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250w peak subs?

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know of subwoofer drivers that take a peak 250w? I can only find 250W RMS, and wanted to go with dual subs on a single 500w amp. If not, then would a single 500w peak sub sound about the same as 2 lower powered ones, better, or worse?
I don't have a 500w amp right now, but I was going to pick one up when i got the drivers.
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post #2 of 21
RMS is a far superior measurement of speaker power when comparing to peak.. doh.gif
post #3 of 21
I am not following--you want speakers that can handle 250w peak, or you want an amplifier that will output 250w peak?

I would say generally, a single higher powered channel tends to sound better than two lower powered channels.

What's the RMS rating of the amplifier you're using?

Generally it doesn't matter if a speaker's rated tolerance is below an amp's rated nominal output--only the opposite is important, that the amplifier doesn't exceed the rated tolerance of the speaker.

Apologies if I sound like I'm babbling, but I'm not quite understanding what it is you're looking for.
    
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post #4 of 21
You have a misunderstanding regarding the importance of matching wattage ratings. Practically speaking there is no need to concern yourself with doing so. Most speakers are blown as a result of lousy quality amplificationor over-excursion rather than a power handling issue. Keep in mind that power handling ratings on speakers have to do with thermal power handling. Most woofer designs have more thermal power handling than they will ever be operated at unless stuffed in a very small sealed enclosure (which acts as a major damper to efficiency).

To answer your question regarding whether it is better to go with 2 lower powered subs or a single higher powered sub consider the following:

A single "heavy duty" sub will generally have pretty low efficiency as a result of it's long throw configuration (less of the voice coil can be used at any given time, so more energy is wasted to heat in these designs). 80-85db@1W@1M is a pretty common range of efficiency for long throw "high power handling" subs. The really radical long-throw designs are often even below 80db@1w@1M efficient. On the other hand, a shorter throw (less heavy duty) sub will generally have efficiency in the 86-92db @1w@1M (or better in the case of larger sizes and drivers designed with efficiency in mind). Every time you double the number of speakers, you gain ~3DB efficiency as well, so going from 1 "heavy duty" low efficiency sub to a pair of "light duty" higher efficiency subs can improve efficiency by anywhere from 6-10db or better. A 6db change in listening level requires a quadrupling of amplifier power, 10db requires 10X the amplifier power.

In other words, a 500W amp on a single long throw woofer will often play about as loud as a 50W amp driving a pair of more typical woofers.

Technically speaking, it's very possible for a single long throw woofer to play very nice and loud, but achieving loud listening levels will just require a lot more amplification power.

Smaller speakers in smaller boxes require more power to play loud than bigger speakers in bigger boxes. By a very significant margin in most cases.

So... you ask which is better? That depends on your definition of better smile.gif The long throw woofer shoved in a tiny box powered by a big amp is usually more expensive all around because the woofer will be very pricey, the amp will be pricey, and you'll need some seriously heavy wire running to the amp which is also pricey, however, the compact expensive solution will leave you with a lot more trunk space. A larger box with a pair of reasonably priced woofers and a small amp will cost a lot less all around but will leave you with very little trunk space.

Eric
Edited by mdocod - 12/7/11 at 11:04pm
     
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post #5 of 21
Thread Starter 
Well to answer the first response, it would be on 500w of battery power, and thats as much as it could be. And thanks for the explanation mdocod, I'm a complete newbie with pretty much anything to do with audio if you couldn't already tell biggrin.gif Rep+ to you.
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post #6 of 21
If you want some suggestions on box/speaker options let me know your budget.
     
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post #7 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

If you want some suggestions on box/speaker options let me know your budget.

I would probably be making the box myself, so that wouldn't be an issue. Probably about 150$ total excluding the box. I would need to know how big of a box i need for what ever driver i get.
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post #8 of 21
Cool.. building yourself gives you some freedom to take advantage of more effective/efficient driver options as well as improving efficiency further in some cases with properly vented and tuned designs.

Is the $150 budget for the drivers alone or for both the drivers and amp?
What sort of space do you have for the box? Are you hoping to keep the box size to a minimum or can you sacrifice a a decent chunk of cubic footage? There is a lot of flexibility here just keep in mind that a smaller box is going to reduce the efficiency.
     
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post #9 of 21
$150 total isn't going to get you even a budget good sub, amp, and wiring.

And how do you know the battery is 500w peak? What's your alternator? Wiring under the hood? Battery specs? Chances are....you could PROBABLY run around 500w RMS safely off your stock electrical, if done correctly.

And never NEVER judge by peak power ratings. Even the RMS ratings can be blown out of proportion slightly, but they're a far superior way of judging power handling. So you need to focus on power (RMS), and the impedance of your sub(s), and what kind of load the amp will take. And obviously your car's electrical system will be important to take into consideration.
Edited by pioneerisloud - 12/8/11 at 8:30pm
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post #10 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

Cool.. building yourself gives you some freedom to take advantage of more effective/efficient driver options as well as improving efficiency further in some cases with properly vented and tuned designs.

Is the $150 budget for the drivers alone or for both the drivers and amp?
What sort of space do you have for the box? Are you hoping to keep the box size to a minimum or can you sacrifice a a decent chunk of cubic footage? There is a lot of flexibility here just keep in mind that a smaller box is going to reduce the efficiency.

The 150$ budget would be for the driver and the amp/wiring. I could probably stretch it to 200$ if needed. I can also sacrifice a good chunk of cubic footage as you say. This is not for a car, as people seemed to assume right away, and the 500w battery pack I was talking about is a battery pack. Not a car battery, or alternator. An independent battery pack, which I know for sure to be around 500w at peal output.
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