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What do I need to know, to properly flush a new radiator before use? - Page 2

post #11 of 16
Yeah, I made the mistake of not flushing my RX240 when I added it to my loop. Within minutes of pumping water through the loop green and black specks started to build up inside the CPU block. I have a plexi top on my CPU block so I could see them quite clearly. I had to drain the loop, pull the CPU block, open the block and clean it out. Should have done it right the first time. Ah well, live and learn ehhh?
    
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post #12 of 16
Hi,

All comes down to do it rite the first time.

Water and vinegar and took three try's.

First couple of times came out looking like swamp water with flakes
in it. Third time the charm and then flushed with distilled.

And, had to do this with #3 Rads, all the same result.
Res now clear as a bell.wink.gif

Later:D
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post #13 of 16
i noticed a brownish rusty looking tinge in my radiator as i peered into the holes. I know it can't be rust because it's not made of iron, but should i be concerned? I mean it's supposed to be a brand new rad as part of a rasa kit from sidewinder.

What you guys think of using lemon juice (citric acid) as opposed to vinegar (acetic acid). i know that they both corrode metals, that's why they are used to clean them but i've read conflicting arguments that posit you should avoid acids - at least for long periods. Where do i strike the balance?
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post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by arfaad;15568819 
i noticed a brownish rusty looking tinge in my radiator as i peered into the holes. I know it can't be rust because it's not made of iron, but should i be concerned? I mean it's supposed to be a brand new rad as part of a rasa kit from sidewinder.

What you guys think of using lemon juice (citric acid) as opposed to vinegar (acetic acid). i know that they both corrode metals, that's why they are used to clean them but i've read conflicting arguments that posit you should avoid acids - at least for long periods. Where do i strike the balance?

Just use vinegar and flush well.

Don't even want the word (Lemon) around anything I have;)

Later:D
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post #15 of 16
Gloves. That's what you need to know before flushing your radiator. Be sure to wear gloves, nice thick leather ones that you can pick up for $5 dollars at your local WalMart or hardware store. (On top of the advice listed above of course wink.gif )

Nothing makes you feel worse than getting a shiny new radiator to the sink/tub and filling it with super-hot water to only pick it up and realize that you just grabbed a piece of metal that has a temperature near that of boiling water, and subsequently dropping it. I was lucky my first time doing this and did not damage my radiator, but we can't be lucky every day. cool.gif

My 2cents.gif
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post #16 of 16
so far I have experience with 3 types of radiators..

HWL SR1 120, 240 and 360
Very clean when arrived, did not notice any flakes, there was very little gunk in the 360, but the 240 and 120 was perfectly clean.

Thermochill TA120.3
flakes, gunk and even some salt from being shipped by sea.. took the longest to clean, required use of vinegar and warm water, rinsed repeatedly.. had to dip the entire unit under water to remove the calcium build up around the 1/4 threading, this may have just been bad luck as I'm sure not all of them comes in this shape..

Swiftech MCR320-QPK
very clean upon arrival, no gunk, no flakes, perfect !! I ran it overnight just in case in my test bed and when I drained it, it was clean...

Point is...

It really depends how dirty it is, if it was anything like my Therochill's, some serious work will be required, but if it's just a little or none, a simple flush with the faucet, then rinse with distilled.. I preferably let it run over night inside my test loop just to make sure there are no leaks.. but that's just me..
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