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[Sponsored]Project Thief - COMPLETED 11/13/2014 - 2 CPUs, 8 GPUs, 4 Loops, 6 Pumps, 50+ Fans, 2TB SSD - Page 119

post #1181 of 3824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derickwm View Post

Nice Essence One wink.gif
What speakers/headphones you have with it?

I have my pxc450's for now which are one of the best noise cancelling headphones, but still not as good as a real headphone. On the hunt for some denon d5000/d7000's. Once the wife goes back to work I might try the HD700/800s, but for now I need closed backs. Did you ever pick up some new headphones?
     
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post #1182 of 3824
Nah I'm quite satisfied with my HD280s. Perfect for what I need them for, and I'm more of a speaker guy anyway.
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post #1183 of 3824
Turning out to be a really nice test rig...I like
 
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post #1184 of 3824
Stren,
Im not sure if you mean active noise canceling headphones or just closed cans....but I have some AKG 271 MK2 that are really nice but they dont go really low. The rest of the range though sounds great...especially for music. If you want headphones that go deep I have been told that the ones made by Ultrasone are pretty hard to beat in the bass department.

Im not sure what your tastes are as some like alot of "thump" and others like me like the details with some "thump" and then some dont care for much "thump" at all.
post #1185 of 3824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madbrayniak View Post

Stren,
Im not sure if you mean active noise canceling headphones or just closed cans....but I have some AKG 271 MK2 that are really nice but they dont go really low. The rest of the range though sounds great...especially for music. If you want headphones that go deep I have been told that the ones made by Ultrasone are pretty hard to beat in the bass department.
Im not sure what your tastes are as some like alot of "thump" and others like me like the details with some "thump" and then some dont care for much "thump" at all.

Yeah the PXC450s are active noise cancelling. I'm looking to move to more audiophile phones that still have some degree of passive isolation both for me and for those around me wife smile.gif

A somewhat rambling video update on the test bench:
     
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post #1186 of 3824
Quote:
Originally Posted by stren View Post

I have my pxc450's for now which are one of the best noise cancelling headphones, but still not as good as a real headphone. On the hunt for some denon d5000/d7000's. Once the wife goes back to work I might try the HD700/800s, but for now I need closed backs. Did you ever pick up some new headphones?

What's your budget for the headphones??
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post #1187 of 3824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wongwarren View Post

What's your budget for the headphones??

To be honest I want to wait until I'm done with the build (with the exception of the waterfall reservoirs), see how brutal the final total is before I spend any more. I've been watching head-fi just to see what things go for while I keep an open mind.
     
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post #1188 of 3824
Quote:
Originally Posted by stren View Post

To be honest I want to wait until I'm done with the build (with the exception of the waterfall reservoirs), see how brutal the final total is before I spend any more. I've been watching head-fi just to see what things go for while I keep an open mind.

When you get around to it: there is gap between 'good-enough' mainstream stuff with feature gimics and mediocre build quality to the real audiophile models. Some companies, such as Sennheiser, have decided to cater to both the budget gimic group and to the real audiophile group (so be aware of models and variations/versions). I did a lot of research twice now in the last couple years and the higher end Sennheiser and Beyerdynamic ended up being my choices for best price/performance at the entry-level audiophile range. I didn't want to spend over $500 for headphones, so I didn't look into the crazy high-end stuff. Having listened to both, I'd say that the Sennheiser models are better for open and Beyerdynamic better for closed. I wasn't able to audition any AKG, though.



... that Iwaki is nuts... nuts is good. I wonder if you would need thicker o-rings for the long term, though, from having the higher pressure throughout the loop: seal degradation is bad.
Edited by Electrocutor - 6/29/12 at 7:44am
post #1189 of 3824
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrocutor View Post

When you get around to it: there is gap between 'good-enough' mainstream stuff with feature gimics and mediocre build quality to the real audiophile models. Some companies, such as Sennheiser, have decided to cater to both the budget gimic group and to the real audiophile group (so be aware of models and variations/versions). I did a lot of research twice now in the last couple years and the higher end Sennheiser and Beyerdynamic ended up being my choices for best price/performance at the entry-level audiophile range. I didn't want to spend over $500 for headphones, so I didn't look into the crazy high-end stuff. Having listened to both, I'd say that the Sennheiser models are better for open and Beyerdynamic better for closed. I wasn't able to audition any AKG, though.
... that Iwaki is nuts... nuts is good. I wonder if you would need thicker o-rings for the long term, though, from having the higher pressure throughout the loop: seal degradation is bad.

AKG's, some Audio-Technica's, Grado's and Stax's are definitely some of the best out there. Notice how I say "some Audio-Technica's".
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post #1190 of 3824
Thread Starter 
Alright - while I haven't made progress on the project, I have made progress on the CPU water block review. Here's how I did the temperature sensors (some of these photos are repeats but are included for completeness as a how-to guide):

For this I was following Rubidium's excellent guide with some modifications.

Dallas one wire temperature sensors are much more accurate than the standard 2 wire thermistor type sensors that are used in current water temperature probes. However they need to be water proofed and mounted in the loop which means some work on my part.

So here's what I ordered - the temperature sensors and the crystalfontz USB interface- there are many options here, the one I chose was not the cheapest but gives a good amount of screen space:

NPHHyh.jpg

The package came in:

hZ5jzh.jpg

In addition to the main screen display, you'll need a SCAB module that enables the sensor monitoring, plus a USB cable, plus the temperature sensors too.

Rwvjhh.jpg

Here's the break down of how to plug it in

kH9Olh.jpg

tUcPzh.jpg

We also needed some other parts to build the temperature sensors into, the bitspower rotary q fitting is very flexible but has more ports than you'll probably need so you'll need to order some stop fittings or a different t adapter:

9NRU9h.jpg

Here's what I ordered from mcmaster-carr at the top and at the bottom is a sample order for enough parts for one temp sensor from sidewinder (I had some parts already so only ordered what I needed). If you clean the stainless steel syringe well you may be able to reuse it, I ordered two just in case. The parts arrived:

3TVrph.jpg

I ordered the brass metal brush, I probably should have ordered something else though - maybe a steel one? Eitherway it seems to have worked for me. Brass barbs make life easier because otherwise you have to remove the nickel plating from the fitting.

AJbpHh.jpg

First off rough up the surface of the temperature sensor, I used 220 grit regular sand paper:

0snyrh.jpg

Then rough up the interior surface of the barb using the metal brush (fit it in a drill and spend a few minutes doing the old in and out). I also sanded the end of the barb and it's chamfer with 220 grit. I then cut some small neoprene washers to fit around the temp sensors and hold it centered in the barb:

LVc4fh.jpg

I bought the smallest I could find from home depot. If you can find something that's a perfect fit (any rubber grommet or washer that fits would be fine) then it would be better. You want to make the fit as perfect as possible otherwise the glue will leak past and it could ruin all your efforts. Fit a 2nd washer to keep the wire centered at the back of the barb. Now we're going to mix up the glue. Get your glue mats together:

iy4clh.jpg

I found about a quarter of the 1.7oz size would fill 2-3 3cc syringes. One 3cc syringe's worth is probably enough for 2 fittings. I mixed it in a disposable plastic shot glass that I had laying around.

MU5oRh.jpg

Then take the plastic syringe, dip the end in and start sucking up the glue:

b0eldh.jpg

Stop when you have enough and wipe off the tip:

ZwefEh.jpg

Attach the needle by screwing it on while pushing it in. Be careful to catch the glue that comes out while you do this:

JV4fQh.jpg

Fill up around the temperature sensor slowly avoiding making any bubbles. You will want to fill up just above the edge of the fitting as the glue will shrink down a bit. As the glue will run you need to secure it so that it doesn't run out. I put mine loosely in a vice:

CWzcDh.jpg

Here they are after drying for 24 hours:

p3nrCh.jpg

You can see the glue is lower than the edge of the fitting. If your washer/grommet wasn't a good fit, a good amount of glue may have leaked past. If it's too low you can always top off later.

H2rlZh.jpg

Now you're going to remove the grommet/washer and fill the other side of the fitting all the way to the top. Again take it slowly and avoid bubbles, keep going around and around the wires and try and keep the wires centered. Leave to dry in an upright position so that it doesn't run out the side:

zAgJQh.jpg

All done:

Pwhegh.jpg

You can then mount them in the bitspower q fitting:

1pCxkh.jpg

I then added on my VL4N QDC's (along with g1/4 g3/8 adapters):

Pn3Q8h.jpg

You can then add stop fittings and mount to your favorite waterblock and then leak test:

zunbbh.jpg

Looks kinda frankenstein, but hopefully the performance will be worthwhile thumb.gif
     
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