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Massive TJ07 Build-Need help with WC and Sleeving

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Hey everyone,
I'm finally upgrading from my RV03 to a Silverstone TJ07 (I ordered it on Friday). I plan to do a complete rebuild of my WC loop over my Christmas break. I'm going to keep all of my hardware components from my sig and the loop is going to cool SLi 580s as well as an i7-2600k.

Here are the parts from my current loop that I plan to keep:
  • EK Supreme HF (Gold)
  • Swiftech MCP355 Pump
  • 2x Koolance VID-NX580

Here are the new parts that I'm getting:
I've always used 1/2"ID tubing in the past, I'm switching to 3/8"ID because they're out of stock of 1/2" tubing. Will my temps be similar or will they decrease due to the smaller tubing size? Are there any disadvantages to 3/8"ID tubing?

I'm slightly concerned about the radiator, from what I've seen, its impossible to do a push/pull on a thicker radiator (like the RX480) in a TJ07. Will a single RX480 be able to cool both of my GPUs and my CPU or should I add another radiator?

I also plan on sleeving my PSU, I've already ordered the sleeving and heatshrink. I am unsure about what tools I need to remove the wires from my PSU cables. Would I need a crimping tool and a pin remover?

Thanks to anyone who replies!!
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post #2 of 14
Won't notice any significant performance differences between tubing size. 3/8s is nice because it's generally cheaper, although the size of the case may dwarf the size of the tubing even more...

As for rads, the RX 480 should be more than enough, although make sure you can fit it in the bottom with enough clearance against your PSU... It might be worth trying out the new XSPC EX line with a 240 and a 480 in the bottom if the RX won't fit. You can always mount an RX240 up top IIRC.

Tons of possibilities to watercool this case. Sad that I sold mine, although it was just too big for my apartment!
Edited by Philth - 11/30/11 at 10:16am
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post #3 of 14
You'll need a pin remover for the various connectors in the PSU from the ATX pins to the molex pins to make the job easier. The ATX pins are the most difficult ones to remove and the crimping tool is useful for when (not if) you break them. I like the AC Ryan Molex pin remover as it's nice and simple example at http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2076 but you can also use a small screwdriver/paperclip with patience.

I use a MDPC-X crimping tool and once mastered is excellent. MDPC-X also stock some of the best sleeving and various pins, heatshrink etc. However Nils is ill so the shop is temporarily closed.

Edit: I was going to link to the MDPC-X ATX pin remover tool but it's similar in looks to this one http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2964
Edited by Big Elf - 11/30/11 at 11:19am
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post #4 of 14
The 480 will fit great in the bottom on the TJ07 and provide plenty of cooling power. I'm cooling a 2500k @ 5GHz and dual 6970 cards that are heavily overclocked on a single SR1 480MM with NB fans. The setup is almost silent and provides great temperatures throughout the year. You could add a 240MM rad in the bottom as well, but things will be tight.

Are you going to be running an inverted ATX setup, or the traditional layout?
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post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPARC_PWR View Post

The 480 will fit great in the bottom on the TJ07 and provide plenty of cooling power. I'm cooling a 2500k @ 5GHz and dual 6970 cards that are heavily overclocked on a single SR1 480MM with NB fans. The setup is almost silent and provides great temperatures throughout the year. You could add a 240MM rad in the bottom as well, but things will be tight.
Are you going to be running an inverted ATX setup, or the traditional layout?

I haven't gotten it yet, newegg shipped it 2 days ago. How much work is it to convert it to an inverted layout? The only mod that I've planned so far is to paint the interior black, I've contacted a number of local shops to see who much it would cost to get it powder coated. If thats too expensive then I'm going to spray paint it.
Quote:
You'll need a pin remover for the various connectors in the PSU from the ATX pins to the molex pins to make the job easier. The ATX pins are the most difficult ones to remove and the crimping tool is useful for when (not if) you break them. I like the AC Ryan Molex pin remover as it's nice and simple example at http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2076 but you can also use a small screwdriver/paperclip with patience.

I use a MDPC-X crimping tool and once mastered is excellent. MDPC-X also stock some of the best sleeving and various pins, heatshrink etc. However Nils is ill so the shop is temporarily closed.

I've already ordered my sleeving and heatshrink from FTWPC, I'm just wondering if those 2 tools that I linked are what I need.
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UNDER $1700!!!
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post #6 of 14
Both your links were to the crimping tool. I've only ever used the MDPC-X one but the one you linked to looks very similar although I can't tell from the picture whether it has a release lever which is essential to stop the tool compressing the crimp too much.
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post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Elf View Post

Both your links were to the crimping tool. I've only ever used the MDPC-X one but the one you linked to looks very similar although I can't tell from the picture whether it has a release lever which is essential to stop the tool compressing the crimp too much.

oops, sorry about that. I meant this tool.
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post #8 of 14
I use one similar to that for removing molex pins and it works fine. You'll also need the ATX pin removal tool similar to this for the other pins if you're dismantling all the cables for sleeving.
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post #9 of 14
Please dont tell me that you are going to use the half nickel plated version of that block.
post #10 of 14
I use the deluxe crimp tool from PPCs. It works great and is really easy to use. I use just staples and needle nose pliers to remove all of my ATX pins. I bought a tool once but it didn't work as well and I've gotten pretty quick with staples.

The inverted ATX mod is not hard to do because the TJ07 is setup for it. You'll need to remove some rivets and do a little modding, or you can buy a inverted ATX backplate online. It's a matter of preference and something very popular to do but it won' affect anything if you leave it in the stock configuration. Remember to save your hard drive cages when you remove them out of the bottom. With a little effort they can be relocated to the drive bays and look really nice.
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