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post #11 of 19
Found your problems:

1. You're shooting wide open at f/1.8. As stated before, DoF can be razor thin here. Depending on where you're shooting from, DoF can be anywhere from a few inches to even less than an inch. So one part of the photo may be in focus (which is the case here), but because of the narrow DoF, not everything will be in focus.

2. Your shutter speed is too slow. You're shooting at 1/6 and 1/2, both of which are way too slow. Looking at your photos, there's unmistakable signs of too slow shutter speeds leading to camera shake blur.

PS: It also looks like you've a hot pixel. You can see the red spot on your sensor in the second image clearly. The same spot appears, albeit not as visible, in the first pic in the exact same location.
post #12 of 19
Wow, I told you in the first place your shutter is too low lol. I said at least 1/60th of a second minimum.
post #13 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Webster View Post

Wow, I told you in the first place your shutter is too low lol. I said at least 1/60th of a second minimum.

Yea these pics were like the first few shots i took. So never below 1/60 what about fstop? 2.8? Also, any suggestions for not shooting crooked?
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post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post

Found your problems:
1. You're shooting wide open at f/1.8. As stated before, DoF can be razor thin here. Depending on where you're shooting from, DoF can be anywhere from a few inches to even less than an inch. So one part of the photo may be in focus (which is the case here), but because of the narrow DoF, not everything will be in focus.
2. Your shutter speed is too slow. You're shooting at 1/6 and 1/2, both of which are way too slow. Looking at your photos, there's unmistakable signs of too slow shutter speeds leading to camera shake blur.
PS: It also looks like you've a hot pixel. You can see the red spot on your sensor in the second image clearly. The same spot appears, albeit not as visible, in the first pic in the exact same location.

Hot pixel? is it bad? Personally i don't notice anything out of the ordinary
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post #15 of 19
Thread Starter 
let me see if i got this right. So if I want to blur the background, but not the subject i should raise the f stop?
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post #16 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by krown View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Webster View Post

Wow, I told you in the first place your shutter is too low lol. I said at least 1/60th of a second minimum.

Yea these pics were like the first few shots i took. So never below 1/60 what about fstop? 2.8?

Well you can shoot at 1.8, but you just need to make sure you focus properly and don't move once you focus.
Quote:
Also, any suggestions for not shooting crooked?

Sorry, but that is common sense. Hold the camera level lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by krown View Post


Hot pixel? is it bad? Personally i don't notice anything out of the ordinary

Well that means the pixel will not capture the proper color on the sensor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by krown View Post

let me see if i got this right. So if I want to blur the background, but not the subject i should raise the f stop?

Smaller the # the smaller the DoF and more blur
post #17 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Also, any suggestions for not shooting crooked?
Sorry, but that is common sense. Hold the camera level lol.

Lol, kinda figured that. What do you think about this http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B00006JA1W/188-6954527-0691930?SubscriptionId=02ZH6J1W0649DTNS6002
Also, is the hot pixel a big problem, where I should get a new one?
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post #18 of 19
The general rule of thumb is that your shutter speed should be the inverse of your focal length for hand holding. That means that if you are shooting at 50mm, you should use at least 1/50sec. when hand holding your camera to avoid camera shake. Keep in mind that your camera has a crop factor of 1.6x. That means that a 50mm lens on your camera is equivalent to an 80mm in a full frame camera so theoretically you should be shooting at 1/80sec or faster when hand holding. However 1/50sec can work fine if you are steady. Some lenses (like your kit lens) have image stabilization (IS), which corrects for camera shake and lets you use a slower shutter speed like 1/20sec and still get clear photos. If you're not sure, shoot in Aperture Priority (Av) mode. The camera will select the best shutter speed for you.

The reason the images look clear on your LCD is that the camera is resizing them to fit your resolution, which is quite small. When shrinking the images, you can't see the blur. The 550D/T2i has a much better screen resolution, but it will won't correct your other issues. In fact, the images will still be considerably shrunk on that camera too. I don't think you need to upgrade because they both have similar sensors and lenses. You should learn to get the most out of the equipment you have first.

Lastly, you can't always trust the auto-focus, especially in low light and especially with low-end lenses. It is not always 100% accurate. This margin of error can be fine with small apertures because they have such a wide DoF. However, at f/1.8, it's not as forgiving. Also, don't move your camera forward or back after getting AF lock.

f/8-11 is usually considered a medium aperture and you will get lots more in focus with that (if desired). However, remember your crop factor again. f/8 on a full frame camera is closer to f/5 in yours. Your kit lens with f/3.5-5.6 has a "medium" aperture range for your crop sensor camera. f/1.8 produces a DoF equivalent to f/2.8 on a full frame. Whenever you read about settings or photography tips, they are usually speaking in 35mm full frame equivalents, which need to be converted for your camera.

Let me know if you have any other questions!
post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by klaxian View Post

The general rule of thumb is that your shutter speed should be the inverse of your focal length for hand holding. That means that if you are shooting at 50mm, you should use at least 1/50sec. when hand holding your camera to avoid camera shake. Keep in mind that your camera has a crop factor of 1.6x. That means that a 50mm lens on your camera is equivalent to an 80mm in a full frame camera so theoretically you should be shooting at 1/80sec or faster when hand holding. However 1/50sec can work fine if you are steady. Some lenses (like your kit lens) have image stabilization (IS), which corrects for camera shake and lets you use a slower shutter speed like 1/20sec and still get clear photos. If you're not sure, shoot in Aperture Priority (Av) mode. The camera will select the best shutter speed for you.
The reason the images look clear on your LCD is that the camera is resizing them to fit your resolution, which is quite small. When shrinking the images, you can't see the blur. The 550D/T2i has a much better screen resolution, but it will won't correct your other issues. In fact, the images will still be considerably shrunk on that camera too. I don't think you need to upgrade because they both have similar sensors and lenses. You should learn to get the most out of the equipment you have first.
Lastly, you can't always trust the auto-focus, especially in low light and especially with low-end lenses. It is not always 100% accurate. This margin of error can be fine with small apertures because they have such a wide DoF. However, at f/1.8, it's not as forgiving. Also, don't move your camera forward or back after getting AF lock.
f/8-11 is usually considered a medium aperture and you will get lots more in focus with that (if desired). However, remember your crop factor again. f/8 on a full frame camera is closer to f/5 in yours. Your kit lens with f/3.5-5.6 has a "medium" aperture range for your crop sensor camera. f/1.8 produces a DoF equivalent to f/2.8 on a full frame. Whenever you read about settings or photography tips, they are usually speaking in 35mm full frame equivalents, which need to be converted for your camera.
Let me know if you have any other questions!

Alright, thanks a lot that really explained things clearly for a beginner like me. On a side note, my dad has and old Minolta slr from the 80's and he has 2-3 lenses that were like $500 a piece. It would be a shame to throw those away, so I was wondering if it would be possible to use a converter to use them. They were tokina's, if you would like I could take a few pictures of them.

This is the converter I am looking at

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Minolta-MD-MC-Lens-Canon-EOS-EF-Mount-Camera-Optical-Adapter-60D-600D-1100D-/110786163528?pt=UK_Photography_CameraLenses_Lens_caps_hoods_adaptors_ET&hash=item19cb5eb348#ht_2612wt_905
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