instance, I can't have it in direct contact because the heatsink is already touching the VRAM heatsinks as it is... You won't be able to make it work unless you plan on bending the heatpipes on the heatsink...which I guess you can do..your only moving it 2mm or so...but yea. Removing completely the IHS would be most beneficial for direct water cooling modded cards....
Edited by Cakewalk_S - 12/29/11 at 7:52pm
post #104 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxbrando2000 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

@maxbrando2000
I totally plan on reattaching mine if i were in need of rma.
Rage, nice job on that mod, that will get er done lol
@clayton
Your temps seem abit high for a H100 on a 560ti. Those are about 10-15c off what stock would give you imo. I think i posted my temps in my build log and i really needed to crank the voltage to get temps close to those using this mod. You should be more in the 50c range i would think if running stock-ish

I meant is it possible to solder on the ihs with a low temp solder

I don't think solder would be advisable. Theres semi permanent thermal cement that can be use to secure back on if needed.
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post #105 of 257
Im sure its possable but from what ive seen of how it is all layed out i would not suggest it. Those caps around the outer edge of the chip are very close to where the solder would have to be, one little smidge of solder goes where its not suppose to and you could short out the card or make removing overflow solder very difficult to remove from all the little pins around that chip which are held in solder also....scary

The paste used to attach the IHS is an epoxy from what was mentioned previous in this thread. I would attemp to mimic the original paste best i could. Perhaps a single dab of crazyglue on each of the corners or something else which could make removal easy if you find you dont like how it seated. Its a difficult reversal of this mod once done and if youve sanded down the bottom of the IHS to bring it closer to the chip (the intent of this mod really) solder would only raise it from the chip again if not higher than it was previous.

Just my two bits, i had this same thought when i did mine but never really followed though on it, guess i thought whats done is done at that point.
post #106 of 257
Thread Starter 
Edit:

I went ahead and cut the tether to flickr with my photos and have them directly in the thread now. So you can enjoy higher res photos. I also added an optional part to the reassembly section stating it is ok to run your card without the IHS completely. thumb.gif

Hope you guys enjoy it! I was running out of space on flickr....thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif
post #107 of 257
I was running out of room also. Deleted a few only to find my build log now has empty spaces....dub
post #108 of 257
Great job. Things like this deserve to be on OCN. I am so tempted to try this on my Asus 460 with the original DirectCU cooler. Dont have any temperature issues with it though. May get one of those new 560 448 core any then try this on my 460


Maybe you should patent this Cakewalk, before Apple does!

I vote for a sticky
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post #109 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

Edit:

I went ahead and cut the tether to flickr with my photos and have them directly in the thread now. So you can enjoy higher res photos. I also added an optional part to the reassembly section stating it is ok to run your card without the IHS completely. thumb.gif

Hope you guys enjoy it! I was running out of space on flickr....thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif
Excellent photos, far better than I'll ever be able to take!

Running the card without the IHS? Are you crazy?biggrin.gif
Well, I've never denied being crazy, and went ahead and delidded my 480's. Put the IHS's in a drawer and laughed at them.
I took a couple photos but will have to wait until next week to post them as the family took my camera's cable.

A good 10C average drop in load temps., for either card. I can only run one card at a time due to my current board spacing, but I have an M4E on the way to cure that.
But it gets better, my worst-case scenario is running Furmark in Xtreme Burn mode, with 8x MSAA, Dynamic Background, and Post FX enabled.
With the lids on, I hit 85C after 2 1/2 minutes. After delidding, my Zotac 480 maxed at 65C after 6 minutes. I just finished the EVGA 480 today, and it maxed at 59C in the same test. (see edit below)

EDIT Dec. 31st:
I re-did the thermal paste (MX-2) on the Zotac 480, and changed the spacers on the heatsink screws to the same as I had on the EVGA 480, they're a hard plastic vs the softer rubber spacers I first used.
Same ambient, I re-ran Furmark and the card maxed out at 60C. after 6 minutes.
That's a much closer result to the EVGA 480, the original result's 6C. difference seemed out of whack. It was.

Regular gaming now is in the 40's for me, I was in the 50's before the mod. OCCT produces a similar temp. drop to my gaming temps., about 10C.
But I don't quite get the low idle temps. that you and Cravin are, maybe just a 5C drop down to 25C at best.
I think Cravin puts his case in the fridge overnite:D

It's a very worthwhile mod, when you see how thick and heavy the IHS is, it just makes sense to do away with that extra piece, and allow the cooler to have maximum effect with direct contact to the die.

But even with the IHS lapped and repasted, and re-attached to the gpu, the results are still excellent.

Thanks again for the great guide and photos, it helped me to overcome the fear of delidding:D
A well-deserved Rep+thumb.gif

Edit:
Here are a couple shots I took during the "operation", apologies for the poor quality.
IMG_4382.jpg

IMG_4387.jpg

A photo of the completed cards:

IMG_5420GTX480SLI.jpg
Edited by DerComissar - 1/8/12 at 3:49pm
    
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post #110 of 257
Oh... I think I understand now, i was looking at my card, and i didn't realize until now that the silicon that the chip is on is raised over the main chip, i was trying to wedge a razor in there and it was pretty solid, so i just decided to not do anything further.

Now that I understand, i'm gonna re-try this mod and hopefully see some positive results.

Portal 2 i'm running around 50°, crysis maxed is 70° ( with a corsair h100 mounted to it)

will post results later

ALSO. i was thinking of removing the ISH completely, and laying my cooler directly on top of it, and using a very light coat of liquid electrical tape over the transitors to insure that nothing shorts the board.

Although potentially, the liquid elec tape could melt, but i don't think 70°c is enough to melt the stuff. (as i've used it for several high heat applications )

any other ideas welcome.
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