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Do these temps look good?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I made a thread earlier about a major temp issue, since it was resolved I think it's just best for me to make a new thread for this so people don't try to fix an issue that doesn't exist anymore. Being rather new to watercooling i'm just not sure what to expect. So here it goes...


Here's my temps after 1 hour of IntelBurnTest:
Temps.png 36k .png file

My Noctua D14 was getting ~85C on these same settings, so there definitely is a major improvement but I'm still only pumping 1.325v through the processor and both these solutions seem like they should be getting ~5C - ~10C lower temps with that many volts into a i7 920. Overclock3D shows the RS360 (the RX360's little brother) getting 20C better temps than the D14 with worse fans and a worse pump. Although, they have 1.46v running through their i7 950 and claiming a mere 88C on the D14 (I believe it was 72C on the RS360). These numbers are way off from anything i've seen, 1.46v through my 920 would result in 100C+ easily on my old D14. So i'm skeptical on his results, unless this CPU is just a dud.

I have reseated/reapplied thermal paste 4 times and each time results in the same temps, and thermal paste looks great when I remove the heatsink. There is still some little air bubbles in the water that take a week or so to disappear, so that will hopefully drop them a little.

Anyway, would you consider these temps good for this watercooling setup with 1.325v on the i7 920? I was expecting a tad better, but maybe I was expecting to much.. 15C off the "arguably best" air cooler is a pretty big improvement.

CPU Block: XSPC Rasa Black (Acetal)
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 (I've got it set to 4 out of 5 for speed setting)
Radiator: XSPC Rasa RX360
Case Fans: 3x 140mm Noiseblocker PK-3
Radiator Fans: 3x 120mm Noiseblocker PL-2

Thanks.
Edited by Murlocke - 12/9/11 at 1:35am
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post #2 of 10
Something seems off as I know the RX360 is a great radiator that should dissipate the heat pretty well. And ambient temperatures play a huge part. And I highly doubt that they would get 88C max load pushing 1.46V through an i7 on a Noctua NH-D14 as I put in 1.35V and the temps get in the 80s. Some possible causes could be seating of the waterblock, thermal paste application, pump failure, fans might not be optimized for the radiator? and Also are you do push/pull setup for the radiator?
Edited by bom - 12/9/11 at 1:54am
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post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bom View Post

Something seems off as I know the RX360 is a great radiator that should dissipate the heat pretty well. And ambient temperatures play a huge part. And I highly doubt that they would get 88C max load pushing 1.46V through an i7 on a Noctua NH-D14 as I put in 1.35V and the temps get in the 80s. Some possible causes could be seating of the waterblock, thermal paste application, pump failure, fans might not be optimized for the radiator?

I pushed 1.325v through my i7 920 on my D14 (stock fans) inside a Antec 1200 and got ~85C with coretemp/intelburntest for over a year. Since the D14 was running hotter than normal, and now this is running hotter than normal.. it seems my CPU just runs hotter than normal or something.

I reseat my D14 about a million times using various methods for the thermal paste, and also attempted to get help with that situation.. I ended up just dealing with it.

I resat this one 5 times and temps are the exact same everytime.

I assume you are testing with LinX/IntelBurnTest? Prime95 doesn't get it as hot. You aren't using a Sandy Bridge either? Since those run quite a bit cooler..

My temps are always on the hot side and my house is set to 66F, colder than most. /shrug
Edited by Murlocke - 12/9/11 at 2:29am
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post #4 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlocke View Post

I pushed 1.325v through my i7 920 on my D14 (stock fans) inside a Antec 1200 and got ~85C with coretemp/intelburntest for over a year. Since the D14 was running hotter than normal, and now this is running hotter than normal.. it seems my CPU just runs hotter than normal or something.
I reseat my D14 about a million times using various methods for the thermal paste, and also attempted to get help with that situation.. I ended up just dealing with it.
I resat this one 5 times and temps are the exact same everytime.
I assume you are testing with LinX/IntelBurnTest? Prime95 doesn't get it as hot. You aren't using a Sandy Bridge either? Since those run quite a bit cooler..
My temps are always on the hot side and my house is set to 66C, colder than most. /shrug

when you say your house is set at 66C i take it thats FH biggrin.gif
Looking at your image, i reckon thoose temps are fine for Bloomfield at 100% load thumb.gif
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post #5 of 10
Those temps don't seem bad, a bit higher than what they should be maybe, but I don't think there are significant advances to be made lightly (aka, you could try lapping)

Other than that, ambient would probably make the biggest difference so maybe think about where you're drawing air from and see if you can cool that down.

Either way, you still have headroom on your temps for more OC thumb.gif
    
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post #6 of 10
You do have a problem if you have air bubbles after a week, you are definitely doing something wrong. I takes me less than 5 minutes to get rid of all my air bubbles in my loop, do to inexperience you must have more air trapped in your radiators! You shouldn't be turning you computer upside down to remove air in your loop, you just don't do that. The first time you had problems you did a remount and all of a sudden your temps improved, I don't believe you have enough pressure on your CPU block.

In the previous thread more than one person stated that it was as if you forgot to remove the sticker from the bottom on the CPU block, so that got me thinking, what if your CPU block had not enough pressure to start with. I put a lot of pressure on my CPU block! When the screws feel tight and are close to not being able to turn much anymore I stop and leave it there. I think because of your inexperience you should be doing some more research, start here.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

You do have a problem if you have air bubbles after a week, you are definitely doing something wrong. I takes me less than 5 minutes to get rid of all my air bubbles in my loop, do to inexperience you must have more air trapped in your radiators! You shouldn't be turning you computer upside down to remove air in your loop, you just don't do that. The first time you had problems you did a remount and all of a sudden your temps improved, I don't believe you have enough pressure on your CPU block.
In the previous thread more than one person stated that it was as if you forgot to remove the sticker from the bottom on the CPU block, so that got me thinking, what if your CPU block had not enough pressure to start with. I put a lot of pressure on my CPU block! When the screws feel tight and are close to not being able to turn much anymore I stop and leave it there. I think because of your inexperience you should be doing some more research, start here.

There's no way, unless your using some other solution and putting it in the distilled water, that'd you would have no bubbles after 5 minutes. I'm talking tiny air bubbles that attach themselves all over the res, and in some tubes. Pretty much every guide i've read says they are normal and go away after a few days, or at the most a week. I just set this loop up today and I can already see them disappearing. Air bubbles that are large enough that they don't attach themselves to tubing/res/radiator I got out after setting the loop up.

As for air in the radiator, i'm 99% sure I got it all out. I tilted it back and forth and my res is not going down anymore. I don't hear water moving in the radiator anymore when I move the case around like I did before. I did it for a long time after I stopped hearing water sounds, just to make sure.

As for the CPU block, I turned them until I could not turn them anymore with my hands. I did two at a time, opposite corners of each other, and tried to keep them as even as possible. If anything there is too much pressure under the cpu block. wink.gif

The only reason I turned the case upside down was because whenever I did it I could hear the water moving in the radiator. after I turned it upside down then tilted it, the sound went away, and I turned the case right side up again. I don't know why I needed to do this, but simply tilting the case left and right didn't seem to get out that last air pocket in the radiator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stubass View Post

when you say your house is set at 66C i take it thats FH biggrin.gif
Looking at your image, i reckon thoose temps are fine for Bloomfield at 100% load thumb.gif

lol, didn't mean to say 66C, yes house is at 66F.

That's my thoughts too. It seems many people:
1) Don't go by core temps which are hotter.
2) Use Prime95 which on average is a good 5-10C colder than Linpack stress tests.

It makes it hard to compare with others because many people also exaggerate their temps.
Edited by Murlocke - 12/9/11 at 2:30am
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post #8 of 10
When I say that I get all of the air out of system I mean the big gulps of air are all gone, sure I have tiny bubbles in my res but after a few hours there gone. Now if you have some sort of vibration this could cause bubbles to form in your system, I think it's time for some pictures of your loop.
post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

When I say that I get all of the air out of system I mean the big gulps of air are all gone, sure I have tiny bubbles in my res but after a few hours there gone. Now if you have some sort of vibration this could cause bubbles to form in your system, I think it's time for some pictures of your loop.

My tiny bubbles are almost completely gone after 4 hours.

I posted a picture of the loop in the other thread.. not really a close up of anything tho. It goes pump/res (same device) > radiator > cpu block > pump/res again. Very basic loop. I do need to get a 140mm fan grill though so I don't need to zip tie that tube to the other tube, however that's not hurting the flow any and there are no kinks.
IMG_0001.JPG 477k .JPG file
Edited by Murlocke - 12/9/11 at 2:38am
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post #10 of 10
cool, this is similar setup i want for my CPU and i canbt see i problem with this water set up... as before your temps seem fine thumb.gif
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