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Sean's Windows 7 Install & Optimization Guide for SSDs & HDDs - Page 231

post #2301 of 5384
Help,

Must have done something wrong.

When I shut down windows says installing updates 1 of 97. When I power up Windows says installing updates, that would be normal.

However, it does this every time I shut down, tries to install 97 updates, over and over. I must have done something wrong follwing the set-up guide.

Thanks

NVMD, think I found the problem...
Edited by Gabe63 - 3/8/12 at 7:50am
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post #2302 of 5384
Finally got your guide up an used smile.gif

One question though, I've started to get temp file install errors (I had to manually move the install files to the temp directory for it to work) I followed your guide from top to bottom, including moving user folders, do you have any idea what setting that effect on the temp directory?

Indexing maybe? No idea
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post #2303 of 5384
try running SFC /SCANNOW in command prompt as admin.
This will take a few minutes but its win7 system file check and it will fix itself in most cases.
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post #2304 of 5384
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nocturin View Post

Finally got your guide up an used smile.gif

One question though, I've started to get temp file install errors (I had to manually move the install files to the temp directory for it to work) I followed your guide from top to bottom, including moving user folders, do you have any idea what setting that effect on the temp directory?

Indexing maybe? No idea

What are the temp file errors? I have no idea what you are talking about lol I'm on steam, go on and well chat.
post #2305 of 5384
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Webster View Post

What are the temp file errors? I have no idea what you are talking about lol I'm on steam, go on and well chat.

I'll be on steam later tonight after work, I'll explain it to you then smile.gif. I've never had it happen before and got my first blue-screen in years yesterday due to a 0x*****0a1 error, while playing BF3. >.<<br />
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post #2306 of 5384
Sean, thanks for the Guide, this has been a great help. On the much discussed topic of moving User Profile Folders, I have done the following for a fresh Install of Windows 7: Create an Admin Account during install that resides on the C: Drive. Before I create any User Accounts I modify the ProfilesDirectoy using Regedit as follows:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE -> SOFTWARE -> Microsoft -> Windows NT -> CurrentVersion -> ProfileList

In the right pane, I modify ProfilesDirectory to G:\Users (where G: is my HDD ). Now when I create new Users, all User files are located on the HDD, including AppData. This works perfectly. Ex. iTunes installed on the C: Drive has no problem recognizing my iTunes folder I copied to My Music folder on the HDD. Ex. I can copy my Thunderbird folder to AppData ->Roaming (on the HDD), install Thunderbird on my C: Drive, Start Thunderbird and whala, all my current mail, mail profiles and mail archives are up and running.

My two questions for the experts are, Should I also create a Junction for each user Profile and should I also modify the Public Profiles to G:\User\Public and create a Junction for the Public Profiles? Basically, how big could Public Profiles get?

Note, I leave the Admin Profile on the C: Drive. This turns out to be useful.

- jclentini
post #2307 of 5384
Thanks for the response and so quickly too.

So...I did it. I did it at first while it was running in German and than realize I've could done it in English if I extracted the english support file.

This is when I close firefox and let my background services running which was minimal impact as it was running less than 50k memory with 1-5% cpu load and nothing installing or such. Around 50-55 processes.

501

And this is around 30 seconds after I restarted my computer.

501

I was like, ***? write speed is crap...

Sam
post #2308 of 5384
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jclentini View Post

Sean, thanks for the Guide, this has been a great help. On the much discussed topic of moving User Profile Folders, I have done the following for a fresh Install of Windows 7: Create an Admin Account during install that resides on the C: Drive. Before I create any User Accounts I modify the ProfilesDirectoy using Regedit as follows:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE -> SOFTWARE -> Microsoft -> Windows NT -> CurrentVersion -> ProfileList

In the right pane, I modify ProfilesDirectory to G:\Users (where G: is my HDD ). Now when I create new Users, all User files are located on the HDD, including AppData. This works perfectly. Ex. iTunes installed on the C: Drive has no problem recognizing my iTunes folder I copied to My Music folder on the HDD. Ex. I can copy my Thunderbird folder to AppData ->Roaming (on the HDD), install Thunderbird on my C: Drive, Start Thunderbird and whala, all my current mail, mail profiles and mail archives are up and running.

My two questions for the experts are, Should I also create a Junction for each user Profile and should I also modify the Public Profiles to G:\User\Public and create a Junction for the Public Profiles? Basically, how big could Public Profiles get?

Note, I leave the Admin Profile on the C: Drive. This turns out to be useful.

- jclentini

That to me is a big hassle lol. Plus, the appdata folder would not be on my SSD which is where I want it.

Public profiles don't get big unless you use them. Do what ever you feel keeps your data organized for ya better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuez View Post

Thanks for the response and so quickly too.

So...I did it. I did it at first while it was running in German and than realize I've could done it in English if I extracted the english support file.

This is when I close firefox and let my background services running which was minimal impact as it was running less than 50k memory with 1-5% cpu load and nothing installing or such. Around 50-55 processes.

501

And this is around 30 seconds after I restarted my computer.

501

I was like, ***? write speed is crap...

Sam

Well those speeds explains your speed issue. You can try a secure erase and restore your system after and that could help.
post #2309 of 5384
yea, sigh.

I already tried use DBAN when I reinstall the second time, and that's the result of that OS installation.

Now, let see if I can RMA it to adata though I only have the SSD and nothing else...

-_-

Thanks for pointing that out to me, I wouldn't had check for write speed since I though HD Tune would give some indication but I guess they're all about read.
post #2310 of 5384
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuez View Post

yea, sigh.

I already tried use DBAN when I reinstall the second time, and that's the result of that OS installation.

Now, let see if I can RMA it to adata though I only have the SSD and nothing else...

-_-

Thanks for pointing that out to me, I wouldn't had check for write speed since I though HD Tune would give some indication but I guess they're all about read.
Please read this thread and learn about SSDs: http://www.overclock.net/t/1179518/seans-ssd-buyers-guide-information-thread

DBAN is not Secure Erase! DBAN is the reason that your drive is running so slow! It heavily writes to the NAND and kills write speeds.

And HDTune is for HDDs not SSDs.

AS SSD and ATTO are what you should be using.

Erasing all the data on the SSD:
It is not safe to use DBAN Nuke or similar on SSDs. First, it's not good for the drive, and second, it wouldn't work properly anyway. Not good for the drive because it writes to the drive too many times. Wouldn't work properly because just like the OS, DBAN cannot control where it writes to on the drive. The SSD's controller is responsible for that, and due to wear leveling algorithms, wouldn't get you the intended results. With an SSD, all you need is to perform a "secure erase".

  • Secure erase
    Secure erase is where the SSD controller issues the ATA Securiy Erase Unit command that applies a voltage spike at a specific voltage to all of the NAND simultaneously flushing the stored electrons from the flash memory cells, thus cleaning the NAND. This in turn resets all the NAND cells on the SSD and leaves the drive's data in an unrecoverable state and at factory speeds.
  • How to: Secure Erase Your SSD: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
    This is how to secure a SSD with parted magic. Hopefully this will help out people who have never done it before and can get a little boost in performance after a few months of heavy use.

    Secure Erase Guide:

    Video Tut:


    Textual Guide
    1. Download parted magic and make a bootable CD or USB: Parted Magic
    2. Once bootable load it and select option 1 (default settings)
      340
    3. Once booted, at the main screen got to Start > System Tools > Erase Disk
      452
    4. Now select the "Internal:Secure Erase command writes zeroes to entire data area" option which will write zeroes to your entire data area" option
      451
    5. Select the disk that you want to secure erase
      373
    6. If you get a message stating that your SSD drive is "frozen," click the Sleep button to put your PC to sleep, then wake up your system and start over from Step 3. If you don't get this message, move on to Step 7.
      217
    7. Some drives indicate that they have a password requirement. Leave the password as "NULL" and click OK.
      312
    8. Now a verify window will pop up, select "Yes" to continue.
      Note: If it prompts you to use the "enhanced" or "advanced" method do not use it, click no, it can write random data, and there is also the possibility that it may access parts of the drive that it shouldn't!
      234
    9. This shouldn't take long on your SSD, most likely only a few seconds. Now you are done.
      95

      Freeze Locked:
      Basically "Freeze Locking" your SSD will not let it be allowed to be Secure Erased. If the UEFI/BIOS recognizes the SSD as plugged in at boot up then it will lock it. If you plug in the SSD after the computer is on then it will not be locked and it should be able to be Secure Erased normally.

      1. If your SSD is being "Freeze Locked" or not showing up then try this:
        You will get an option to put the PC to sleep, try that first then try to Secure Erase again
      2. If that still does not work:
        When you put the PC into sleep mode make sure you have any USB devices unplugged from the system and the Parted Magic USB/Live CD as well.
      3. If that doesn't work try below on top of the other suggestions:
        1. Reboot
        2. Enable AHCI mode in the UEFI/BIOS and "hot swap" on the SATA ports
        3. Save & exit
        4. Turn off the computer
        5. Unplug EVERYTHING on your SATA ports except for your CD/DVD drive
        6. Turn on and boot to Parted Magic
        7. When in the main GUI plug your SSD into a normal SATA 2 port
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