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New gaming rig, need part recommendations - Page 2

post #11 of 90
there's no real point in getting a "K" series unless you're going to overclock. you could also save 100$ or so and just sli gtx 460's like me. http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/306?vs=314
i'm not sure if bf3 is gpu or cpu intensive but if its more gpu then you can even lower your processor. my completed specs will work fine for gaming. and leave room for future upgrades. i havent tried bf3 yet, but once my rig is 100% complete ill let you kno what my fps is
Edited by _TRU_ - 11/17/11 at 3:05pm
post #12 of 90
Thread Starter 
So hows this look. I don't mind if it's overkill.

GPU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130687

RAM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145347&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL111711&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL111711-_-EMC-111711-Index-_-DesktopMemory-_-20145347-L0A

Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133191

SSD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233205

CPU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115070

What I need help with choosing now is the PSU, CD-Drive, HDD, MOBO, Monitor, Heatsink
Edited by SharpShoot3r07 - 11/17/11 at 3:29pm
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post #13 of 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Draven73 View Post

First of all is this rig only for gaming or do you plan on using it for folding, encoding, or video editing? if just for gaming I'd go for 8gigs of G.skill ripjaws 1600 and an i5 2500k and use the money you save for your new monitor, I have also heard good things about the Crucial M4 SSD 64gig or the 128gig, but that's just me

You're going to get more performance out of 2x4GB sticks of RAM than you will out of 4x4GB sticks of RAM. It's not about 8 GB vs 16 GB, it's about faster timings and more stability at overclocked timings than anything else. 8 GB of RAM and disabling the page-file (swap-file) on your system (Virtual Memory) is going to handle every game on the market now and then some. In fact, the extreme over-clocking crowd typically goes with 2x2GB of RAM to eek out the absolute most out of their RAM performance. Just because the motherboard has four slots for DIMMs does not mean that populating all four DIMMs is a good thing. If you populate only one DIMM, your motherboard will run in standard mode. If you populate the second and fourth DIMM (preferable) then your motherboard operates at fast timings in dual-channel mode. This allows it to alternate fetching data from one while it sends data to the other and essentially "double" the data rate. Another alternative is to populate the first and third DIMM for dual-channel mode, and some systems prefer that, but the intel chipsets prefer the second and fourth. Populating all four DIMMs will cause your motherboard to slow its timings down in order to split its efforts between dual-channel mode on the first pair of DIMMs and the separate dual-channel mode on the second pair of DIMMs. You'll actually notice that your memory read and write times are slower with 4x4GB of RAM than they would be with the 2x4GB of RAM. This means longer load times, slower memory performance, etc. Why then, do people get 16 GB of RAM to fill all four slots? They do this because they need 16 GB of RAM to avoid HDD thrashing with a pagefile on heavy video editing or editing 2 TB satellite images or working with absolutely monstrous AutoCAD or AutoDesk files. That's where having gobs of "slow" RAM is better than having a smaller amount of "fast" RAM.

You are a gamer. You are not video editing. You are not running high memory applications. 4 GB with a pagefile or 8 GB with a pagefile disabled is ideal for you and you're going to get much faster response with a build llike that.

With that in mind, you can save $15 on RAM and get higher performance memory such as these G.Skills

You can save $95 on your CPU and get this i5-2500K and overclock it to 4.7 GHz and get comparable performance to an i7.

You can use that $110 you saved to spend $105 more on an eVGA GTX 580 Superclocked. Or do as others suggested and go SLI some 460s for the best price to FPS ratio possible. (One caveat to this is that you'll need to make sure that your games play nicely with SLI profiles. I personally don't like the hassle of SLI profiles and so I went with a single 580 for my GPU solution.)

Doing this is going to make your BF3 performance much better than with the system you were planning and at a $5 lower cost. What's not to like?

I'd strongly suggest listening to what others have said here; it's great advice. Spend less on RAM and get faster RAM. Spend less on the CPU and get a better video card. Video cards are the best place to see higher performance on "ultra-high" in BF3.

Here's a screenshot of my single 580 running BF3 on ultra-high along with the corresponding temperatures for CPU/GPU and the current clock speed of my system. I have a ton of extraneous processes going in the background like steam, origin, trillian, hamachi, evernote, dropbox, and all of my monitoring software for temperatures and frequencies. That's also a single video card pushing a 1920x1200 main screen and a 1280x1024 second monitor. I'm still getting > 60 FPS on ultra-high in most places. (I do tweak down a few settings in multi-player to guarantee that my minimum frame-rates are never below 60 FPS.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
c2a9aa4e_BF3temperatures1920x1200fullscreen.jpeg

Note that I'm only using 5.37 GB of RAM and that's with full windows 7 aero desktop eye-candy and all of my extra programs running in the background. I am not using a pagefile and having 16 GB of RAM would hurt my performance, not help it.
Edited by shad0wfax - 11/17/11 at 3:43pm
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post #14 of 90
Any reason you are going with that particular SSD?

For mobo, you can't go wrong with the ASUS P8Z68-V Pro.

For your PSU, you only need 650W or so. Run the PSU calculator in the sticky in the PSU section of the forums, and look at the recommended PSU list.

CD-Drive - Just get a cheap ASUS Blu-ray drive, unless you need a burner, then go for a DVD+-R burner. LiteOn, Sony, and ASUS are good brands.

Heatsink - the Corsair self-contained water-cooling units are great. You could also go for a Coolermaster 212+

Monitor - What size/resolution do you want?
post #15 of 90
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shad0wfax View Post

You're going to get more performance out of 2x4GB sticks of RAM than you will out of 4x4GB sticks of RAM. It's not about 8 GB vs 16 GB, it's about faster timings and more stability at overclocked timings than anything else. 8 GB of RAM and disabling the page-file (swap-file) on your system (Virtual Memory) is going to handle every game on the market now and then some. In fact, the extreme over-clocking crowd typically goes with 2x2GB of RAM to eek out the absolute most out of their RAM performance.
With that in mind, you can save $15 on RAM and get higher performance memory such as these G.Skills
You can save $95 on your CPU and get this i5-2500K and overclock it to 4.7 GHz and get comparable performance to an i7.
You can use that $110 you saved to spend $105 more on an eVGA GTX 580 Superclocked.
Doing this is going to make your BF3 performance much better than with the system you were planning and at a $5 lower cost. What's not to like?

Well I don't plan on OCing anything. My friend is telling me that the 16GB RAM I have picked out will be fine since I don't plan on overclocking. From what I understand is that the 2x4GB sticks are good WITH an OC but the 4x4GB sticks without an OC are around the same as the 2x4GB sticks. Does that sound right?

Maybe I'm a little confused by your post. Do you have a dumb down version so I could possibly understand better biggrin.gif Is it bad if I were to keep the 16GB RAM I have?
Edited by SharpShoot3r07 - 11/17/11 at 3:50pm
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Rig #5
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Samsung 830 256 GB SSD Noctua NH-D14 Windows 7 Asus VG248QE 24'' 144HZ 1080p 
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post #16 of 90
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick2253 View Post

Any reason you are going with that particular SSD?
For mobo, you can't go wrong with the ASUS P8Z68-V Pro.
For your PSU, you only need 650W or so. Run the PSU calculator in the sticky in the PSU section of the forums, and look at the recommended PSU list.
CD-Drive - Just get a cheap ASUS Blu-ray drive, unless you need a burner, then go for a DVD+-R burner. LiteOn, Sony, and ASUS are good brands.
Heatsink - the Corsair self-contained water-cooling units are great. You could also go for a Coolermaster 212+
Monitor - What size/resolution do you want?

Well about the SSD, I'm not really sure why I chose it. I just searched newegg for 90GB and Sata 3 and there were only 4 options (2 of which were out of stock) the 2 options were two Corsair SSDs and the red one had a $15 mail in rebate for a little better performance.

And for the monitor I don't want something as big as 27''. Maybe a 23" monitor at 1920x1080.
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Intel i7 4770k  ASUS MAXIMUS VI FORMULA  EVGA GTX 980Ti Superclocked G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB DDR3 2400  
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 256 GB SSD Noctua NH-D14 Windows 7 Asus VG248QE 24'' 144HZ 1080p 
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Intel i7 4770k  ASUS MAXIMUS VI FORMULA  EVGA GTX 980Ti Superclocked G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB DDR3 2400  
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 256 GB SSD Noctua NH-D14 Windows 7 Asus VG248QE 24'' 144HZ 1080p 
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Corsair K70 RGB MX Brown Cooler Master V850 Corsair Graphite Series 600T Steel Silver  Logitech G502 Proteus Core 
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post #17 of 90
My recommendation?

2500k. Period. If you see how fast Sandy Bridge is, clock for clock, you'll be throwing money down the toilet getting a 2600k. 100Mhz, HT and more cache won't make a difference worth $100 that something like an SSD/GPU/RAM will do. Just my 2c.

Keep your Caviar Black for storage, and get a well-ranked 40-64Gb SSD for your OS. Keep the PSU, your new case will route cables just fine (Thermaltake).

This is a good quality motherboard, and even if you don't overclock, you'll have the option later, as well as going SLI/Crossfire (even if you stated you have no plans to). It's also a very cheap option for PCI-E 3.0.

This 2x4Gb G.Skill kit is rated for 1600Mhz at CAS 8. A little more expensive then CAS 9, but you already have an OK budget to begin with.

And have you considered going from a GTX 570 2560 to a GTX 580 1.5Gb? You'll have plenty of video memory for 1080/1200p, and it's not much more for a reference 580 (~$100. But, if you got a 2500k, you could afford it. You'll get MUCH more performance with a 2500k/GTX 580 combo than a 2600k/GTX 570 combo, and it will cost roughly the same).

Good luck on your new build thumb.gif
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post #18 of 90
Thread Starter 
Ok, well you guys have convinced me me to get the i5 2500k and use the $100 I save to get the 580 GTX applaud.gif
Edited by SharpShoot3r07 - 11/17/11 at 4:05pm
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Samsung 830 256 GB SSD Noctua NH-D14 Windows 7 Asus VG248QE 24'' 144HZ 1080p 
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post #19 of 90
Thread Starter 
So far I've hit my budget with only 6 parts frown.gif

Here's an updated version of my cart

Case $145
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133191

GPU $510
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130590

RAM $65
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231445

CPU $225
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072

SSD $160

MOBO $210
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131730

PSU
possibly re-using my Corsair 750TX

HDD
Possibly re-using my Western Digital Black 640GB

Do you guys see any problems with re-using my current PSU and HDD?

So far I'm at $1314. Like I said in my first post. I CAN go over my budget by a little bit but i'll just have to wait longer to order.
Edited by SharpShoot3r07 - 11/17/11 at 4:16pm
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post #20 of 90
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB $190 shipped w/ a $20 MIR.

Crossfire XFX HD 6870 2GB $430 shipped w/ $30 MIR

HD 6870 1GB review: http://www.guru3d.com/article/radeon-hd-6850-6870-crossfirex-review/
GTX 570 review: http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-570-sli-review/
GTX 580 review: http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-gtx-580-matrix-review/17

Notice how the GTX 570's performance isn't better in real time performance. As in, you won't notice a difference in performance in game at all. This is also with the 1GB model. Also note, you would only be running a single GTX 570 vs my proposed Crossfire HD 6870 2GB. I put in the 2GB model, since I assume you'd want to spend the extra $50/each for the added VRAM for dual monitor setup with 2560x1600 resolution, where the 2GB model would help a lot.

So for example, BF2 FPS @ 1920x1200: CF HD 6870 2GB $430 vs GTX 570 $400 vs GTX 580 $510 - 95 vs 56 vs 71

*The HD 6870 1GB gets 89 FPS, the 95 is assumed due to the increase in VRAM. Either way, it's not even close.

The RAM is fine, however I've read the heatsinks sometimes get in the way of the CPU heatsinks.
Edited by pLuhhmm - 11/17/11 at 4:24pm
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