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Network Setup questions w/ diagram

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I just purchased a house that has some wiring completed from the previous owner. I was a little disappointing there isnt really anything about this in the stickys as Im sure its a common kind of question.I am trying to decide how to best set up my network. I will be using a D Link DIR655 as the wireless router and have yet to purchase a switch

I think this is my ideal set up. The area where all the wires terminate is kinda on on side of a 2700 sq ft two story house, so I was wondering if I can use on of the drop in the central living room as a second switch for all living room entertainment devices and also have a separate a wireless bridge/extender/repeater on the far side of the house that receives its data through the Ethernet cable but I can connect my wireless devices to it? It seems like I would only be able to connect to one wireless router or another this way though which is not preferable.

357



Also, I dont know the best way to set up a switch. Is it better to have only one Ethernet from the router to the switch with all devices then coming off of the switch like this

397

or to try and use the three other routers ports, then whatever else on the switch like this

359

Im not sure if I only use one Ethernet cable from the router to the switch if everything on the network has to travel that one Ethernet cable from the router to the switch for routing or whatever. I doubt it would make a big difference but Im just not sure which way is overall best for the network.


Also, I want to be able to assign static IPs to all devices connected to my network but Im not sure how this will all work out once I have a switch thrown into the mix. With my previous homes set up the DIR 655 has assigned static IPs to my 4 wired devices. Will I still be able to set up everything through my router and assign static IPs?
Thanks for any help/suggestions.

Edit: looks like I have an extra computer on some of the diagrams. I know that the DIR 655 can only have 4 hard wired devices on it.
Edited by Poppinj - 12/28/11 at 11:33pm
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post #2 of 8
I am at work and websense stops me from enlarging your diagrams but I will give this advice.

Start with your router as your "base". From the router you want to run to switches, from the switches you run to patch panels, wireless access points or straight to devices.

Remember you only want one gateway (this is your router). Then get enough switches or wireless access points to cover your whole house.

You only need one ethernet cable connecting each network device. You can also run switch to switch if it makes cabling easier.

So heres an example....

Router > 1 Ethernet > Switch A > 1 Ethernet > Switch B

From the router and each switch you can attach anything you like and it will function exactly the same as if it were connected anywhere on your network.

Just remember every network device (i.e switch or wireless access point) needs one feed from another network device.
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post #3 of 8
Diagram seems fine.
Unless you are using managed/enterprisey equipment I would stick with one uplink.

Your LAN traffic will stay on the switch level, it is also unlikely you have more than a 100 mbit broadband package. Therefore there is no benefit to teaming uplinks.
Switch 2 devices will share the available bandwidth from the single uplink to Switch 1.

Within your second AP utilize the same SSID and security mechanism, but switch the channel on your AP to the opposite end of the spectrum from your initial one.

DHCP will be unaffected as switches remain in the same broadcast domain.
Please assign your static addresses outside of the DHCP pool if you still plan on enabling DHCP.
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post #4 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by beers View Post

Diagram seems fine.
Unless you are using managed/enterprisey equipment I would stick with one uplink.
Your LAN traffic will stay on the switch level, it is also unlikely you have more than a 100 mbit broadband package. Therefore there is no benefit to teaming uplinks.
Switch 2 devices will share the available bandwidth from the single uplink to Switch 1.
Within your second AP utilize the same SSID and security mechanism, but switch the channel on your AP to the opposite end of the spectrum from your initial one.
DHCP will be unaffected as switches remain in the same broadcast domain.
Please assign your static addresses outside of the DHCP pool if you still plan on enabling DHCP.

^ This.

Its a home network at the end of the day and you won't be needing enterprise level equipment.

Like beers said, if you plan on using static addressing for any devices, make sure these are either outside of the DHCP pool range or that you make a reservation on them addresses in DHCP so that you don't end up with IP conflicts.
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post #5 of 8
Too many pictures to look at.

the basics:

You will want one router connected at the internet entry point that will act as your DHCP server. Your DIR-655. Hopefully with everything you have (or are going to connect) it has a gigabit switch built in.

from that, you would connect an ethernet cable to a switch (the size [number of ports] will depend on how many other cables you need to connect. The switch will have no affect on assigning static IP addresses to the devices beyond it.

At the other end of your wires, you can connect anything you want, including additional wireless access points (that may or may not contain additional switches) for other wired devices. this depends on the capabilities of what you buy. If using a "router" for this application, the router's firmware must have the ability to be set up as just an "access point", most can, and its DHCP server will need to be disabled. Your DIR-655 will assign all IP addresses.

You also have no problem connecting additional switches at the remote areas for connections to multiple devices at these locations. Again, switches (in essence) do nothing more than split the incomming signal into multiple outlets. there are smart switches, and dumb switches. unless this is some type of "corporate" environment where packet routing in important, a dumb switch will suffice.

Basically your 1st picture looks closest to what you need, as your current router does not have the proper number of ports to feed 5 wired remote locations, so a switch would be necessary after your router.
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post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the reply's guys. So what Ive gathered is that it is best to have all wired items going off of the main switch and only one cable from the switch to the router, leaving all other router ports empty. I guess the switch will "learn" the IP addresses of all devices without having to use any information from the router? Perhaps this is the difference between a "smart" and "dumb" switch that someone mentioned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by beers View Post

Within your second AP utilize the same SSID and security mechanism, but switch the channel on your AP to the opposite end of the spectrum from your initial one.

DHCP will be unaffected as switches remain in the same broadcast domain.
Please assign your static addresses outside of the DHCP pool if you still plan on enabling DHCP.

So a second router set up and plugged into the switch via Ethernet on the other side of the house, with dhcp and firewall and port forwarding all turned off, set up with the same SSID and password but different channel will suffice. Will this allow my devices to seamlessly use one or the other or both at the same time? or will I have to connect to only one router at a time?
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post #7 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppinj View Post

So a second router set up and plugged into the switch via Ethernet on the other side of the house, with dhcp and firewall and port forwarding all turned off, set up with the same SSID and password but different channel will suffice. Will this allow my devices to seamlessly use one or the other or both at the same time? or will I have to connect to only one router at a time?

Yes, as long as the wireless encrpytion type (WPA2, etc), SSID and password on both the wireless access points are the same, your devices will automatically connect to whichever one is closest to it. Of course that brings about the problem that if you move from one part of the house to another with your wireless device, that device will still stay connected to the original access point (if it still has a signal) rather than automatically switching to the stronger router. Some newer devices might do this, but I'm not sure what is needed or what type of device it is. Of course, if the device loses its wireless connection to the first access point by the time you're close to the other, it'll reconnect automatically - you probably won't even know it happened.

AFAIK, just disconnecting and reconnecting the device to the network does fix this, but it can get annoying. Best way is just to test this. Set the wireless transmission power on one router to be pretty low and walk around the house. If your signal/speeds stay constant then your device is dynamically switching access points. If the signal/speed gets lower as you move farther away from one access point and towards the another, then your device needs to be manually connected to the stronger source.
Edited by shinigamibob - 12/29/11 at 12:03pm
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post #8 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppinj View Post

Thanks for the reply's guys. So what Ive gathered is that it is best to have all wired items going off of the main switch and only one cable from the switch to the router, leaving all other router ports empty. I guess the switch will "learn" the IP addresses of all devices without having to use any information from the router? Perhaps this is the difference between a "smart" and "dumb" switch that someone mentioned.
So a second router set up and plugged into the switch via Ethernet on the other side of the house, with dhcp and firewall and port forwarding all turned off, set up with the same SSID and password but different channel will suffice. Will this allow my devices to seamlessly use one or the other or both at the same time? or will I have to connect to only one router at a time?

The home grade switches will not care about or learn the IP addresses, everything works off of the MAC address. With a managed switch and VLAN tagging it will only send the tagged VLAN packets to all active ports in the VLAN. Hence this is why home grade switches are primarily layer 2 switches. Even if these were layer 3 switches, you would just need to add some route statements to specify this IP subnet is located here.
With regards to your wireless, as beers mentioned just make sure you have the 2 devices on different channels...i.e. channel 1 and channel 11. As long as you are not on stateful connection (examples: https or ssl are a couple) while moving from one side of the house to the other it should reconnect. However it should also be a best practice to limit those connection types to a more secure and wired connection.
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