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What do you guys think about Adding dye to Liquid coolant? - Page 2

post #11 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by age_ruler1 View Post

Do you think This Liquid is okey?

I'm sure you could get distilled water at super markets, pharmacies and/or hardware shops in your area, just go pick some up, you don't need to buy coolant. Just get this to add to the water.
post #12 of 56
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Oh nice. That's much better. Thanks a lot and + rep!
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post #13 of 56
For the fluid just get some distilled water from the grocery store. Last time I was there Superama stocked it, I'm sure other places will too. Get some biocide from Frozen; either a Silver KillCoil or some Copper Sulphate solution if you are not using dyes.

Coloured tubing is a good way to go, and there are many reports of the tubing in the XSPC kits clouding very quickly anyway. Just be sure to replace it with the same size (7/16" x 5/8"). If you want some dyes have a look for Mayhem's dyes. They seem to be some of the best available and don't have issues with breaking down over time (so long as you don't run any copper sulphate biocide). They will still stain your tubing though, but that it not much of a problem if you never intend to change the colour.
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post #14 of 56
this. Local auto shops ALWAYS have distilled water (since often people very serious about cars, including myself, wont run tap water in there), but ive seen it a big supermarket stores as well. Do make sure it is distilled water though, bottled spring water still has tiny traces of bacteria and other impurities that love water cooling loops.

And get some Pt Nuke (or equivalent biocide) or a silver killcoil. Then just put either in your loop and your algae worries are over.

Many manufacturers will claim their coolant isnt conductive, and its often true to a degree. Distilled water is also non conductive (contrary to popular belief, water in its purest form doesnt conduct electricity, but all the small mineral impurities in regular water help it to conduct very well), but distilled water over time will pick up impurities from passing through your blocks and radiators. So far as i know, PC coolants will do the same, just to different degrees.

If your worried about leaks (understandable if its your first time), look for 7/16 inch Inner diameter tubing, and use it with 1/2 inch barbs/fittings. The tubing is typically to small for the barbs, but when boiled in water, will stretch over the barbs, then slowly contract over the barbs to form a seal so good that you don't even need to run clamps on the barbs to keep the seal tight, and often the only way to get the tubing off is by cutting it with a knife.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8278/ex-tub-435/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s809
Heres some 7/16 inch red tubing that should be just what your looking for. Good luck wink.gif
    
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post #15 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by GingerJohn View Post

For the fluid just get some distilled water from the grocery store. Last time I was there Superama stocked it, I'm sure other places will too. Get some biocide from Frozen; either a Silver KillCoil or some Copper Sulphate solution if you are not using dyes.
Coloured tubing is a good way to go, and there are many reports of the tubing in the XSPC kits clouding very quickly anyway. Just be sure to replace it with the same size (7/16" x 5/8"). If you want some dyes have a look for Mayhem's dyes. They seem to be some of the best available and don't have issues with breaking down over time (so long as you don't run any copper sulphate biocide). They will still stain your tubing though, but that it not much of a problem if you never intend to change the colour.

Every dye will drop eventually. Don't even bother with adding any type of dye or colored premix coolant to your loop. Trust me, cleaning up dropped dye out of CPU pins and rads is a pain.

Get distilled water from a grocery store/drug store and buy some biocide (if you need to cut corners you could use a biocide for fish aquariums that contains copper sulfate). However, distilled water only loops should really be using PT Nuke PHN (the clear forumla). You could also use a strip of .999 silver instead of a liquid biocide. Do not pay attention to anyone who tells you copper sulfate or kill coils destroys nickel plating...they are full of human excrement.
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post #16 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by _AKIMbO_ View Post

Do not pay attention to anyone who tells you copper sulfate or kill coils destroys nickel plating...they are full of human excrement.

yeah, that whole fiasco caused by EK. It was EK's own poor plating and they were using PTNuke or other biocides as their scapegoat.

anyways, ill leave it at that as otherwise the whole thread will be derailed
    
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post #17 of 56
Thread Starter 
Thanks a lot guys.

I think Later today I'll place the order. Many thanks!
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post #18 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caleal View Post

Pure distilled water is also non conductive, until it gets contaminated, picks up stray ions, etc., the exact same things will cause that expensive PrimoChill stuff to become conductive.

18.18 MΩ per cm, actually.
De-ionized water is really non-conductive, but it doesn't stay that way for very long, as it self-ionizes back to normal in a few hours.
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post #19 of 56
Kill coil and distilled water is the best option as everyone said. Just make sure the kill coil can't get into the pump and you are fine.
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post #20 of 56
Some are posting that "all dye is bad". I think that is an overreaction. I've run blue-colored Koolance fluid for years without any problem, without any need to clean or exchange.

OTOH, the Primochill dye was, at best, a waste of money. I don't know if it caused any problems yet.

Some also chant the mantra, "if you want color, use colored tubing", possibly with some dancing faces or other charms added. That is also over-stated, and annoying to those who want a more specific effect. The proper advice is, "consider colored tubing instead for the effect you want to achieve." Colored liquid is specifically good for finding spills and seeing where bubbles and voids are in the lines, and is why it was colored long before it became "art". I have a large visible reservoir and want to show the liquid level in it; colored tubing doesn't help there! So I'll be looking into a more reputable solution (pun intended).

The bottom line advice for dye: Primochill = bad, ruins the reputation of all color additives. Probably not even dye, but pigment? Mayhems has a solid reputation and a company presence here in the forums.

—John
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