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2 F3 1TB HDD's. How best to use them?

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
I have two Samsung F3 1TB HDD's (HD103SJ). I want to use them for operating system and games. I only need 500GB total, and I'm not concerned about the risks of RAID etc.

For best possible performance in games, Windows and other general programs, should I:

a) Put both drives in a RAID 0 array, limited to a total volume size of 500GB, with a 100GB partition for the O/S and a 400GB partition for programs.

-or-

b) Put the drives in JBOD, one short stroked to 100GB for the O/S and the other at 400GB for programs.

I thought option B might be better because I don't really need the seq reads and writes of RAID 0 and RAID might add latency. Also, if the O/S is on a drive completely independent of the games, then the heads wont have to move away from the game data every time a background O/S task is going on?
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post #2 of 20
Or you could just run them in RAID and call it a day.
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post #3 of 20
If you only need 500 gigs and wont need more in the future I would sell one and get an SSD, the other one split into 2 partitions and use one for programs and 1 for backup.
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post #4 of 20
whats the point of limiting the drives to a quarter of what they can store in raid 0, why dont u just raid them put all your games on those then buy a SSD drive for your OS and another HDD for storage biggrin.gif

and i dont think raid 0 adds latency, it will load ur games faster
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post #5 of 20
Sell one and buy an SSD for the OS
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post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermaltake View Post

Or you could just run them in RAID and call it a day.

A 2TB drive is going to get slow over time (as it gets filled up)

Not interested in SSDs.

I already had two Intel 320 SSDs. I didn't find them particularly impressive, probably because 80% of my use is gaming and that's mostly loaded into the RAM anyway. I only noticed a significan't reduction in load times in Call of Duty 4/5. I sold the SSDs, and really haven't been missing them at all since I've been back on mechanical HDDs. Windows and general apps are a little slower, but not enough to warrant the SSD price tag.

I got these F3s before the flooding happened in Asia, so it's a very cost effective solution.

Right now I'm using them as specified in configuration 'A'. They're great, but I'm about to reformat and wondering if 'B' would be even better.
Edited by Oubadah - 11/14/11 at 9:53pm
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post #7 of 20
Thread Starter 
Option C:

There is one more drive in this machine, an older 750GB Spinpoint F1 (HD753LJ). I was going to use it for storage (movies etc.), but what if I short stroked it to 100GB and used it as the O/S drive. Then put the two F3 drives in short stroked RAID 0 as a dedicated game/program drive.

Here is a comparison between a single F3 1TB and the F1 750TB:

GjFf7.png
SumjU.png

Do you think I'd notice the difference between the F3 and F1 as O/S drives?

And here is a read benchmark of the F1 in simulated 100GB short stroke:

J4HOx.png
Edited by Oubadah - 11/15/11 at 2:53am
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post #8 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oubadah View Post

Do you think I'd notice the difference between the F3 and F1 as O/S drives?
Yes, but it's still a good idea.

The thing that makes short-stroking so very effective is your OS and other programs are constantly pulling your drive's head out of position. That slows things down... it causes stutters. It's very noticeable on high access time drives like 5400RPM Greens, and you can still feel it on faster drives. (maybe not Raptors, but certainly on most 7200RPM drives)

If your OS is on a separate drive, very little will be reading or writing to the games drive except for your games. That means the head will nearly always be in the right position. It simply has to wait for the platter to spin to the right point. Short-stroking will still matter for great sequential performance, but your access times are always going to be on the low end of what's possible. thumb.gif

If you want a great gaming experience, I'd do it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1103155/which-drive-should-i-boot-from/0_100#post_14735396
http://www.overclock.net/t/1103155/which-drive-should-i-boot-from/0_100#post_14746863
     
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post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kramy View Post

Yes, but it's still a good idea.
The thing that makes short-stroking so very effective is your OS and other programs are constantly pulling your drive's head out of position. That slows things down... it causes stutters. It's very noticeable on high access time drives like 5400RPM Greens, and you can still feel it on faster drives. (maybe not Raptors, but certainly on most 7200RPM drives)
If your OS is on a separate drive, very little will be reading or writing to the games drive except for your games. That means the head will nearly always be in the right position. It simply has to wait for the platter to spin to the right point. Short-stroking will still matter for great sequential performance, but your access times are always going to be on the low end of what's possible. thumb.gif
If you want a great gaming experience, I'd do it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1103155/which-drive-should-i-boot-from/0_100#post_14735396
http://www.overclock.net/t/1103155/which-drive-should-i-boot-from/0_100#post_14746863

OK. Well my only issue with using the F1 as an O/S is that it is quite old. I have tested it for bad sectors and it was fine. Can anyone tell me what all this means, I can't make any sense of all those values:

XKvZF.png

And is 9230 power on hours and 1351 on count very high? I can't compare to my other drives as they're in RAID and the software won't recognize them...

Is it healthy enough to commit to being my O/S drive?
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post #10 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oubadah View Post

OK. Well my only issue with using the F1 as an O/S is that it is quite old. I have tested it for bad sectors and it was fine. Can anyone tell me what all this means, I can't make any sense of all those values:

XKvZF.png

And is 9230 power on hours and 1351 on count very high? I can't compare to my other drives as they're in RAID and the software won't recognize them...

Is it healthy enough to commit to being my O/S drive?
We usually use HDTune for reading SMART info - CrystalDiskMark unfortunately displays hexadecimal values rather than decimal.

Not that it matters - C5/C6/C7/05/01/C8/etc. are all at 0 in the "Raw Values" column, indicating the drive is in good health.

Spinup time is a tad high at 7760ms, but that might just be because older drives tended to spin up slower.


Re: PowerOnHours and PowerOnCount

9230 and 1351 are not extremely high. Most of my drives are somewhere between 10,000-30,000 power on hours, and 100-1500 power ons. I know someone that constantly hibernates her laptop, and she's nearing 20k power ons. I really don't know how long most drives last, but my own personal experiences suggest you don't have much to worry about...
     
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Pisen Card Reader Gigabyte M7 Thor 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
VIA Eden C7 1200mhz Jetway J7F4K1G2ES-LF VIA Onboard 512MB PC2-4200 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
A-Data FlashDrive None Fanless Linux 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Headless None 65w Power Brick Antec ISK300-65 
MouseAudio
None Onboard VIA 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Barton XP-M 2400+ FJQ4C Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe 256MB BFG 7800GS OC 2x512MB Samsung PC3200 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Raptor 74GB/Seagate 120GB Windows 2000 Pro 60hz 17" CRT Brandless PS2 Keyboard 
PowerMouse
Antec Neo HE 550w Logitech G5 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8350 @ 4.6ghz 1.425v Sabertooth 990FX Zotac GTX 1070 Amp! 32GB (4x8GB) Kingston Fury 1866mhz CL10 1T 1.5v 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Hitachi 2TB - HDS723020BLA64 Crucial M500 960GB - CT960M500SSD1 WD 4TB Black - WD4001FAEX WD 4TB Black - WD4001FAEX 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Seagate 2TB - ST2000DM001 WD 640GB Black - WD6401AALS Seagate 6TB - ST6000DM001 Micron M500 - MTFDDAK480MAV 
Optical DriveOptical DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
Pioneer DVR-115DBK Samsung SH-S243D/BEBE LG GH22NS90 Lite-On EBAU108 External DVD 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Noctua NH-D15 Fractal Design 140mm Fan - FD-FAN-140 Fractal Design 120mm Fan - FD-FAN-120 Windows 7 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Ubuntu 14.04 LTS Samsung 2343BWX 23" (2048x1152) BenQ GW2765HT 27" IPS LCD Monitor (2560x1440) Genius Keyboard KB-G235 PA 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Platinum 1000w PSU - SS-1000XP Fractal Design Define R5 Steelseries Rival 6500 dcpi Mousepad + Desk 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Onboard Realtek® ALC 892 Cyber Acoustics CA-2992 2.0 Speakers Razer Krait 1600 DPI nGear G-C1601 Card Reader 
OtherOther
Pisen Card Reader Gigabyte M7 Thor 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
VIA Eden C7 1200mhz Jetway J7F4K1G2ES-LF VIA Onboard 512MB PC2-4200 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
A-Data FlashDrive None Fanless Linux 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Headless None 65w Power Brick Antec ISK300-65 
MouseAudio
None Onboard VIA 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Barton XP-M 2400+ FJQ4C Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe 256MB BFG 7800GS OC 2x512MB Samsung PC3200 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Raptor 74GB/Seagate 120GB Windows 2000 Pro 60hz 17" CRT Brandless PS2 Keyboard 
PowerMouse
Antec Neo HE 550w Logitech G5 
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