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[Official Guide] Modifying/Removing NVidia GPU Heat Spreader/IHS - Page 17

post #161 of 257
this is really cool...

but is there anything wrong with leaving the IHS off as long as the block u put on it doesnt touch anything else? maybe some rubber or tape to keep it from shorting anything?
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post #162 of 257
Thread Starter 
Yes, its completely safe but you need to be careful of a few things that I need to add to the guide. First, if you put too much pressure or apply too much pressure on 1 side of the cooler before you secure it, you could run the risk of cracking/crushing the die. It's REALLY important that you apply very very even pressure when applying the cooler. The chance of shorting out card is very unlikely, the die is raised from the transistors and if you want some extra protection, you could use like epoxy or liquid electrical tape, its just gonna be a hot area for tape.

I'm comfortable with taking off the IHS on my 580, its just going to take a little bit of working cutting the PCB plate to get it to fit. That's my other concern for doin this mod with a PCB plate.
post #163 of 257
Thread Starter 
The long awaited results of FINALLY removing the IHS on my GTX580. What a beast of a GPU die...
The absolute LAST thing I wanted to do was foul up my card so I was super careful in removing the IHS. It seemed the top of the IHS on one side was lifted a bit and I could easily wedge the carpet blade into the gap with a few taps. I wedge it about to the depth of where the cut is on the blade. Then I put another blade on the side of it and tapped so it basically just pried up the rest of it. And man, just like my 560, the IHS literally POPS off the chip. When your tapping you'll hear a crack and the IHS will pop off the die.
Notice there's 3 air bubbles very easily seen in the thermal paste and you can see the thicker areas of the paste in the IHS too. I figured it'd be worth removing the IHS since the 620 doesn't fully cover the heatspreader, so once I get the PCB plate cut for the 620 to fit, the contact on the die should be absolutely flawless. Now if I only had better thermal paste than this ceramique crap...

Notice the screw holes filled with thermal paste on the 620...it doesn't fully cover it....(don't worry, I've got a 40G tube of the thermal paste, its cheap)

Notice how bad those air bubbles are. And man, this better work after this mod again..lol

I went ahead real quick and sanded down the edges of the IHS to give you guys that want to keep the heatspreader on some idea of what it should look like and what your really actually sanding. Notice before there was black epoxy, notice its gone and the IHS is sanded down and there's copper showing...

Alright, off to bed, I haven't been up this late since I started my new job....I'll mod the PCB plate tomorrow and then I should have everything put back together and some benchmarks for you guys sometime tomorrow afternoon!


First result:

-Full loop of heaven3.0
When I first booted the rig my GPU fan ramped up and when I ran heaven it ramped up to 90C in a few seconds...!!!!!!!! I took her back out and realized that there's these spokes from the PCB plate that keep the outer shell in alignment and that one of the metal spikes was hitting up against the antec 620's mounting bracket, preventing 1 side of it from actually putting pressure on the 620 onto the die. I also put too much thermal paste on the first time. My Afterburner SS is of the 2nd mount with a little blob size of thermal paste on the die and also cutting that spike that was preventing the bracket from working properly. I haven't put it all back together but I now know I've got the temps I'm looking for. Ready to fold this puppy to death or game at max voltage.
I also when ahead and used some thermal pad I had leftover from my laptop and replaced some thermal pads on the VRM's so I should get better heat transfer to the PCB plate. Overall the mod, once again, was a great success!
Edited by Cakewalk_S - 8/4/12 at 9:44am
post #164 of 257
Great work, now have 33C idle 50C burn in 28,7C flow, many thanks
post #165 of 257
Excellent mod. I was hitting 90°+ temps on both 580's, even at stock, so this mod seemed really appealing. Decided to take the plunge, open one up and give it a go. It all went relatively smoothly (other than filing a couple parts down to the copper on the die, which I wasn't too concerned about), and sure enough, took 10° off my idle, and about 15-20° off my load on this one card at stock, and I'm willing to bet that there's still some room for improvement.

Unfortunately, since I'm still running with stock cooling, I don't have the option of having the heatsink directly on the core, and have to use the heatspreader (at least not without cutting the plastic casing to allow for it). I didn't bother sanding the part of the IHS, because it's so small I figured it would be impossible to get it actually flat while the sides still existed. I then started thinking that the sides no longer actually serve any purpose if you're not gluing the IHS back into place, so I considered that it might be worth while to completely sand those down until they are gone, which would then allow to lap the part of the IHS that touches the core. Do you think that would be worthwhile? Alternatively, if I am correct in thinking this, it would also probably be quicker and easier to just file the sides down using a dremel, instead of having to sand it down.

I do think, however, the weakest link is the top of the core itself. I did the razor/light test, and found that the top of the core is slightly curved, raised towards the middle. I started to try to finely sand it down, but decided that was going a lil too far, and stopped.

Anyways, even if I don't get any more out of this mod, I'm quite happy with where it's at. Thank you very much for putting in the effort for this guide.
Edited by DJRK - 9/16/12 at 10:59am
post #166 of 257
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJRK View Post

Excellent mod. I was hitting 90°+ temps on both 580's, even at stock, so this mod seemed really appealing. Decided to take the plunge, open one up and give it a go. It all went relatively smoothly (other than filing a couple parts down to the copper on the die, which I wasn't too concerned about), and sure enough, took 10° off my idle, and about 15-20° off my load on this one card at stock, and I'm willing to bet that there's still some room for improvement.
Unfortunately, since I'm still running with stock cooling, I don't have the option of having the heatsink directly on the core, and have to use the heatspreader (at least not without cutting the plastic casing to allow for it). I didn't bother sanding the part of the IHS, because it's so small I figured it would be impossible to get it actually flat while the sides still existed. I then started thinking that the sides no longer actually serve any purpose if you're not gluing the IHS back into place, so I considered that it might be worth while to completely sand those down until they are gone, which would then allow to lap the part of the IHS that touches the core. Do you think that would be worthwhile? Alternatively, if I am correct in thinking this, it would also probably be quicker and easier to just file the sides down using a dremel, instead of having to sand it down.
I do think, however, the weakest link is the top of the core itself. I did the razor/light test, and found that the top of the core is slightly curved, raised towards the middle. I started to try to finely sand it down, but decided that was going a lil too far, and stopped.
Anyways, even if I don't get any more out of this mod, I'm quite happy with where it's at. Thank you very much for putting in the effort for this guide.

You do realize that sanding the actual die will likely lead to sanding off like a couple hundred transistors once you sand off the protective layer on top right? I believe the top layer has some type of epoxy coating to prevent the chance of sorting out, plus I've seen how the silicon waifers are made and they seem to pour solutions on the top of it when its spinning. The core should be perfectly flat anyway, or at least on my 580 it is... but whatever you do DONT sand that! You'll destroy your card for sure and it's also perfectly smooth, glass basically.

It'd take too long to sand off the edges completely. Just sand them enough so that the bare copper is showing and there's no more of the black epoxy on it. Should give you plenty of cooling. You should do the antec 620 mod. My 580 @ 1.163v maxes at 52C...it's awesome!

Glad you had a successful mod!
post #167 of 257
I didn't think hammering a razor blade into my video card would be as stressful as it was.




I replaced the crusty dried up paste with some mx-2, superglued the integrated heat spreader back on, and assembled the rest of the heatsink. It was absolutely worth it, >10C better temps! To be fair, this card was running pretty hot (over 90c in Unigine), so there was a lot of room for improvement.

Thanks Cakewalk!


Tip: don't hammer the corner of the razor blade in, if you notice in the second picture I've scratched up small portions of the chip next to the die.
Edited by FlighterPilot - 2/17/13 at 1:59am
post #168 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlighterPilot View Post

Nice! netted me 10C better temps at load on my 580!
Wow you have followed cakewalk_S mod and success!! thumb.gif great mate.

+Rep for Cakewalk_S for this awesome mod thumb.gifthumb.gif
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post #169 of 257
So I've read every ones comments here an it doesn't seem like anyone has destroyed their cards yet. So LEMME BE THE FIRST!

I was attempting this one 2x gtx 560s adding antec 620s to them. The first one I wasn't to sure the amount of pressure required to get the IHS off. And for the life of me couldn't get that godamn razor in. So i decided to see if I couldn't wedge the corner in to see if I couldn't get it started. While wedging it is I unknowingly put a small gouge in the PCB of the gpu chip (not the die). But I grew some balls an decided to follow the damn instructions like I was told. Put it in there long ways, used a flat head and a rubber hammer, two or three taps later it just POPS off with extraordinary ease.

So I go to remove the second gtx's IHS, now having previous experience I have it safely off in 3-4 taps. no problem at all.

Now to lap the antec head an attach it to the die.

Everything appeared to go off without a hitch. but unbeknownst to be the first cards water block had popped two of those stupid ass zip-ties (dumbest idea ever to me... but I thought "hey, everyone elses is working fine").

So. I start everything up (keep in mind I don't know the zip ties are broken) Load up GPU tweak check the temp at idle. Amazing. 25C. Go to the bottom to select GPU #2. Not there. Why, this is certainly odd.

Power off, check everything. Oh no... the water block popped off. Lemme remove you an fix you. Maybe you got to hot an shutoff. Replaced **** zip-ties. Block firmly attached to the die. Plug it in, attach SLI cables an power cables. Boot, and now success.

Now it had me worried. I removed it again an check everything twice. Couldn't find anything but the gouge in the PCB. but it was only 1mm on the side an barely in the copper (top layer I assumed was the CG , idk though)

Then I noticed I may have damaged a few leads while prying, Grabbed the ole MM an check them. By god they're connected. well then

MY QUESTION TO YOU.

WHAT THE F**K COULD I HAVE DONE?!?!
post #170 of 257
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaian View Post

So I've read every ones comments here an it doesn't seem like anyone has destroyed their cards yet. So LEMME BE THE FIRST!
I was attempting this one 2x gtx 560s adding antec 620s to them. The first one I wasn't to sure the amount of pressure required to get the IHS off. And for the life of me couldn't get that godamn razor in. So i decided to see if I couldn't wedge the corner in to see if I couldn't get it started. While wedging it is I unknowingly put a small gouge in the PCB of the gpu chip (not the die). But I grew some balls an decided to follow the damn instructions like I was told. Put it in there long ways, used a flat head and a rubber hammer, two or three taps later it just POPS off with extraordinary ease.
So I go to remove the second gtx's IHS, now having previous experience I have it safely off in 3-4 taps. no problem at all.
Now to lap the antec head an attach it to the die.
Everything appeared to go off without a hitch. but unbeknownst to be the first cards water block had popped two of those stupid ass zip-ties (dumbest idea ever to me... but I thought "hey, everyone elses is working fine").
So. I start everything up (keep in mind I don't know the zip ties are broken) Load up GPU tweak check the temp at idle. Amazing. 25C. Go to the bottom to select GPU #2. Not there. Why, this is certainly odd.
Power off, check everything. Oh no... the water block popped off. Lemme remove you an fix you. Maybe you got to hot an shutoff. Replaced **** zip-ties. Block firmly attached to the die. Plug it in, attach SLI cables an power cables. Boot, and now success.
Now it had me worried. I removed it again an check everything twice. Couldn't find anything but the gouge in the PCB. but it was only 1mm on the side an barely in the copper (top layer I assumed was the CG , idk though)
Then I noticed I may have damaged a few leads while prying, Grabbed the ole MM an check them. By god they're connected. well then
MY QUESTION TO YOU.
WHAT THE F**K COULD I HAVE DONE?!?!

First, you probably should watch your language on the forum, I'm not a mod but I'm just warning you that its not a good idea to flame on any forum, especially this one. Second, you probably killed your chip. You take a chunk out of the PCB and its probably toast. I'm not sure what is all in the PCB material around the die but my guess is it has copper leads everywhere on it. Try just booting from 1 card, take both out and try the bad one. Did you check the die for scorch marks? I would imagine it would smoke if it actually overheated and killed itsself but I don't think it would. You probably did some sort of physical damage to the area around the chip. Its super easy to kill something from the edges of the PCB, that's why its imperative to have the razerblade on the flat side of the IHS...
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