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[Build Log] Another Damned Build Log! (First time WC, Cosmos 1000) - Page 3

post #21 of 49
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After posting last night I stayed up pretty late working on the rig. Once the mods were finished, I wanted to dry fit everything again and see how it all lined up to figure out whether I needed any additional fittings, so I could order them right away. Also to see how boned I would be given that my 90° triple rotaries were both damaged in shipping and I will be subbing in straight barbs until the replacements arrive.

First thing I tried was mounting the DD Monsoon res, and unfortunately another required mod popped up. The monsoon dual-bay res/pump mounts with a single vertical row of screws on each side, four on the left and four on the right.

drivecagerbefore.jpg
This is the left-hand side of the 5 1/4" drive cage (as viewed from the front). The oval in the middle towards the bottom is one screw point, and the little pin right above it is the working end of coolermaster's tool-less quick release mechanism for the optical bays. It's a nice feature for optical drives but it doesn't stick through terribly far so I'm skeptical it will do much work holding the res in place. On the other hand, it would be yet another minor hassle to remove them so I'm gonna leave it and see whether I can get by with two screws on this side instead of four.

drivecagelbefore.jpg
And, this is the right-hand side of the drive cage. Instead of pins there's little tabbed springs which really won't do much for a big res filled with water. And there's no light behind the upper hole which means that screw hole is blocked off entirely frown.gif I definitely don't want to risk using only one screw on this side so it's back to modland.

drivecageoutbefore.jpg
Here's the view from outside, before I went at it, and...

drivecageoutafter.jpg
Here's after I mangled it wink.gif Once again, I used a standard drill to bore through and finished with a conical grinding stone on the dremel. The metal used on the cage is a little harder than some of the other case elements, and I had a hard time getting the drill bit to bite given the complex surface. The little divot under the new hole is a result of the bit skipping a little. Not work I'm especially proud of but this area won't be seen too often.

drivecageinafter.jpg
I tried my best while drilling to be as controlled as possible, but punching through the harder metal for one of my pilot holes took a fair deal of force and the bit jumped through and nipped the outer oval a little. frown.giffrown.gif Luckily the slot is still smaller than the screw head I will mount the res with so I dodged a bullet there. whistle.gif

monsooninstalled.jpg
But it's in! Now I finally feel like I'm getting somewhere.
Edited by threephi - 1/6/12 at 8:59pm
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post #22 of 49
Can't wait to see this when it's done! All the hard work and waiting will give you a much bigger sense of accomplishment when you finish.

...then again, do we ever really finish our WC setups?
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post #23 of 49
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Now for some real fun. I'd had enough of banging on my case so I decided to put the block on one of my 5850's. I'm only going to do one for right now because I need the other one operational on air for when I install the indigo xtreme and do the reflow procedure (which I'm admittedly a little nervous about).

5850before.jpg
An oldie but a goodie. I'm not a huge huge gamer, but when I do play, I want the best visual quality I can afford, and these were what I could afford when I bought them biggrin.gif They've done me right for a good long time now but games are starting to pass them by; for example I have to dial down to 4xAA in skyrim to keep all the other eyecandy running at max while holding decent framerates. But I'm only running one 1920x1200 monitor so I don't need huge horsepower. And to be honest, part of the reason I've held on to them is because I had unused blocks moldering in my closet waiting to get wet.

I'm not going to dwell too long on the cooler swapping since it's pretty standard stuff but it was the first time for me smile.gif. It went really smoothly and the EK instructions were to the point and easy to follow.

5850during.jpg
I needed new thermal pads since this was a used block, so I got something with better thermal performance than what EK provides stock, because I could wink.gif And yeah before anyone points it out, I put on way too much thermal paste (MX4). It probably looks like the GPU crapped itself with gray goo in there now but I don't think it warrants redoing it. I also realized after I closed it up that I used all 1mm pads instead of some of them being 0.5mm. The pads are very squishy though so I am confident they will squeeze in and be ok. More schadenfreude for you all if my card blows up and I prove to be an idiot oneeyedsmiley02.png Although that would give me an excuse to buy some 580's, so who's the dummy?

Later on I finally located the proper hex key to open the block, it looks just as good as I remembered when I first opened it up shortly after buying it last May.
block1-1.jpg
(click for higher res)

I didn't do any processing on this photo so it definitely looks darker than "natural", but I wanted to leave all the original contrast on this one. It's very shiny and reflective like it should be, it happens to be reflecting the ceiling here. There was just a very thin layer of oxidation or residue of some kind, which I rubbed (mostly) off with q-tips. Otherwise there are only a very few, very small imperfections in the plating, and this is after being in the original owner's loop for several months. Must be pre-fiasco EK nickel thumb.gif A few blasts of air and I closed her up again.

upperarea.jpg
Everything looks SO much better without a huge ugly air cooler in there! However, the CPU block, back radiator, and upper GPU are a LOT closer together than I had anticipated. Plus that back 120 rad blocks off access to a few electrical connections on the mobo so I'm going to have to carefully plan the order in which I do things when I finally assemble everything for real.

idealloop.jpg
Now we're talking! This shows the loop I originally planned, and gives the shortest and cleanest tubing runs. The res/pump and the upper 280 rad are both offscreen in this photo, to the right and upper right respectively, and each will have plain straight compressions on the ports.

Res/Pump > 280 rad > CPU > back 120 rad > upper GPU > lower GPU > bottom 120 rad (with drain port) > res/pump

I spent a long time playing with the fittings, moving them around to see what loops were possible with what I have available. This was a really educative step for me given that I'm a newbie smile.gif On the one hand it was really really valuable having the actual fittings in my hands to see what works and what doesn't, but on the other, I would have ordered a slightly different assortment if I had put all the components in before choosing which ones to get. Probably not too big an issue for most people but the red fittings have to come direct from Taiwan if you want more than plain barbs or stoppers. On the bright side, I'm really happy that I got as many extenders as I did, I think I'm using every single one.

Unfortunately as you can see in the above photo, there are a few holes here that would require additional special-ordered fittings. For starters, another 90° rotary down in the lower right for the inlet to the lower 120 rad.

idealloopupper.jpg
And the connection between the back 120 rad and the upper GPU is so close that there's not enough space there for two fittings. It would be awesome to wiggle a 5-way snake in there to make a hard connection--I'm going to have to check with BP to see if they'll make one in red biggrin.gif But for now I'm going to have to do something different.

This is the loop I came up with:
loopplan.jpg
Res/pump > 280 rad > back 120 rad > CPU > upper GPU > lower GPU > bottom 120 (with drain) > Res/pump

The more I look at this loop, the more I like it, especially the way the tubes will run parallel coming off the CPU, with another tube coming across under them. Ideally I would have a 30° extender for the inlet CPU port so that tube is a little straighter, so we'll see if I can get that when I get my RMA replacements for the damaged 90's that I am using in the photos.

Speaking of which, when I actually put the loop together tomorrow those will both be replaced with plain silver barbs. So the tubing will be a little screwy to start, but hopefully it won't be for too long.

loopplanlower.jpg
In this last photo, I moved the card with the block on it into the lower slot to get a better idea of the clearances between the card and the PSU and the card and the bottom rad. The former I expected, but the latter I didn't. I had planned to just run a straight fitting pointing up from the rad outlet there, but the card is in the way. Luckily I had one 90° extender in my order which wasn't being used, and plenty of short extensions to relocate that fitting so it comes around the side.

That whole area is going to be pretty cluttered since it's the main cabling nexus too... unfortunately I'm not going to address cabling until I can find a source for true red connectors. I really hate the color of the very orange-looking so-called "UV red" stuff which appears to be all that is available from any of the usual suspects. Another thing on my wish list is red screws... red screws everywhere drool.gif

I have also gone back and forth a little bit about the drain port coming off the near block on that bottom rad... at first I thought it looks too chunky but now I think I like it smile.gif What do you all think?

The next step is a biggie, I'm going to take out the back rad and all the fittings and put on the indigo, also the first time using that for me. The instructions imply you should do this with water in the loop but not flowing, however with my setup it will be very awkward to remove the CPU block once the tubing is in place. It'll only be for a minute or two but I'm a little nervous running the CPU with only a little bit of passive copper to cool it worriedsmiley.gif
Edited by threephi - 1/12/12 at 9:33pm
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post #24 of 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackofhearts495 View Post

Can't wait to see this when it's done! All the hard work and waiting will give you a much bigger sense of accomplishment when you finish.
...then again, do we ever really finish our WC setups?

hehe... I'm already starting to see that biggrin.gif The first revision of this build won't be done for a good long time though. I'm still waiting for the following, both with indeterminate ETA's:

- Replacement fittings for the ones damaged in shipping, currently awaiting information from BP about when they will be manufactured frown.gif
- GT 2150 AP-16 fans that I paid for in July as part of the well-intended but ill-fated OCN group buy, also waiting for the manufacturer to get cracking.

And besides the cabling, a windowed side panel would be nice...
Edited by threephi - 1/7/12 at 2:15am
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post #25 of 49
I ordered this awhile ago for my CM 690II Advanced case. I really, really wanted a case with a window, but the 690 II had too many other awesome features to pass up.

I hear they're incredibly easy to put in. My dad insisted on taking it to his office to let a professional do it, and I can't wait to see it. There are other sizes, of course, but they're all really cheap.
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post #26 of 49
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I was thinking about something like that... FCPU also sells a kit to alter the stock door for my case but they want $50.
Edited by threephi - 1/7/12 at 11:22am
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post #27 of 49
$50? Holy hell... that's ridiculous, considering you can get something nearly identical for $11. who-let-rip-smiley.png
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post #28 of 49
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Indigo Xtreme confusion! weirdsmiley.gif

Well I just tried the installation procedure and it didn't go as planned. I have no idea if it worked! Does anyone here have experience with this stuff and the EK Supreme HF block?

I took great pains to follow all the procedures precisely, I got the CPU and block cleaned off properly and installed everything but without any water in the block, and I think that may have contributed to the problem. I also went into BIOS first thing to turn off my overclock since I hadn't done that yet. BIOS showed a CPU fan and CPU temp warning so I turned it off and connected a fan to the CPU header... booted into windows finally, and my temp monitor showed all the cores already at 99 or 100 degrees, without running anything!!! blinksmiley.gif

I let it run for about twenty seconds trying to figure out what was going on before I got extremely worried and turned it off.

The instructions say a waterblock typically only needs about thirty seconds for the whole procedure given the lower mass of metal involved as compared to an average air cooler, so I'm hoping that the reflow happened while I was mucking around in BIOS... right now I'm letting it cool off so the material can set, but has anyone here who's used this stuff have any insight?
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post #29 of 49
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Update:

So I had a choice. If I just left things as they were and went on to build everything anyway, a poor reflow would show itself by sub-standard temps, but the fix would require completely tearing everything down again. The other option was biting the bullet (and burning the $10 that each application of the ETI costs) and removing the block to see what's underneath.

I bit.
indigogood.jpg
The finish on that stuff is absolutely mirror... it worked smile.giffrown.gifdoh.gif

indigodecal.jpg
That's what I call nooks and crannies thumb.gif

The coverage wasn't entirely perfect as there were a few bare spots, so I'm guessing that might be due to how quickly the flow occurred and possibly over-melting by running too hot. I'm going to hook up my res/pump combo in a simple loop with the CPU to put some water in the block, hopefully that will slow things down enough that I can see the reflow happen.
Edited by threephi - 1/8/12 at 12:11am
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post #30 of 49
Thread Starter 
I must be jinxed when it comes to indigo xtreme, I tried again but it still didn't happen the way it's supposed to frown.gif

I set up a simple loop just to get water in the CPU block:
450

Everything went smoothly until I turned the computer on and realized very quickly that one of my drives wasn't responding. Turns out the SATA power cable had wiggled loose as I was moving my case around on my desk. madsmiley.png So I had to drop to BIOS, figure out what was wrong, plug the drive back in, and try again. When I finally got into Windows the CPU was reading about 55C or so. I booted up Prime 95 and temps immediately shot to 98-100C again, instead of 90C as the indigo xtreme instructions indicate. I waited about 30 seconds or so without the temperature dip that is supposed to indicate ETI reflow and shut it down. frown.giffrown.gif

I let it cool down then booted up again just to see what the temps were, and it wasn't bad, about 36-40 among the various cores, which is actually at the low range of what I'm used to seeing with my hyper 212+, so I'm hoping the full loop with water flowing and being cooled by rads will show what it's supposed to.

Seems this stuff is very finicky, and the instructions provided don't adequately cover what a watercooler should expect. If anyone reading has used Indigo Xtreme with the EK Supreme HF, I'd be grateful to hear what your experience has been.

Moving along... after this slightly disheartening episode, I drained the little mini-loop I had set up and installed the 120 rads.
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For the top rad I needed to bridge a little gap inside the case so I used some nylon spacers I picked up at my local hardware store. I tested each rad to see how many threads I could safely screw in before hitting the fins, and got additional screws where needed that were as close to the ideal length as possible.

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Where necessary I also used rubber washers to "shorten" the screws, with the added benefit of adding some sound dampening.

Next, I started running tubes.
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First tube in! I guess it's not that impressive but I have been planning this loop for literally more than a year and with this tube I started to see the finish line. thumb.gif

Next step was to put in my 5850's, but first I had to install the block on the second card. I bought this block second-hand, albeit new and unopened in the original retail box. It is however the notorious pre-EN EK nickel so I really wanted to take a look inside.
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Nice and clean and very shiny, so far so good.
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This is a closer view of the channels. At first glance look it appears pretty good but there are a few tiny blemishes here and there that have me a little worried. In particular there are several scattered greyish circles on the top surface that appear to plausibly fit the consensus theory of what caused EK's nickel problems--inadequate cleaning before plating that allowed specks of foreign matter to sit between the nickel and the copper, creating weak spots. I'm going to use the block because I don't have much choice, but I'll make sure to inspect it again in a few months. BTW the orange sections on the bottom edges of some of the wavy channels are reflections of my orange shirt, not exposed copper wink.gif

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Cards in! Once again my trusty measuring chopstick came in handy to make sure I had the spacing of the D-plug between the cards set properly.

I continued installing fittings and running tubes but quickly got to a point where I needed one of my missing fittings. Without it, the tube run required was really unsatisfactory so I decided to call it quits for a few days.
Edited by threephi - 1/11/12 at 7:03pm
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
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Reply
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
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Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › [Build Log] Another Damned Build Log! (First time WC, Cosmos 1000)