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[Official Guide] Modifying/Removing NVidia GPU Heat Spreader/IHS - Page 19

post #181 of 257
Just like the guy above, I remembered this thread and now I wanna do this mod to my 580. I REALLY want to, but don't have the strength to take my card from my current loop for a hope of 5C difference and completely loosing the card. What do you guys say? Go for it on the 580? If this goes south I will be gaming on IGPU for some time until I could maybe get some cheap card. It's just so tempting, yet so terrifying.
post #182 of 257
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MastaBlasta View Post

Saw this thread forever ago, but now that I got my 680 I am going to start on ONE of my 560s, as it is now sitting next to the case I need to get around to finishing. So if this works I am going to do the other one as well. And if that works I am going to try I my 680....no wait scratch that no I am not. I am good with sticking a 80 on it and calling it a day, even that is pushing it. You sir are truly an innovator and a madman to boot. Taking apart brand new hardware and performing probably fatal procedures on it. All my beans to you.

GTX 6** Series cards are made now without a heat spreader. Your mod is already done...lol


Quote:
Originally Posted by RussianHak View Post

Just like the guy above, I remembered this thread and now I wanna do this mod to my 580. I REALLY want to, but don't have the strength to take my card from my current loop for a hope of 5C difference and completely loosing the card. What do you guys say? Go for it on the 580? If this goes south I will be gaming on IGPU for some time until I could maybe get some cheap card. It's just so tempting, yet so terrifying.


I did my 580, WAY easier than the 560 I had. I could even visually see there was a gap on the corner of the heatspreader between that and the PCB. Easily fit the razerblade into the IHS and poped right off. Only thing is if you have a reference 580 you'll need to cut the PCB plate around the chip in order to fit a watercooler.
post #183 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

GTX 6** Series cards are made now without a heat spreader. Your mod is already done...lol
I did my 580, WAY easier than the 560 I had. I could even visually see there was a gap on the corner of the heatspreader between that and the PCB. Easily fit the razerblade into the IHS and poped right off. Only thing is if you have a reference 580 you'll need to cut the PCB plate around the chip in order to fit a watercooler.

I kinda, maybe, already, have a Full Block on it biggrin.gif
post #184 of 257
Well thats nice the 680 already has no ihs. I am going to start the 560 this weekend, probably removing it entirely (the ihs) coating the transistors in liquid etape and calling it a day. Before I put closed loops on them they ran at 99c at 100% load, activating the core throttling and they sounded like airplane engines.
post #185 of 257
Ok, I think I need to undertake this on at least one of my cards. Little background. Single 560ti twin frozr II card runs great, get new 560ti twin frozr II with some minor but obvious board changes. Setup in SLI and new card runs hot, swap position temps improve a bit, but still high. Reseat with new TIM, no major improvement. Upgrade to twin Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo II's. Old card definitely runs cooler than the newer regardless of position in system, but both still run too hot in top slot. Build custom water cooling loop. New card hist 85c old card hits 54c during 3d Mark 11. Ran furmark on top card and it skyrocketed into the 90's in no time.

So to paraphrase, water cooled cards, top card getting water straight from a 240 rad in push pull is hitting 85c, card in parallel with it on loop is hitting 54c. Problem is that I had to use universal waterblocks and these glue on heatsinks from Arctic Accellero kits to the VRAM. How can I de-lid my card that looks like this? how am I to get the razor blade along the back side? Any tips or advice? Would heating the card up any with a heat gun aid in the IHS removal?

post #186 of 257
Thread Starter 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mavisky View Post

Ok, I think I need to undertake this on at least one of my cards. Little background. Single 560ti twin frozr II card runs great, get new 560ti twin frozr II with some minor but obvious board changes. Setup in SLI and new card runs hot, swap position temps improve a bit, but still high. Reseat with new TIM, no major improvement. Upgrade to twin Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo II's. Old card definitely runs cooler than the newer regardless of position in system, but both still run too hot in top slot. Build custom water cooling loop. New card hist 85c old card hits 54c during 3d Mark 11. Ran furmark on top card and it skyrocketed into the 90's in no time.

So to paraphrase, water cooled cards, top card getting water straight from a 240 rad in push pull is hitting 85c, card in parallel with it on loop is hitting 54c. Problem is that I had to use universal waterblocks and these glue on heatsinks from Arctic Accellero kits to the VRAM. How can I de-lid my card that looks like this? how am I to get the razor blade along the back side? Any tips or advice? Would heating the card up any with a heat gun aid in the IHS removal?


You should be fine, I always took off the IHS by having the razerblade on the side of the PCI slot, so like this

Sounds like ya need to delid it!
post #187 of 257
Ok, so breaking the seal from the one side should allow me to remove it cleanly? If so I'll probably get to work on draining my loop sometime this week then de-lid both of them.

I normally use Arctic silver 5 but does anyone have any idea if the Tim-Mate that swiftech ships with their waterblocks is electrically non-conductive? I know the arctic silver is or i'd use it since I'll probably go direct contact with the card going forward. Screw these heat spreaders.
post #188 of 257
Thread Starter 
You put the razerblade in 1 side, then once its in around 2-4mm and its wedged in there, you basically can pull up on the razerblade and the IHS literally should pop off, it'll make a seriously loud sound...lol if it didn't when your tapping the razerblade in first.
post #189 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

You put the razerblade in 1 side, then once its in around 2-4mm and its wedged in there, you basically can pull up on the razerblade and the IHS literally should pop off, it'll make a seriously loud sound...lol if it didn't when your tapping the razerblade in first.

Thanks, the original guide seemed a little thin on the "removing the IHS" and heavy on the " re-surfacing your items".
post #190 of 257
Well i may be the first among the group to have killed a card doing this. As it broke through the glue the blade smacked into this little doober labeled C72 on this version of my card and popped it free from the board. I re-soldered it the best of my ability but my hopes are not high.

bepevusa.jpg

2a2a2ase.jpg

Couldn't get any better pics with my phone last night. Going to drop it in the system tonight foe a quick boot up just to see if it comes to life or not.
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