11/16/13 - UPDATE
This update should have came about a week ago but I got completely swamped with work! So here it is
Package came in from Performance PCs. Had a couple difficulties getting the OCN member code to work on their site as well as accidentally ordering a few things but they handled the problems fast. I have had the best luck with them and recommend them to anyone else looking to get into watercooling.
These Monsta radiators are just that - monsters, and was thoroughly impressed with how well they are made. They are also pretty heavy! So I was a bit nervous about how heavy the build would get once it's full of water lol.
I had to remove the front 240 rad, and lift the false floor up to get the Monsta to fit underneath, and once I got it in and lower the false floor back down, it was literally a snug tight fit to the point where I did not even need to make brackets to secure it in place! I layered the sides of the Monsta with blue tape to protect the paint and good thing too.
Then it was time to mount the fans..
These Noiseblock eLoops are truly incredible fans. Completely silent when they run at 1200rpm and at full blast 1900rpm, the only noise you hear is wind noise because of how much air they're pushing lol.
Temps didn't really drop down, but now I am more confident about running multiple 7970s without Delta rising as much. I have much more heat dissipating capabilities with the Monsta and with how almost all of the radiators are running as intake from outside air, I am confident about using this case and it's radiators to cool future hardware, like if I go to socket 2011 or something.
The next thing I wanted to do is make a back plate for my sound card. Since all of my other cards will have back plates on them, it didn't make sense to me to have a sound card with its pcb bare.
Really happy with how it came out, especially when it took me about 15 minutes to make lol.
Another thing that was bothering me (and especially my friend) was the silver Danger Den 120mm fan grill that the D5 pump was mounted to; it was chrome and didn't look right stuck between two objects that were black. So the only solution: paint it
It looks so much better now!
Then it came time to finally figure out a solution to the back side plate and creating a properly vented solution for the radiators. My friend and I concluded that the 360 rad needed the most ventilation, as the Monsta didn't necessarily. What we decided was to cut the 480 rad grill so it matches the dimensions of the case floor and to cut out the whole section out on the door, while only cutting out vent slots for the Monsta. I didnt cut out the vent slots yet, but I did cut out the section for the 360 rad.
I'll probably end up painting it once the vent slots are cut. In the mean time I did a quick look at temps to see how they'd be without the vent slots for the 480, and surprisingly the temps seem the tiniest bit lower on average. I'll have to investigate why.
It looks much better with a back side panel on it. Now I just need to finish the front face plate
I also wanted to take care of the annoyingly bright post code LEDs, the red doesn't match the color scheme and it's so bright it stands out like crazy. So I went to the hobby store to pick up some transparent blue plastic sheeting, layered it to create a certain tint, and then double sided taped it onto the LEDs.
I think I could make it look a bit cleaner but for the mean time it is MUCH better than before.
So I had a couple different plans on what to get for hardware and using allotted money that I got from selling stuff until I came across this chair at Staples.
It was the most comfiest chair I've ever sat in. Mine desperately needed replacing as my back would start to hurt if I sat on it too long. So I pulled the trigger and gave in to the impulse buy. I don't regret it! Comfort level is over 9000!!!!!!!
Another issue I had needed to resolve was what ram to get. Originally I had decided to snag a 16gb Corsair Dominator Platinum kit since it would match up perfect with my build. But the more I read about them, the more I started to realize that you'd be lucky to get a particular binning and only those would overclock really well. And seeing as the base frequency of those kits really decides the cost, I figured the best one to get was the 1866mhz at 1.5v. I thought on this for a long time, mean while trying to sell my godlike Samsung 1600 kit. A couple people ended up private messaging me urging me not to sell the kit, that it's a great kit and they perform unlike any other kit, even the Dominator Platinums. So since they were currently in my rig at the time, I decided to see what kind of overclocking they could do.
In short, They are currently sitting at 2280mhz, timing is 10-11-11-28 2T at 1.515v. THAT'S INSANE.
The only bummer about that is, it's only an 8gb kit. I just cannot stay at 8gb. Especially when I read articles about how much ram BF4 uses. 16gb needs to be the baseline. But how in the heck was I going to find another kit like mine? NO ONE wants to give up theirs, and now I know why. But by sheer luck, I found another kit on ebay. 80 bucks shipped. Bought it instantly. And it's going to be here next week
So, great. I'll have 16gb of the god like Samsung ram. But in terms of aesthetics, it's nothing special at all. Super low profile, makes it look likes there's not even a stick of ram in the dimm slots to begin with, and no heat spreaders.
With all the work I've done to the build, I definitely want something aesthetically pleasing. Even if they're simple memory sticks.
So I think I have a plan on how to pull off watercooling them.
Bitspower has a heat spreader kit that works with any ram waterblock kit. My plan is to get those, and mount them on EK's Monarch X4 block. I'll have to buy the "clean" CSQ top separate but it'll match the cpu block which seems great to me. However, I will need to cut a portion of the Bitspower heat spreader off as to lower the "ceiling" on them so that the Samsung sticks will work.
I made a quick paint job to show exactly what needs to happen:
The top part of the ram that is 10mm is not existent with the Samsung sticks. So I'll need to cut off the lower section on the heat spreaders to accommodate it. Problem is the measurements aren't exactly matching up. But it'll be close to 1-2mm difference. I'll make it work.
In the mean time, I took some photos of the rig last night that I thought would be nice to post.
Here it is, so far:
More content coming soon