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Last two questions before I water cool

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Ok this is the last two questions I think I will have about watercooling before I actually go and do it.

1) The first question is when I fill up my res with water how far do I fill it up before I start to let the water go into the system? Also how do you get the water to go through the pump with out actually turning everything on? You don't want to be running the harware if no water is reaching those parts you'll be running it dry and it will overheat. Is there a way to run just the pump so it will start to fill the loop with water?

2) I wanted to put a 3/8" tube on a 1/2" tube. The barb is bigger then the tube so I saw on here you can dip the tubing in boiling water to make it easier to get on. How long do you have to keep the tubing in the water. I don't want to weaken or deform the tubing.
     
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post #2 of 12
1. You can fill the res up as full as you like. The key is to always have enough water in the res to feed the pump, you never want to let your pump run dry. Also, the way you run the pump without turning everything else on is to leave everything in your case unplugged from the PSU. Then you stick a paperclip into the 24pin mobo power cable bridging the green wire and a black ground wire. The power supply checks this gap and will not power on unless the green wire and black ground wire are bridged.

There's a guide here http://aphnetworks.com/lounge/turn_on_psu_without_motherboard_the_paperclip_trick

2. You will want to use 7/16'' tubing over 1/2'' barbs. It is super tight, and no clamps are necessary so long as you use good barbs (I use Bitspower.) You only need to boil the end of the tube for a minute or so until it is a little softer and more flexible.

PROTIP: Put a tiny, tiny amount of dishsoap on the inside of the tube to use as a lubricant to slip over the barb. It makes life so much easier and will slide right on. If you don't use the lube, they're tough to slide on.
post #3 of 12
post #4 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDS1220 View Post

1) The first question is when I fill up my res with water how far do I fill it up before I start to let the water go into the system? Also how do you get the water to go through the pump with out actually turning everything on? You don't want to be running the harware if no water is reaching those parts you'll be running it dry and it will overheat. Is there a way to run just the pump so it will start to fill the loop with water?

As others have said, fill your res up to near the top and start the pump. I would always leave some air gap, or cap the res, before starting the pump. Sometimes the water can come out of the top of the res when things start moving. Either keep your res topped up as you run the pump or turn the pump off, top up the res, and run the pump again.

The paperclip trick (described above) is the normal way to do it. I actually have a 12v transformer lying around which I use, makes things a whole lot easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RDS1220 View Post

2) I wanted to put a 3/8" tube on a 1/2" tube. The barb is bigger then the tube so I saw on here you can dip the tubing in boiling water to make it easier to get on. How long do you have to keep the tubing in the water. I don't want to weaken or deform the tubing.

I would go for 7/16" on 1/2" barbs or 3/8" on 7/16" barbs. 3/8" on 1/2" barbs is doable but involves stretching the tubing a lot. I have done it before and it is a pain to get on, even with lots of hot water. You are not going to damage the tubing by leaving it in hot water for a while.

Some tubing might not like doing the 3/8" on 1/2" long term, I can imagine some of the weaker or brittle tubing splitting due to the stress on it, especially given the temperature fluctuations. Please note that this is my opinion only and is not backed by and tests or data.
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post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
OK thanks. The problem is all swift tech pumps use a 1/2 inch barb so thats why I was going to do the 1/2 barbs.
     
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post #6 of 12
use 7/16 tubing..and double zip-ties to secure them..biggrin.gif alternate where the lock-part is 180 degrees
 
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post #7 of 12
Doesn't putting soap on your tube make it easy to slip off even when clamped? And wouldn't it be a huge pain to pull tubes off the fittings once on there since you can't easly re-heat the tube?
Seems to be unnecessary hassle.. Why not correct fittings for the tube or correct tube for the fittings?
post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDS1220 View Post

OK thanks. The problem is all swift tech pumps use a 1/2 inch barb so thats why I was going to do the 1/2 barbs.

I would use a 1/2 id tubing because fitting 7/16 tubing over 1/2 od barbs will work but the inlet and outlet on a pump are not barbs and wil be extra had to get on. I have tried this on a 655 pump and had lot of problems lol
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post #9 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDS1220 View Post

OK thanks. The problem is all swift tech pumps use a 1/2 inch barb so thats why I was going to do the 1/2 barbs.

That's why you buy a custom pump top, so that you can thread in any size barb you want. I use an EK pump top on a swiftech 355 pump.

Also, your build is going to look a lot cleaner if you aren't zip tying hose to your barbs. Hell, I'd be more afraid that they would leak that way.
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
O I didn't know you could take off the top of the pump and replace it. Is that for all swiftech pumps or only certain ones like the one you have?
     
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