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post #61 of 90
Not sure why you make a post about asking recommendations, then ignore them and be a fan boy about parts....
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Phoneix
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post #62 of 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by SharpShoot3r07 View Post

So is there anything wrong with the MOBO I have now? Does anyone else suggest something better.

Z68 includes the main features of both H67 and P67, but at a higher cost. So i am just suggesting since ASUS is a top mainboard manufacterer to go for an http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131771&Tpk=p8p67%20pro Asus P8P67 Pro and save yourself 40$ smile.gif

Nothing wrong with the mobo u suggested just more expensive compared to the one i linked you when u have no reason to choose a Z68 instead of a P67 chipset motherboard:)
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My Gaming Rig :)
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post #63 of 90
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pLuhhmm View Post

Not sure why you make a post about asking recommendations, then ignore them and be a fan boy about parts....

lol, I've taken everyones recommendations into consideration. Don't get mad at me because I'm not doing what you want thumbsupsmiley.png
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post #64 of 90
Ummmm what's wrong with the 920 you have? Unless the power consumption/heat is an issue, there is no reason whatsoever to "upgrade". I'd just get a good heatsink and overclock that 920, to 4ghz, that chip is still more than plenty for gaming. The only upgrade I would do is a GTX 580 3gb and an SSD. FWIW I really think SATA 3 is overrated especially for gaming. I didn't notice much difference going from SATA 2 to SATA 3.
Edited by computerparts - 11/17/11 at 7:25pm
post #65 of 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zanklont View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SharpShoot3r07 View Post

So is there anything wrong with the MOBO I have now? Does anyone else suggest something better.

Z68 includes the main features of both H67 and P67, but at a higher cost. So i am just suggesting since ASUS is a top mainboard manufacterer to go for an http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131771&Tpk=p8p67%20pro Asus P8P67 Pro and save yourself 40$ smile.gif

Nothing wrong with the mobo u suggested just more expensive compared to the one i linked you when u have no reason to choose a Z68 instead of a P67 chipset motherboard:)

I think that this is a great motherboard recommendation. I also agree that a P67 is the way to go and that a Z68 is not important for the rig that this thread is about.


I strongly suggest that you read this thread and then this google document that Track put together.

My own personal choice was this Asus P8P67 WS Revolution and the reason I chose it was because it had the second best VRM phase count of Asus boards at 18 phase. (The best Asus offers is 20 phase, and Gigabyte offers some 24 phase. This is an important thing for extreme overclocking and stability, but you also pay alot for it.) $75 more and probably not necessary at all unless you're trying to get ultimate peformance at overclocking. Click here if you want to learn more about VRM specifically on the Asus boards, and why it's such a selling point for overclockers. The Pro has 12 phase VRM, which is still very good. If you're going to push the ragged edge of overclocking, the board I linked might be more stable.

If you're going to SLI (or Crossfire), then the board I just linked is much faster at it than the one that Zanklont linked, as it handles 2 GPU in PCI x16 mode, and the board Zanklont linked handles 2 GPU at PIC x8 mode. But that's not at all a consideration if you're sold on the single GPU. (For me, that wasn't a factor in my choice but it is a nice bonus if I ever do the SLI thing.) The board I linked sacrifices BlueTooth technology and gains an extra LAN port. (This wasn't a factor either way for me.) IF you want to push the edge of overclocking, the board I linked is potentially better at it as well.

The board Zanklont linked has more USB 3.0 ports (2 internal / 2 external) vs the WS board I linked which has only 2 external USB 3.0 ports.

Both are very solid boards and both have different strengths and weaknesses. I wish mine had an internal USB 3.0 port so that I could rig up front panel USB 3.0 support on my box. Zanklont's board can do that, mine cannot. I wouldn't mind having the BlueTooth capability that Zanklont's board has. However, for me the extra VRM phases were what sold me on the more costly Workstation Revolution board over the pro. The potential for true x16 Dual SLI was a nice bonus, but my thoughts are even more firmly stuck on single video cards now than they were before I bought my upgrades.

For you, the Pro that Zanklont linked may be a far better board, since you're not overclocking and you seem sold on the single GPU and aren't planning to SLI. I do like Asus motherboards. They've always been good to me. Gigabyte is also a very reputable manufacturer of motherboards.
Edited by shad0wfax - 11/17/11 at 8:37pm
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post #66 of 90
maybe this ram G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333? i'm gong to get it as well. it's only 1333 but it has some sweet settings (CAS 7) looked at 1600 @ cas 7 and it was like $50+ more. but its up to you
post #67 of 90
have you looked at the evga 560ti 2win? because it gets about 30 percent better than a gtx 580 and its good for price.
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post #68 of 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREG MISO View Post

have you looked at the evga 560ti 2win? because it gets about 30 percent better than a gtx 580 and its good for price.

Remember though, that it's still going to run in SLI mode and be reliant on SLI profiles to perform well. (And because of this, you cannot place two of these cards into quad SLI mode, which is a limitation that NVIDIA has on their GF110 chipsets.)

This is alot like the GeForce 7950 GX2 compared to the 8800 GTX if you recall those days. Yes, the 7950 had more raw processing power and more RAM and yes it was "1 card" in terms of one card plugging itself into the slot on your motherboard, but it's really two cards SLI'd together from the factory in a single enclosure.

That's exactly what the 560ti2 is doing. It's two 560ti's married together on a single enclosure to only use one slot on your motherboard. It's -still- SLI though.

The one great thing that it does is allow 2 monitor or even 3 monitor gaming, if you have three identical monitors and the system to pull it off.

ANandTech has a good review on it, if you are considering it. I'm still not a fan of SLI, and this card is on-board SLI. The only difference between this and two separate cards is how much space it takes up in your system. At the hardware and software level, this is still two cards in SLI.

I'm going to quote them shamelessly, because it's an absolutely brilliant quote that is relevant to this topic:

"Ultimately the existence of the 2Win is a major vote of confidence in SLI by EVGA. If you believe as they do – that NVIDIA will continue to quickly add SLI support to games, that SLI scaling will always be strong, and that multi-GPU timing issues are easily overcome – then the 2Win makes the GeForce GTX 580 redundant at current pricing. It’s that simple."

The big if, is that NVIDIA will continue to have solid SLI support and driver support for 5XX series cards on future games and not abandon you to upgrade to their next 6XX series when that hits the shelves eventually. That's the kicker with SLI (or Crossfire) you need software support and profile support at the driver level to make them perform well. Yes, right now with BF3 we have that in spades and the dual 560s do 15 to 30% better than the 580s. But what happens in a year when the next game comes out? That single 580 might do 5% or even 15% better than dual 560's if there's not the proper SLI support at the driver level.

This is why I've always been leery of SLI.

And I'm going to quote AnandTech shamelessly again because their next statement sums up my philosophy in a more clear and concise way than I've been saying it:

"On the other hand if you don’t share EVGA’s confidence in SLI, then very little has changed. If you believe that new games will have teething issues with SLI, that microstutter will continue to exist, and that not every game will scale well with SLI, then the 2Win is a poor choice in light of the more consistent performance of the GTX 580. Certainly the performance of the 2Win is phenomenal when SLI is working, but if SLI falters that means the performance of the 2Win is reduced to that of a $220 GTX 560 Ti. It’s not necessarily a deal breaker, but it’s a real concern that must be evaluated when buying any dual-GPU card, including the 2Win. We’re going to continue to be conservative and recommend the consistency of a single-GPU card over the performance of a dual-GPU card, but for the individual buyer the 2Win’s performance makes a very good argument to throw caution into the wind."
Edited by shad0wfax - 11/17/11 at 11:22pm
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post #69 of 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by _TRU_ View Post

maybe this ram G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333? i'm gong to get it as well. it's only 1333 but it has some sweet settings (CAS 7) looked at 1600 @ cas 7 and it was like $50+ more. but its up to you

Faster timings at a lower clock speed doesn't mean much. I'd take a 1600 CL8 over a 1333 CL7 any day. Think about it this way. You're at 1333 MHz and your timings are 7-7-7-21. The timings on the 1600 are 8-8-8-24. So that's 7 X (1-1-1-3) vs 8X (1-1-1-3). You're accelerating your timings by a factor of 12.5% Your clock frequency, however, is slower at 1333 vs 1600 which is a 16.6875% reduction in performance.

You're 16.7% slower in clock but 12.5% faster in timings.

1600 CL8 like these G.Skills out-perform 1333 CL 7.

Granted, the link you posted costs 21.875% less than what I posted. Personally, I'd go for the 1600 CL8. It's great RAM.

If you want to go really crazy on RAM, there are some pretty sick timings on this Corsair Vengeance set but I think that $100 for 7-8-7-21 vs $65 for 8-8-8-24 isn't worth it. Besides, 7-8-7-21 is more like CL 7.25 not a true CL7.

There's also some fairly expensive Corsair Vengeance 1866 CL9 RAM but I'm not sure how friendly it is to overclocking, and with 9-10-9-27 "CL 9" (which seems to me to be more like CL 9.25) might not be worth doing at an $85 price tag. The heatsinks on these are also so monstrous that they might conflict with your CPU fan or hard drives.

There's another option in this extremely low voltage RAM although it's 1600 CL9, it's only $45 and it's going to generate less heat and might even have good OC headroom. I'm not sure, but it is Intel XMP profile 1.25V RAM (Remember that with the SandbyBridge setups you can't exceed 1.5V on your RAM). Some motherboards automatically set this RAM at 1.35V and it has to be forced to run at 1.25V manually, but many people have great things to say about it. If heat vs performance is a concern, this is a contender.
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post #70 of 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by shad0wfax View Post

Faster timings at a lower clock speed doesn't mean much. I'd take a 1600 CL8 over a 1333 CL7 any day. Think about it this way. You're at 1333 MHz and your timings are 7-7-7-21. The timings on the 1600 are 8-8-8-24. So that's 7 X (1-1-1-3) vs 8X (1-1-1-3). You're accelerating your timings by a factor of 12.5% Your clock frequency, however, is slower at 1333 vs 1600 which is a 16.6875% reduction in performance.
You're 16.7% slower in clock but 12.5% faster in timings.
1600 CL8 like these G.Skills out-perform 1333 CL 7.
Granted, the link you posted costs 21.875% less than what I posted. Personally, I'd go for the 1600 CL8. It's great RAM.
If you want to go really crazy on RAM, there are some pretty sick timings on this Corsair Vengeance set but I think that $100 for 7-8-7-21 vs $65 for 8-8-8-24 isn't worth it. Besides, 7-8-7-21 is more like CL 7.25 not a true CL7.
There's also some fairly expensive Corsair Vengeance 1866 CL9 RAM but I'm not sure how friendly it is to overclocking, and with 9-10-9-27 "CL 9" (which seems to me to be more like CL 9.25) might not be worth doing at an $85 price tag. The heatsinks on these are also so monstrous that they might conflict with your CPU fan or hard drives.
There's another option in this extremely low voltage RAM although it's 1600 CL9, it's only $45 and it's going to generate less heat and might even have good OC headroom. I'm not sure, but it is Intel XMP profile 1.25V RAM (Remember that with the SandbyBridge setups you can't exceed 1.5V on your RAM). Some motherboards automatically set this RAM at 1.35V and it has to be forced to run at 1.25V manually, but many people have great things to say about it. If heat vs performance is a concern, this is a contender.

i was going by price:performance, main comparison was cost vs 1600 w same timings. if he's not going to really oc much he wont notice the diff between 1333 and 1600 in day to day stuff. also i swore i had some kingston hyperx running 1600 @ 1.65v w an oc'd 2500k 4.8 ~ 5GHz
Edited by _TRU_ - 11/18/11 at 1:40am
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