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Did I make a mistake? RS240 vs H100? - Page 3

post #21 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
As far as the tubing goes:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html

Just grab 6 feet at MOST of any color of that stuff you want. You'll want 7/16" ID, as that's what will fit on your kit (and what came with it).

Killcoil:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobia...p-pr-4530.html

You'll need to coil that up yourself (use a pencil or something, I dunno). Otherwise, that's all you'll need....and a couple of cups worth of distilled water.
FrozenCPU included a KillCoil for me when I purchased it. How do I figure out how much tubing I need? I figured in my 500R it shouldnt take too much tubing from the radiator to the cpu.

Btw, thanks to everyone giving me advice. Im entering a whole new computer world.
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post #22 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodkacooling View Post
FrozenCPU included a KillCoil for me when I purchased it. How do I figure out how much tubing I need? I figured in my 500R it shouldnt take too much tubing from the radiator to the cpu.

Btw, thanks to everyone giving me advice. Im entering a whole new computer world.
I think I only used about 2 feet personally on mine. Just to be SAFE you'll want 5-6 feet of it. That way you KNOW you've got enough just in case you screw up on a run.

Just test fit everything first and cut your tubes that way (so that it fits nicely and beautifully). Then pull your components out (board, CPU, GPU, all that stuff), and put the loop together. Fill it, and leak test for a few hours. I got impatient, and put my rig together after 4 hours of leak testing. Some people like to wait 12 hours. Whatever. Once you're 110% sure its not going to leak on you, then you go ahead and put your components back in, and enjoy a nice cool rig.

While mine was leak testing, I used a cardboard box tech station (my motherboard's box) so I could still use my rig while my case and loop were leak testing.

Just some ideas.
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post #23 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
I think I only used about 2 feet personally on mine. Just to be SAFE you'll want 5-6 feet of it. That way you KNOW you've got enough just in case you screw up on a run.

Just test fit everything first and cut your tubes that way (so that it fits nicely and beautifully). Then pull your components out (board, CPU, GPU, all that stuff), and put the loop together. Fill it, and leak test for a few hours. I got impatient, and put my rig together after 4 hours of leak testing. Some people like to wait 12 hours. Whatever. Once you're 110% sure its not going to leak on you, then you go ahead and put your components back in, and enjoy a nice cool rig.

While mine was leak testing, I used a cardboard box tech station (my motherboard's box) so I could still use my rig while my case and loop were leak testing.

Just some ideas.

Good call on the leak testing. Lol. I would be so impatient. Id just want to plug it in and go.

I keep thinking that H100 would have been plug and go. Yet since I started building PCs ive longed for a Water Cooled system. lol.
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post #24 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodkacooling View Post
Good call on the leak testing. Lol. I would be so impatient. Id just want to plug it in and go.

I keep thinking that H100 would have been plug and go. Yet since I started building PCs ive longed for a Water Cooled system. lol.
Well, the H100 would have been plug in and go.

But its just like building your own machine instead of going for a Dell. It's just a LOT more fun if you do it yourself.
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post #25 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Well, the H100 would have been plug in and go.

But its just like building your own machine instead of going for a Dell. It's just a LOT more fun if you do it yourself.
haha! you sure know how to put things into perspective when it comes to computers. lol.

I found amazon selling primo chill tubing 10ft for 16 bucks with free 2 day delivery for me right now. Could always buy that in several months.

Black tubing is looking really sleek.

How do I know if the water is getting bad? If i buy black tubing or colored tubing, do I just assume its bad after 6 months?
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post #26 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodkacooling View Post
haha! you sure know how to put things into perspective when it comes to computers. lol.

I found amazon selling primo chill tubing 10ft for 16 bucks with free 2 day delivery for me right now. Could always buy that in several months.

Black tubing is looking really sleek.

How do I know if the water is getting bad? If i buy black tubing or colored tubing, do I just assume its bad after 6 months?
I just look at the water that's in my resevior. Makes things easier that way.

Here's a step by step on how I built mine (maybe it'll help)

1) Temporarily fit blocks, rads, res, pump, etc, so its where its going to be at permanently.

2) Cut tubing to fit perfectly.

3) Pull all main PC parts out. Use on a cardboard box while assembling and leak testing with stock cooler. This way, if there IS a leak, it won't hurt anything at all. Just dry off your case.

4) Assemble the loop (since all the tubes will be proper length). Use clamps of some kind or 2 zip ties offset from each other, to hold the tubing in place. Make sure the tubing is all the way down on the barbs.

5) Put kill coil into res, and fill the res up.

6) Use a spare junk PSU (jumped to turn on), and put power to the pump for a second or two. Put more water in as needed. Note, you do NOT want to run your pump without water. So make sure on this step, you ONLY have the pump on long enough to get water into the system the first few power ons.

7) Keep up with #6 until the loop is FULL (to the full mark on the res).

8) Put the cap on the res, and shake the holy crap out of everything. Get all the bubbles out of the system. Open up the cap as needed to let the bubbles out easier. Fill more as needed, and continue to shake after you fill (with cap on).

9) Once all the bubbles are out, let it sit there running for at least 4 hours (up to 12, whatever you want and are comfortable with). Put paper towels under everything, so if you DO spring a leak, you can easily figure out where its at.

Once you're done leak testing, assemble your rig and enjoy nice and cool temps, and quiet.

With my "molested H50", I load at 71*C with the overclock in my sig, with my Yate Loon High fans on 60% speed (quiet).
Edited by pioneerisloud - 11/4/11 at 1:21am
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post #27 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodkacooling View Post
Dang Gumbie,

haha, dangerous. Yea its very addicting. I dont see myself ever cooling my videocard. I put it up for sale and got low balled at $100 shipped. For that price I'd much rather keep it.

What about using coolant? is it better to use some sort of coolant rather than just plain distilled water?
Heh, I remember saying the same thing to my self.. Now both my GTX570's are water cooled

Just added up the price of my fittings .. Lets just say that it's $300 + for a ball park figure..
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post #28 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
I just look at the water that's in my resevior. Makes things easier that way.

Here's a step by step on how I built mine (maybe it'll help)

1) Temporarily fit blocks, rads, res, pump, etc, so its where its going to be at permanently.

2) Cut tubing to fit perfectly.

3) Pull all main PC parts out. Use on a cardboard box while assembling and leak testing with stock cooler. This way, if there IS a leak, it won't hurt anything at all. Just dry off your case.

4) Assemble the loop (since all the tubes will be proper length). Use clamps of some kind or 2 zip ties offset from each other, to hold the tubing in place. Make sure the tubing is all the way down on the barbs.

5) Put kill coil into res, and fill the res up.

6) Use a spare junk PSU (jumped to turn on), and put power to the pump for a second or two. Put more water in as needed. Note, you do NOT want to run your pump without water. So make sure on this step, you ONLY have the pump on long enough to get water into the system the first few power ons.

7) Keep up with #6 until the loop is FULL (to the full mark on the res).

8) Put the cap on the res, and shake the holy crap out of everything. Get all the bubbles out of the system. Open up the cap as needed to let the bubbles out easier. Fill more as needed, and continue to shake after you fill (with cap on).

9) Once all the bubbles are out, let it sit there running for at least 4 hours (up to 12, whatever you want and are comfortable with). Put paper towels under everything, so if you DO spring a leak, you can easily figure out where its at.

Once you're done leak testing, assemble your rig and enjoy nice and cool temps, and quiet.

With my "molested H50", I load at 71*C with the overclock in my sig, with my Yate Loon High fans on 60% speed (quiet).

Thanks for that write up! ill for sure do that.

If i dont manage to sell it. Ill assemble it. I havnt had my comp for a week now. I sold my 2600k and downgraded to a 2500k (used the diff for the speeding ticket). Now im trying to figure out how to get the money off this cooler back. If frozencpu will accept the return without restocking fee, then ima do it.

if not then Ill put it all together.
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post #29 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodkacooling View Post
Thanks for that write up! ill for sure do that.

If i dont manage to sell it. Ill assemble it. I havnt had my comp for a week now. I sold my 2600k and downgraded to a 2500k (used the diff for the speeding ticket). Now im trying to figure out how to get the money off this cooler back. If frozencpu will accept the return without restocking fee, then ima do it.

if not then Ill put it all together.
Fair enough.
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post #30 of 34
RS240 has an upgrade path, you'll be happy about it later.
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