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[Work Log] 1st WC build. Reverse ATX TJ07 swimming Full WC R4E - Page 7

Poll Results: If I changed tubing color which color would look best?

 
  • 19% (9)
    Black
  • 51% (24)
    White
  • 21% (10)
    Red
  • 8% (4)
    Blue
47 Total Votes  
post #61 of 182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermzz View Post

Ok, couple more questions. So, my res is gonna drop straight through the mid plate into the pump, the outlet to the pump is on the back side of the dual top. I was just gonna 90 out of the pump top and use a piece of straight hose to the bottom port of the radiator, then the top port is gonna go back up through the mid plate to the components. Is that ok?? Would it be better to have the pump push through the top port of the rad and empty through the bottom, or does it really not make a difference? See image below for reference.
second question regarding the res. The top rad is the last part of the loop before it empties into the res again. Most people I see return to the res through the bottom, and have it drain through the bottom. Is there any benefit to that, or is it ok to just empty into the top? I just don't want all the extra hose if I can help it.

First question-
Its probably best to go from the pump to the highest part of the loop, and let gravity help take some of the load off the pump, but you should be fine doing it however you like as long as you have the res feeding the pumps (like you do).

Second question, The thing I would worry about when dumping water into the top port on the res would be the introduction of air bubbles into the loop. Could be a problem.
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post #62 of 182
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I have a better idea, why don't you mount the dual pumps in the 5.25" bays and take the bottom off the reservoir and screw it into the top of your dual EK pump top? If you did this you could fit another 240 radiator and link it to the 480 radiator, the EK dual pump top was meant to have a reservoir all as one mounted in the bottom most 5.25" bay.

Yeah, I thought about that, but I want the pretty res out in the open! biggrin.gif

I think I already have plenty of cooling for my parts right? a 480 and a 320?
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post #63 of 182
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob808 View Post

First question-
Its probably best to go from the pump to the highest part of the loop, and let gravity help take some of the load off the pump, but you should be fine doing it however you like as long as you have the res feeding the pumps (like you do).
Second question, The thing I would worry about when dumping water into the top port on the res would be the introduction of air bubbles into the loop. Could be a problem.

I really like the way it looks now though. I know I could mount the pump in the 5.25 bays, but then I have to attach the res directly to the top of it as I mentioned before. I know there's plenty of power with two 35x to push it all up through the bottom. Only other option would be to get a bay res and mount the pump directly under. I just think it looks cleaner this way. But do you think I'll be good the way I described it?

good point about the air bubbles, didn't even think about that. Guess I'll go to the bottom of the res then angrysmiley.gif
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post #64 of 182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermzz View Post

Yeah, I thought about that, but I want the pretty res out in the open! biggrin.gif
I think I already have plenty of cooling for my parts right? a 480 and a 320?

I forgot about the top mounted radiator, you have more than enough radiator for even more extreme components! There are two types of water coolers out there, the ones that go all out on water cooling bling without compromising performance and the ones that go all out for performance first and bling as a second thought. I'm the latter and at the end of the day it all comes down to what makes you happy, I can't wait to see it up and running!
post #65 of 182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermzz View Post

PrimoChill and Feser are both pigments, which can get caught in blocks, etc. Mayhem's is an actual dye, and I haven't seen anyone complain about it yet. Besides some staining, I really don't think there will be any ill effect. I do plan on running just distilled with the dye though, and a kill coil.
thanks for the concern though thumb.gif

Well, I tried using the red dye from Mayhems and it would turn purple for some reason...maybe it was reacting with the biocide or the water I was using as the distilled water is probably not as pure as what you get in Europe or US. Anyway cleaning that out kind of killed all the hope of ever running dye or colored liquids again. I am happy with my colored tubing, specially since I cant see the res (bay res) and cpu block is now acetel.
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post #66 of 182
Quote:
Originally Posted by mav2000 View Post

Well, I tried using the red dye from Mayhems and it would turn purple for some reason...maybe it was reacting with the biocide or the water I was using as the distilled water is probably not as pure as what you get in Europe or US. Anyway cleaning that out kind of killed all the hope of ever running dye or colored liquids again. I am happy with my colored tubing, specially since I cant see the res (bay res) and cpu block is now acetel.

it was probably your bioside... what were you running? there are a bunch that cause seperation of dyes and such... i have only used mayhems for a short time, but no complaints here... it does stain tubing slowly, but i havent seen any block stain yet smile.gif
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post #67 of 182
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mav2000 View Post

Well, I tried using the red dye from Mayhems and it would turn purple for some reason...maybe it was reacting with the biocide or the water I was using as the distilled water is probably not as pure as what you get in Europe or US. Anyway cleaning that out kind of killed all the hope of ever running dye or colored liquids again. I am happy with my colored tubing, specially since I cant see the res (bay res) and cpu block is now acetel.

Not sure why yours turned purple, but I sure hope mine doesn't. I'm not gonna run any biocide, just a kill coil. Don't worry you'll see plenty of pictures biggrin.gif

PS thanks for the rep those who did. I feel like I'll never be able to sell anything on this site rolleyes.gif
Edited by jermzz - 1/3/12 at 10:26am
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post #68 of 182
Thread Starter 
***...just realized I used shin etsu on my VRM and SB... gonna have to pull it all apart and use MX-4. I had no idea shin etsu was conductive mad.gif

EDIT: just kidding LOL. Thermally and electrically conductive are two different things biggrin.gif ........ back to work. tongue.gif
Edited by jermzz - 1/3/12 at 1:47pm
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post #69 of 182
This is simply an incredible build... Everything one of us would want to put all together would be done here.

subbed as well! congratz on this monster m8 tongue.gif
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post #70 of 182
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy_5110 View Post

This is simply an incredible build... Everything one of us would want to put all together would be done here.
subbed as well! congratz on this monster m8 tongue.gif

Thanks buddy, glad all these nice people are here to help me with this first time build. I consider myself pretty knowledgeable, but people here blow me away. I'd never normally attempt such an expensive build for a first time w/c, but with all the resources readily available here, I'm not even worried one bit.

lmaosmiley.gif
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Jermzz
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