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Are there ANY water blocks for the redisigned GTX 590?

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Sadly, I just found out my 590 is a redisigned peice and the block won't be compatable with my card. Has anyone made a new version of the block? I have also contacted EVGA about switching my current 590 for an original one, but I think we both know what they will say D:.

Also, I apologize for any and all spelling or grammar mistakes, I will them when I get home (at school).
post #2 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawNeedsHelp View Post

Sadly, I just found out my 590 is a redisigned peice and the block won't be compatable with my card. Has anyone made a new version of the block? I have also contacted EVGA about switching my current 590 for an original one, but I think we both know what they will say D:.
Also, I apologize for any and all spelling or grammar mistakes, I will them when I get home (at school).

rolleyes.gif

Again, there was no re-design...And for the 5th time this month, had you read the official 590 thread, the last page actually answers your question.

The "revision" which is more accurate of what happened, boasts 2 improved VRM's nothing else changed.

EK makes a block that fits but, again, had you read the Official thread, that's in there too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MKHunt View Post

Glad I could help. Oh and as a note to EKWB users with the newer 590s, try putting a .5mm thermal pad on your NF200 chip. When observing dry fitting I can see a thin gap of empty space between the NF200 and the WB. EK recommends using TIM there, but I don't particularly believe that a super thick layer of TIM will work quite as well as a nicely compressed thermal pad. TIM is meant to fill microscopic gaps, not bridge sections of open air. I don't really know how much heat that chip even generates, but it seems safer to make sure it has a well-established escape-route. The only TIMs I would consider acceptable in this situation are Shin-Etsu or ICD, but would still prefer a thermal pad.
I'll work on figuring out how much space is between the inductor tops and water block so I can know how much pad to put up there (instructions don't even say to put thermal material on them). EK also says to put a small blob of TIM on each PWM mosfet then add thermal pad. Everywhere I've read says not to do thermal padding and TIM, so if anyone more in the know with that stuff can advise, I'd appreciate it. My old KL block used pads with no thermal paste, so if nobody can answer definitively, that's what I'll probably do.

6th from the last...Posted in the Official 590 thread.
post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Masked View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawNeedsHelp View Post

Sadly, I just found out my 590 is a redisigned peice and the block won't be compatable with my card. Has anyone made a new version of the block? I have also contacted EVGA about switching my current 590 for an original one, but I think we both know what they will say D:.
Also, I apologize for any and all spelling or grammar mistakes, I will them when I get home (at school).

rolleyes.gif

Again, there was no re-design...And for the 5th time this month, had you read the official 590 thread, the last page actually answers your question.

The "revision" which is more accurate of what happened, boasts 2 improved VRM's nothing else changed.

EK makes a block that fits but, again, had you read the Official thread, that's in there too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MKHunt View Post

Glad I could help. Oh and as a note to EKWB users with the newer 590s, try putting a .5mm thermal pad on your NF200 chip. When observing dry fitting I can see a thin gap of empty space between the NF200 and the WB. EK recommends using TIM there, but I don't particularly believe that a super thick layer of TIM will work quite as well as a nicely compressed thermal pad. TIM is meant to fill microscopic gaps, not bridge sections of open air. I don't really know how much heat that chip even generates, but it seems safer to make sure it has a well-established escape-route. The only TIMs I would consider acceptable in this situation are Shin-Etsu or ICD, but would still prefer a thermal pad.
I'll work on figuring out how much space is between the inductor tops and water block so I can know how much pad to put up there (instructions don't even say to put thermal material on them). EK also says to put a small blob of TIM on each PWM mosfet then add thermal pad. Everywhere I've read says not to do thermal padding and TIM, so if anyone more in the know with that stuff can advise, I'd appreciate it. My old KL block used pads with no thermal paste, so if nobody can answer definitively, that's what I'll probably do.

6th from the last...Posted in the Official 590 thread.

I just got another PM from MKHunt (helping me with this) and he is directing me to aa EK block that works.

I had heard that the VRMs were bigger and some of the blocks wouldn't work. Don't yell at me for freaking out, I'm quick to panic.
post #4 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawNeedsHelp View Post

I just got another PM from MKHunt (helping me with this) and he is directing me to aa EK block that works.
I had heard that the VRMs were bigger and some of the blocks wouldn't work. Don't yell at me for freaking out, I'm quick to panic.

I was actually laughing because none of you actually read the thread.

It's hilarious how many people just start a new thread for a question that was literally just posted yesterday.

The revision happened on the line and all they did was hot swap the VRM's...It's not that blocks don't work it's that you have an extra .5mm to clear...

EK works the best because half way through, they changed their blocks to match...Everyone else had stock out by then.

Still hit or miss.
post #5 of 5
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Masked View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawNeedsHelp View Post

I just got another PM from MKHunt (helping me with this) and he is directing me to aa EK block that works.
I had heard that the VRMs were bigger and some of the blocks wouldn't work. Don't yell at me for freaking out, I'm quick to panic.

I was actually laughing because none of you actually read the thread.

It's hilarious how many people just start a new thread for a question that was literally just posted yesterday.

The revision happened on the line and all they did was hot swap the VRM's...It's not that blocks don't work it's that you have an extra .5mm to clear...

EK works the best because half way through, they changed their blocks to match...Everyone else had stock out by then.

Still hit or miss.

F*** it I'm just gonna order the block again.
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