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Choice of Cooling in Extreme Humidity

post #1 of 10
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Has anything ever thought about the best type of cooling in extreme humidity?

I live in Hong Kong, anyone who has been here knows it is unbearable heat and humidity from about march until november. While here, I have used an H50 push pull and an OCZ vendetta 2. i have not noticed a great deal between them.

Has anyone ever heard of the possible effects of humidity on the best cooling solutions?

Reason I m asking is I now have to choose between the H100 and Silver Arrow

Thanks
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post #2 of 10
Humidity will only make heat-to-air cooling more effective. Since water has a much higher specific heat than air, the water vapor will be better at whisking the heat away from the heatsink. This applies to both normal air cooling, and water cooling (which is ultimately air cooling anyway).
post #3 of 10
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Yes, but water takes a longer time to heat up and therefore will not remove as much heat from the radiator as air, in the same time it passes through.
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post #4 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by chasefrench View Post
Yes, but water takes a longer time to heat up and therefore will not remove as much heat from the radiator as air, in the same time it passes through.
False.

You are confusing temperature with heat. Water has a larger specific heat, which means that it takes more energy (heat) to increase a liter of water vapor 1*C than a liter of air 1*C.

In other words, since rate of heat transfer is based primarily on a difference in temperature, the water will be much more effective at removing heat because it will stay at a lower temperature longer.
post #5 of 10
dehumidifier, aquarium chiller, and of course a few water blocks tubing, a res and pump!!
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post #6 of 10
Where I live in in the State's it is common for humidity to reach 100% in the summer time. I happen to be a very "cheap" person and don't run my AC durring the summer and find that my Silver Arrow cools very, very well in 35c+ ambiant temps with 100% humidity
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post #7 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick2253 View Post
False.

You are confusing temperature with heat. Water has a larger specific heat, which means that it takes more energy (heat) to increase a liter of water vapor 1*C than a liter of air 1*C.

In other words, since rate of heat transfer is based primarily on a difference in temperature, the water will be much more effective at removing heat because it will stay at a lower temperature longer.
Good explanation.

Take a daily life analogy:- In Hong Kong, the humidity remains relatively high all year around. Up north, say in Beijing, the air is much drier. So, with the same temperature in both cities, say 10C in winter or 30C in summer, a person feels much colder in Hong Kong than in Beijing during winter and hotter during summer.

Another example is: a naked person can survive 10C dry air much longer than being submerged in 10C water because the heat transfer (from his body to the surrounding) is much faster in water. Bad for a human body but great for a CPU cooler.

Back to the topic:-
I would choose the H100 over the Silver Arrow. However, Zalman GT1000 does not have a native place to install the 240 rad. If no modding is preferred, use the SA then.

Also, other than the type of cooler used, other 'controllable' factors like thermal paste, case internal and external airflow should also be tackled exhaustively to reach an optimal result.
post #8 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by windfire View Post
Good explanation.

Take a daily life analogy:- In Hong Kong, the humidity remains relatively high all year around. Up north, say in Beijing, the air is much drier. So, with the same temperature in both cities, say 10C in winter or 30C in summer, a person feels much colder in Hong Kong than in Beijing during winter and hotter during summer.

Another example is: a naked person can survive 10C dry air much longer than being submerged in 10C water because the heat transfer (from his body to the surrounding) is much faster in water. Bad for a human body but great for a CPU cooler.

Back to the topic:-
I would choose the H100 over the Silver Arrow. However, Zalman GT1000 does not have a native place to install the 240 rad. If no modding is preferred, use the SA then.

Also, other than the type of cooler used, other 'controllable' factors like thermal paste, case internal and external airflow should also be tackled exhaustively to reach an optimal result.
Why? almost twice the price, and noise with minimal difference in temps. Please explain?
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post #9 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post
Why? almost twice the price, and noise with minimal difference in temps. Please explain?
The price difference between them is far from 'twice the price'. A H100 costs around US$110 (equivalent) while the Silver Arrow cost about US$77 (equiv) in Hong Kong.

For $33, one gets H100's relative ease of installation, less bulky/heavy, slightly better thermal performance and more quiet.
post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by windfire View Post
The price difference between them is far from 'twice the price'. A H100 costs around US$110 (equivalent) while the Silver Arrow cost about US$77 (equiv) in Hong Kong.

For $33, one gets H100's relative ease of installation, less bulky/heavy, slightly better thermal performance and more quiet.
Having seen the H100 in action for myself, I can say it is not more quiet with better cooling. Stock Silver Arrow beats out the H100 if you turn down the fans on the H100. it make's more noise to cool as well, and even more noise to cool better. H100 even make's more noise than my silver arrow with San Ace's.

Further more. If your going to drop the money for the H100 the better buy would be a Rasa RS240. better temps than both the silver arrow or h100 can offer.
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