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final WC build check!

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
hey guys, i had started a thread a couple months ago about suggested parts for my WC set up. But recently i got my hands on a 2700k (thank you intel retail edge! thumb.gif )... so now i came up with a new list. What do you think guys? am i good to pull the trigger?


338





thanks yo! lol
    
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post #2 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCrowley428 View Post

hey guys, i had started a thread a couple months ago about suggested parts for my WC set up. But recently i got my hands on a 2700k (thank you intel retail edge! thumb.gif )... so now i came up with a new list. What do you think guys? am i good to pull the trigger?
338
thanks yo! lol

Get rid of that Koolance Rad, its a PITA to bleed, and only causes problems. Grab an EK Spin Acetyl if you like the black look.

Get 10 Ft of tubing, not 3. Your shooting yourself in the foot with that.

Your missing about 6 Barbs for your tubing, as well as re-usable clamps to make sure they dont back of and your loop ends up skull-effing you in the face because you didnt spend an extra 10$ on clamps.

Overall, looks decent. What will you be using as fans, and why are you watercooling the motherboard as well? Looking to go over 4.6 GHZ on water?

As well, look into different pumps, those are retarded for what you are doing. You might be bogging them down. Liang DDC 1-Ts with an XSPC Serial Top would work fine.

Top = http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_769&products_id=26241
Pumps = http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=32773

This will give you plenty of head pressure @ 75% #1 and 50% #2 to contend with both of those rads and that restrictive Heatkiller & Mobo block if you want to keep the mobo block.
Edited by PeteJM - 12/7/11 at 11:16pm
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
well it is OCN so yaa 4.6ghz is a good start lol biggrin.gif,, and ya i saw some vids on the tube saying that even filling the res and getting rid of air is a pain.. but i was looking for something that housed the dual pumps you know?, if i go with the ek one can i have the pumps located outside the res?
    
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post #4 of 17
Nice gear! Your cart says you are buying three gpu waterblocks, btw.
If you don't already own it, I'd add a fill/drain port. The Danger Den one works really nice.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_342&zenid=e239d6a8c5e8ee4e62366e3f92e78d0a

I have the same pump and have my res go to a T fitting just before the pump intake - one leg goes to the drain port, the other the pump. Makes maintenace so nice and easy and safe.
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post #5 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCrowley428 View Post

well it is OCN so yaa 4.6ghz is a good start lol biggrin.gif,, and ya i saw some vids on the tube saying that even filling the res and getting rid of air is a pain.. but i was looking for something that housed the dual pumps you know?, if i go with the ek one can i have the pumps located outside the res?

Yes, You are going to have to have them outside of the res. This is a good thing on this type of loop because you are going to need to feed it a bunch of water to get all the bubbles out of those rads. This loop might hold about a gallon of water total in the end. Having it up high making sure the pumps have enough feed is essential when you are trying essentially to pump liquid up-hill (through restrictions)

Once again, you need more tubing, more barbs, and to QC your cart better.
post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 
yaaa man gotta cool three flashed 6950's haha,, and yaa almost forgot about that thumb.gif.. this is my first attempt at it so disregard my noob moments ha

@peteJM.... thanks for the input, I cudnt estimate the tubing aspect of it.. how much would you say is a good amount for this?... im gonna choose my entire fittings tomorrow or something ha
Edited by MrCrowley428 - 12/7/11 at 11:22pm
    
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post #7 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCrowley428 View Post

yaaa man gotta cool three flashed 6950's haha,, and yaa almost forgot about that thumb.gif.. this is my first attempt at it so disregard my noob moments ha

D worry. One thing I would really suggest if this is your 1st WC loop. Start out tiny and just do the CPU and research stuff for some time before you WC the whole thing.

But, we can be very patient, so dont worry. Take it slow, and if you have problems, dont rush through trying to fix them. Take a step back, and breathe for 30 min and come back to it fresh.

What is this loop going to look like when it is done?

Res - Pump - Mobo - Cpu - Rad - GPU - Rad - Res?
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
well the good thing is I have some friends that are guiding me through it, so they'll prolly do the majority of the work lol.. and yaaa thats the layout i was looking at more or less man.
    
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post #9 of 17
The DDC-1T pump has 3/8 barbs, so unless you change tops or get 1/2 to 3/8 reducers you need to change tubing and at least two fittings.
Get the 655 - 1/2 barbs, 5 speeds and lots of pressure head - which you will need with all the gear you have. Every block, fitting, sharp bend cuts into your pressure. Strong pumps are your friend.

If you haven't picked fans yet, Scythe Gentle Typhoons are awesome. Scythe S-Flex E's, Yate Loons, etc all work well.

My first loop had 5 water blocks, 2 radiators, a res and a pump. Just buy lots of tubing, TAKE YOUR TIME, very carefully cut your tubing, avoid kinks, lock each cable down (I like zip ties, very easy to use and remove), add some Feser1 to your deionized water (mix it correctly) and then have fun bleeding it.
PeteJM has a good point, but if you are patient, methodical and really pay attention as you go, you should be all right.

I recommend against the mobo waterblock - they were needed on socket 775 mobo's like my 780i, but they aren't really needed on SB systems. More hassle than they are worth.

Make sure everything works first - once you are up and running on water it gets really difficult to trouble shoot.

Good luck and have fun
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post #10 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fan o' water View Post

The DDC-1T pump has 3/8 barbs, so unless you change tops or get 1/2 to 3/8 reducers you need to change tubing and at least two fittings.

Did you even bother reading my 1st response? Running 2 DDCs in Serial + Fan Controller would solve that issue. The 3/8 Barbs are going to reduce his flow by 25% over using 1/2" ID Barbs/Tubing. With this much hardware, he is going to need as much water to absorb heat as possible IMHO.

But, im all for experiments smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCrowley428 View Post

yaaa man gotta cool three flashed 6950's haha,, and yaa almost forgot about that thumb.gif.. this is my first attempt at it so disregard my noob moments ha
@peteJM.... thanks for the input, I cudnt estimate the tubing aspect of it.. how much would you say is a good amount for this?... im gonna choose my entire fittings tomorrow or something ha

Your best idea is to take the amount of tubing you think you will need and double it. Then draw your loop, and double it again. Its why you had 3, and I recommended 10.

For fittings, I really suggest going with Bitspower 1/2" ID Barbs with Clamps, and not the neat little compression fittings. You will save yourself on average 50% going with barbs instead of compression fittings.

dont forget to plumb in a T fitting for draining the loop, this will save your but when doing maintenance to the loop.
Edited by PeteJM - 12/7/11 at 11:48pm
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