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post #11 of 24
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the advice. Slushy? we talking DICE or LN? I'm not sure I can keep up with that day in and day out..lol.

Also, these are in a cold basement with ambient of about 15c at most it gets to18-20c in the summer. So I assume watercooling would work great if done properly.

The idea is to get this beast running stable and leave it be. I actually have two rigs with 4x5970's. I don't want to beat on them by running them full bore with stock cooling because I want to use them later for gaming builds. There are four of us involved that plan on breaking down these rigs after we get 50% payback. Then I get to build four water cooled beasts for gaming wink.gif

PM me if you have questions about mining.
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post #12 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by eskamobob1 View Post

if you have prity high speed fans (like 100CFM minimum) you could do it with 2 240s... what was said above abount where rads are doesnt matter isnt rue... you would benfit from having 2 cards rad 2 card rad... the least i would go if you plan to OC is 2x 360s (high FPI and high CFM)... as for mining... may i ask y still? do you like the project? i have 4x 5870s and 1x 5850 and i want even pushing 1 BTC a week twoards when i stopped (was at like 10 a day when i started though tongue.gif)... as for punmps i would use the 35x as you want the most head preasure for the littlest heat dump for you aplication... also, have you thought about going slushy? 5970s soar from my experence when you get them cold smile.gif


What I bolded is wrong. Water reaches and equilibrium within the loop. The cards can't heat up the water fast enough to have a noticeable difference (maybe 2-3 degrees on the last card max!) when configured in series. If you run them in parallel, you will NOT have a temp difference, and it'll increased flow rate.

LOOP ORDER IS NOT IMPORTANT! (except Res -> Pump)
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post #13 of 24
^ So right but everyone always finds out the hard way lol
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post #14 of 24
Thread Starter 
So I could probably use one of those monster 2x480 all in one rads? That would work much better for me. I could mount it behind the cards outside of the case and just put 8 fans on it and let it rip.

Thanks.
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post #15 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by eskamobob1 View Post

if you have prity high speed fans (like 100CFM minimum) you could do it with 2 240s... what was said above abount where rads are doesnt matter isnt rue... you would benfit from having 2 cards rad 2 card rad... the least i would go if you plan to OC is 2x 360s (high FPI and high CFM)... as for mining... may i ask y still? do you like the project? i have 4x 5870s and 1x 5850 and i want even pushing 1 BTC a week twoards when i stopped (was at like 10 a day when i started though tongue.gif)... as for punmps i would use the 35x as you want the most head preasure for the littlest heat dump for you aplication... also, have you thought about going slushy? 5970s soar from my experence when you get them cold smile.gif


What I bolded is wrong. Water reaches and equilibrium within the loop. The cards can't heat up the water fast enough to have a noticeable difference (maybe 2-3 degrees on the last card max!) when configured in series. If you run them in parallel, you will NOT have a temp difference, and it'll increased flow rate.

LOOP ORDER IS NOT IMPORTANT! (except Res -> Pump)

In most cases I agree, but OP is cooling 8x 5870s... It will eventually reach equilibrium, but with a rad between cards 2 and 3, temps will be lower... I have been WCing for a wild, and I still do stuf old school, but I don't think the thermo dynamics have changed... OP want best posible temps and is using a tech bench... Y not get that extra 3C? People lap processors for less improvement then that... If cards are all in parallel, the rad can just be at the end, but ideally for absolute lowest temps, you want cards in serial with rad between each block (same concept as separate loops)... The problem with parallel is that some ode the already warm water does Cleo through the blocks again after it has passes over the other blocks (ideally it wouldn't)... With serial and rad between each, there is no later that hasnt been cooled going through a block

@OP
By slushy i meant dice... And just for fun at some point (not every day use)... One thing you could realistically use for everyday use you could use a TEC based water chiller with neoprene tubing... Just make sure u have at minimum 120mm worth of rad per TEC... I would use probably a quad TEC chiller or maybe even more... You could get those cards to soar, but TECs just eat power tongue.gif
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post #16 of 24
Quote:
The problem with parallel is that some ode the already warm water does Cleo through the blocks again after it has passes over the other blocks (ideally it wouldn't)

No, Ideally you want them in parallel to have the best possible temps. Every card will get the same temp water, and it'll go through the rad after. I really don't get where you're getting this info, but it is way off. Think of the loop as an electric circuit. The path of lowest restriction will be followed. If all paths have the same restriction, then the water will flow equally through all channels. So if it were in series , yes I'd agree to some extent that the water in the last card would be a tad bit warmer; but not enough to make a drastic change, and certainly not enough to merit a rad in between. You would also see a better flow rate due to less restriction with a parallel setup, which should equate to better overall temps (high flow normally gives better temps). I use to have 2.8LPM and had cards running at around 46 while folding with a series setup (ironically the last card was cooler than the first two). I now redid my loop with parallel and get 5LPM with cards hardly hitting the 40C with 22C ambient.
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post #17 of 24
He is right the water is moving to fast to sit there and get hot before moving to the next card
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post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 
'Thanks for the input, I was wondering about the whole concept of the water "warming" bit it makes sense that the water is moving too quickly for this to matter.

Obviously for a four gpu loop a powerful pump is a necessity.

Would you guys go with one of those monster 2x480 rads, or two separate 480 rads?
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post #19 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjshabadoo View Post

'Thanks for the input, I was wondering about the whole concept of the water "warming" bit it makes sense that the water is moving too quickly for this to matter.
Obviously for a four gpu loop a powerful pump is a necessity.
Would you guys go with one of those monster 2x480 rads, or two separate 480 rads?

If you want extreme, get a MO-RA3 9X120. Those rads are HUGE!

245
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post #20 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

Quote:
The problem with parallel is that some ode the already warm water does Cleo through the blocks again after it has passes over the other blocks (ideally it wouldn't)
No, Ideally you want them in parallel to have the best possible temps. Every card will get the same temp water, and it'll go through the rad after. I really don't get where you're getting this info, but it is way off. Think of the loop as an electric circuit. The path of lowest restriction will be followed. If all paths have the same restriction, then the water will flow equally through all channels. So if it were in series , yes I'd agree to some extent that the water in the last card would be a tad bit warmer; but not enough to make a drastic change, and certainly not enough to merit a rad in between. You would also see a better flow rate due to less restriction with a parallel setup, which should equate to better overall temps (high flow normally gives better temps). I use to have 2.8LPM and had cards running at around 46 while folding with a series setup (ironically the last card was cooler than the first two). I now redid my loop with parallel and get 5LPM with cards hardly hitting the 40C with 22C ambient.

i understand how parallel cards works, it can just lead to a slightly warmer loop then serial with a rad between every card (i actually tested it a few years back, as in p4 EE days, before i did a build for a client)... the reason behind this is that there is more load being put on the rad... think about it this way... what would be more efficient... letting the freezer warm up to room temp and then cooling it down to 10F once a day, or letting it warm up to 30F and cooling it back down to 10F 4 times a day?... same applies to liquid cooling (in any application)... though your temps may only be better by 1-2C with a rad between ever card, they will still be better... i was just trying to offer the best option for lowest temps as that was what i thought the OP was asking for... plz dont blow me off as someone that doesnt know what they are talking about, as i do understand the thermo-dynamics of liquid cooling
Quote:
Originally Posted by Los Hog View Post

He is right the water is moving to fast to sit there and get hot before moving to the next card

if the water didnt change temp then there would be no heat transfer... how would how fast the water moves change the fact that the heat from the cards is being transferred to it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjshabadoo View Post

'Thanks for the input, I was wondering about the whole concept of the water "warming" bit it makes sense that the water is moving too quickly for this to matter.
Obviously for a four gpu loop a powerful pump is a necessity.
Would you guys go with one of those monster 2x480 rads, or two separate 480 rads?

if your talking about pure rad space they should be the same, but i would look into dual 480 rads as well as there is a better variety and you are more likely to find something that fits your needs... you could also get 140.4 rads and use either 140mm fans or 120mm fans with an adapter (what i tend to do if the case can fit 140mm rads)

EDIT:

what i would do (since noise doesnt seem to be an issue) is get these:

2x Phobya G-Changer 560mm
some Bitspower Low Profile 140mm To 120mm Fan Adapter
and some high powered delta fans (200+ CFM if you so desire)

one warning when you are using those adapers though is that you will have to seal the area between the fan and the adapter (and the adapter and the rad as well)... this can just be done with some cheap weather stripping or fan silencers if you are careful to how you attach them

picture144zr.jpg
picture145j.jpg

(this is not my build, but a good example of what you should do if you use weather stripping)
Edited by eskamobob1 - 12/11/11 at 10:30am
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