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What is the straight dope on Coolant Recipies?

post #1 of 15
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The dogma normally trotted out in this forum is "Plain water is best; add Copper Sulfate or bulk Silver". Dyes (or colorants that pretend to be dye) are the subject of another thread. Here I want to raise issues of additives that have engineering purpose.

The standard dogma is wrong. Adding copper sulfate will react to nickel and other metals, at the very least leading to the copper you added being removed and replaced with other kinds of ions. Now I might try to avoid nickle, but the radiators are made of brass (not pure copper), and the plating on connectors is who-knows-what. Also, what is in contact inside the pump?

So I think that it would be best to not add oxidizing agents but do add some kind of reducing agent, or some other additive that will function as an anti-corrosive. Something that can be bought cheaply in concentrated form and added to locally-bought distilled water.

Meanwhile, with that in the water along with being in contact with all that copper, and the lack of biological material in the water, isn't enough to prevent algae and fungi from growing, what can be done there that (again) won't simply be removed by other processes or cause issues?

In short, what are good, scientifically sound, recipes for coolant?

No dogma allowed. Any suggestions must include a proper reason, not just repeating what you've heard.

—John
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post #2 of 15
In short your never gone to get the right answer here lol ask a chemist or metallurgist and let us know till then I will stick with what i have
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post #3 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Los Hog View Post

In short your never gone to get the right answer here l^ol ask a chemist or metallurgist and let us know till then I will stick with what i have

^this x3
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post #4 of 15
just use a kill coil and anti-corrosion chemicals sold for water cooling... as a general rule this will keep anything from growing and your blocks from corroding... i think that anybody on here that can answer your question, probably wont as they are probably a chemist and dont want to think about work tongue.gif... im sub'd to see what answers you get anyways though smile.gif

EDIT: i hide the kill coil inside tubes or (if they are clear) put it in some place that look kinda "artistic" so it doesnt look so dab smile.gif
Edited by eskamobob1 - 12/7/11 at 3:50pm
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post #5 of 15
I just use distilled water, nothing else in it. I do use a filter in both of my rigs tho which I empty every now and then. Never had any build up. I used to use a kill coil with distilled, but it was ugly so I removed it.
 
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post #6 of 15
For the Laing DDC series pump material that touches the fluid in the loop is as follows:

Pump basin mid-section -> PBT+30GF
White spherical ball -> harden polished ceramic

Pump cover top -> PBT+30GF newer models / older models ABS+20GF

Pump impeller -> base and blade vanes
Impeller base -> stainless steel. Inside is ferrite iron (magnetic material) in potted epoxy.
Impeller blade vanes -> plastic ABS+20GF

Oring -> EPDM (Ethylene Propylene, EPM)

wink.gif


700
Edited by bmaverick - 12/7/11 at 6:46pm
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post #7 of 15
As for coolant, most were DIY blends in the pre-2003 days.

Most of the popular coolants in the pre-2003 days were ...

EG Glycol + DI water or Distilled Water.

Some added Water-wetter. After a few years and more information was proven, water-wetter didn't provide any benefits since the heat load and heat dump were not hot enough nor did the temperature raise quick enough for it to do any good.

Many of the OEMs like Dell, HP, NEC, and others used a common mixture of Propylene Glycol+Distilled Water+Corrosion Inhibitor package. The reason being, many used mixed metals in the loops. These loops are mostly working today without issues.

On company used a really proprietary coolant extremely customized. It was Apple and the 1st WCing generation of the G5. The coolant was a saline solution unbalanced pH+distilled water+corrosion inhibitors. However and this can be verified, the coolant proved to be corrosive when exposed to air and metals. The second generation coolant was more like the rest of the OEMs listed above.

Many of the pre-2003 era loops were mixed metals from various sources and small kits. Some of the RADs were 80x80x25mm with blocks like the DD Maze-3.
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post #8 of 15
I am going to be using Distilled + Mayhems Biocide. Just using the Biocide to prevent algae and bacteria buildup so my rig does not smell like my feet do after a 5K run.

My Scientific Method Response = Distilled + Mayhems wont cause more corrosion than just DI, Will prevent Bacterial/Algae buildup since the buggers love warm wet places. I had asked a Metalurgist and a Chemist about this recently, and they both agreed that the silver killcoil is going to make stuff react somewhere. But they also said to get the copper out of the loop and just use a nickel plated block if possible. I asked why, and they had said over time copper will pit at the microscopic level. When I asked how long this will take to occur, they said 10+ years. So I was not to worried.
post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJM View Post

I am going to be using Distilled + Mayhems Biocide. Just using the Biocide to prevent algae and bacteria buildup so my rig does not smell like my feet do after a 5K run.

My Scientific Method Response = Distilled + Mayhems wont cause more corrosion than just DI, Will prevent Bacterial/Algae buildup since the buggers love warm wet places. I had asked a Metalurgist and a Chemist about this recently, and they both agreed that the silver killcoil is going to make stuff react somewhere. But they also said to get the copper out of the loop and just use a nickel plated block if possible. I asked why, and they had said over time copper will pit at the microscopic level. When I asked how long this will take to occur, they said 10+ years. So I was not to worried.

That is very interesting as many people (including myself) recommend to stay away from nickel as it can corrode rather easily (I say this genuinely as I can see how it could come off snotty)... But then also, wouldn't pitting make more suffer area making it more effective? tongue.gif lol... But now I'm genuinely curious as nickel is supose to be a corrosion inhibitor in most cases... I'm gunna ask my chemist buddy tomorrow how I would get around/ what could be causing the nickel corrosion smile.gif
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post #10 of 15
Many of my friends have been using Feser Base Corrosion Blocker with distilled water and have had no issues with algae growth with their EK blocks, Feser Base Corrosion Blocker is only for distilled water and nothing else!
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