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Making a 650D look like terminators having a snake pit - Page 6

post #51 of 55
Thread Starter 
How can I cover the hole left over from removing the top sata port? Looks like the 360 rad shroud on top wont cover it.

I'm going to order a Koolance RP-452X2 in a few days thanks for your thousandth good tip in a row rognin thumb.gif
post #52 of 55
Unless you have already bought the 200mm rad, drop that idea.

I got 480mm Rad space and I am cooling 2 OC'd Graphics cards and a OC'd CPU from those with no problem. see my sig for pictures.
In your case, I would have a 240 rad in the top exhausting upwards, and then mod the bottomn of the 650D and fit a 240 down there exhausting downwards. and then mount the HDD's in the Drive bays with adapters

The yellow circle is the pump, and you dont have a res, but only a fill tube with a Y so that the water from the top rad can get back to the pump.

56633873.png


I believe this would be the best solution thumb.gif , though it requires you to dremel out holes in the bottomn of the 650D, but that is easy smile.gif
post #53 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norlig View Post

Unless you have already bought the 200mm rad, drop that idea.
I got 480mm Rad space and I am cooling 2 OC'd Graphics cards and a OC'd CPU from those with no problem. see my sig for pictures.
In your case, I would have a 240 rad in the top exhausting upwards, and then mod the bottomn of the 650D and fit a 240 down there exhausting downwards. and then mount the HDD's in the Drive bays with adapters
The yellow circle is the pump, and you dont have a res, but only a fill tube with a Y so that the water from the top rad can get back to the pump.
56633873.png
I believe this would be the best solution thumb.gif , though it requires you to dremel out holes in the bottomn of the 650D, but that is easy smile.gif

That looks like a high negative pressure air flow scheme. I personally steered the other way and put dust filters on all intakes (rads) and used only 4 exhaust fans (side panel). Not an iota of dust in the case. That solution closely resembles an 800d except the 360 up top.

Your setup however has 480mm of rad which equals 576cm^2 of rad space. Just enough for one CPU and two vid cards.

With what he wants to do, he gets 832cm^2 (assuming a 120, 240 and 200). That gives him the option to add another card without any worries. Again, it depends on what he wants. If he goes for the 200 and a 360, then he still gets his 832cm^2.

I went with a 280 on top a 120 on rear and a 200 up front and I get 936cm^2.
Edited by Rognin - 11/25/11 at 10:59am
Synthetic Anatomy
(14 items)
 
NAT-inator
(11 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7 2700K Z68X-UD7-B3 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 
GraphicsRAMRAMRAM
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 Corsair  Corsair  Corsair  
RAMHard DriveCoolingPower
Corsair  2x Mushkin 240Gb SSD Raid 0  A lot. ST1500 
CaseAudio
FT02 Xonar ST 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K P8P67 WS Revolution Sparkle Calibre GTX 560 G.Skill 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair Force SSD WD Caviar Black BD combo Liquid 
OSPowerCase
Win 7 Ultimate AX650 500R 
  hide details  
Reply
Synthetic Anatomy
(14 items)
 
NAT-inator
(11 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7 2700K Z68X-UD7-B3 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 
GraphicsRAMRAMRAM
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 Corsair  Corsair  Corsair  
RAMHard DriveCoolingPower
Corsair  2x Mushkin 240Gb SSD Raid 0  A lot. ST1500 
CaseAudio
FT02 Xonar ST 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K P8P67 WS Revolution Sparkle Calibre GTX 560 G.Skill 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair Force SSD WD Caviar Black BD combo Liquid 
OSPowerCase
Win 7 Ultimate AX650 500R 
  hide details  
Reply
post #54 of 55
Thread Starter 
Finally started building it!

Might have to rotate the CPU-370 counter clockwise to give the input a better shot at the rad ports to the top front of the case

Bad idea using a TMS-200 as the middle card between the 580's, looks to sandwiched to connect the sensors but not sure yet,

Of course I made the awful and stupid mistake of not plugging in the ROG logo connector before mounting the MB waterblock had to remove the whole thing and remount, LAME! The instructions for the for the MIPS ASUS MB waterblock are the worst, luckily performance PC's emailed me a digital copy because the sheet that came with the block was full of holes and to ratty to read- (even though I could read that I was supposed to plug the logo connector in that was bush lights fault for sure)

I used the temp sensors for the CPU that came with the MAX4 package accidentally instead of the one that came with the TMS-200, hoping that doesn't cause an unseen issue later,
338
post #55 of 55
Thread Starter 
Is there a way to take a planned approach to adding fittings vs tube? I want as little tube as possible but what I do use I want to use in a practical way, so I can see high higher risk areas of the loop that might have air pockets. Before rads and around the CPU block, (Thanks to all the help I have been receiving) I have come up with a loop plan. Now to figure out where I should put tube so I can plan fittings more precisely. Straight lines only with the tube for sure short runs I would imagine.
post script
I thought I knew but now I am seeing why this is a hobby and its awesome, thanks brothers!

Other things on my mind:
should I upgrade to the RP-452X2 v1.3 is it worth it?

What is the way to have my CPU-370 mounted to give easiest access to the input for a roof mounted rad with the fittings toward the front?

Should I remove the plastic cage mount box thing on the front bottom of the case behind the front fan to make way for a 120mm rad?

I have been looking in the forums for as many answers as possible if you know of answers already posted please let me know, thanks!
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