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Rad Mounting, Screws Depth and Leakage - Page 2

post #11 of 14
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Could't use the supplied screws as they were too short. I had to make a custom bracket to mount the rad which increased the length requirements. I'm not entire sure if its punctured, actually. I was reading on some other post that if you screwed until you could just hear the creaking of the fins that you would be ok. That's what I did. I'm gonna set up a simple loop before connecting them to the cpu, gpus to see if I have leakage. No way to tell until I test.
    
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post #12 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by edman911 View Post

I was reading on some other post that if you screwed until you could just hear the creaking of the fins that you would be ok..

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post #13 of 14
It depends on what you punctured. If you took out some fins, no problemo. if you took out the other side of the bracket, no problemo, if you took out some hidden plumbing inside, big problemo.

if you took out a one of the tubes, well, derp.
 
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post #14 of 14
Thread Starter 
Loop is setup and so far....30min in... NO LEAKS. Phew. First I gotta say thanks to Gary at Sidewindercomputers(buy from them). Turns out the later revisions of the Black Ice Rads have protectors for the radiator, located beneath the screw holes. So even if you crank too much or use screws too long you can go a LITTLE deeper than normal and be ok. Also learned a little tip from my new friend Gary as well... No need to uninstall the rad if you think you've punctured it, for visual inspection. Just attach a fitting and some tubing. Hold the other end with your thumb ect... And listen for leaks as you blow into the tube. Like a bicycle intertube. This may be common knowledge but I gotta mention it since it saved me a ton of time. Next up PICS and hooking up the German made and WITH A LOT OF GERMAN INSTRUSTIONS Aquaero 5 XT and accessories. WOOT,thumb.gif
Edited by edman911 - 12/16/11 at 8:57pm
    
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