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What lens should i buy? - Page 4

post #31 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Furad View Post

I think it's pretty clear that below $700 the a33/35 is superior. Higher IQ,

Ok, so let's break this down, objectively.
Quote:
more dynamic range,

Than what? A T2i? Yes, it does. Apx. 1EV, which is easily recoverable in RAW processing or by using HTP.

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-cameras-side-by-side/%28appareil1%29/716|0/%28brand%29/Sony/%28appareil2%29/698|0/%28brand2%29/Nikon/%28appareil3%29/645|0/%28brand3%29/Canon

But what does that link really tell us?

sensorspecs.png

Clearly, the a35 has a larger DR until about 640ISO, where it is ousted by both the T2i and D5100 (and quite mightily by the latter across the board). So if you're a low-ISO landscape shooter that doesn't care to work in RAW format, the a35 may be the better option in that regard.
Quote:
auto HDR,

Could be useful if you're an HDR junkie, I suppose. Software and technique (exposure blending) trump this, IMO.
Quote:
phase detect AF even in video,

PDAF in video isn't going to be putting any focus pullers out of jobs, and you still have the issue of focusing noise being captured by even an external mic. Sony's SSM drive is still audible, as is Canon's USM, et al.
Quote:
7fps,

And how deep is the buffer? Not only that, but the EVF presents a timing issue, where the actual shot is behind (in regards to capture time) the displayed image. It is marginal, of course, but that small margin may make or break a great action photo.
Quote:
in body IS,

Useful if you don't use a tripod, although the verdict is still out on whether it's better than in-lens stabilization -- this not only refers to its actual effectiveness in the final image, but it doesn't stabilize the finder, which is a HUGE negative if you're a telephoto shooter or expect exact framing.
Quote:
in camera panoramic,

Just like every other camera body with this option, it still shows ghosting from mismatched images.
Quote:
wireless flash controller

Useful if you're a flash user, but then why make such a big stink about sensor stabilization?
Quote:
etc.. I'm seriously not trying to be a fanboy, these are just facts. If you want a Canon or Nikon in this price range that does less then that's your choice.

We still have the issue of lens quality/availability, and the MP industry has pretty much solidified Canon as the #1 for HDSLR video capture. Did they use any Sony cameras in any recent Hollywood title? My guess is no.
Quote:
Personally, I like bang for the buck.

And, clearly, you're the precise demographc Sony wants to sell to.
Quote:
EDIT: Even the OP is having to worry about getting IS lens... That's just another + that I don't even have to think about that.


IS is useless for some people, and not desirable in some situations, It is certainly not the end-all feature that you are implying.
post #32 of 47
Thread Starter 
Is mid-range or cheapest 50MM from cannon going to do the job for low light? Using ISO instead of flash?

And if i'm going to use flash, what should i buy? Preferably from Canon and can keep up with the burst rate of the 60D.
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post #33 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedster159 View Post

Is mid-range or cheapest 50MM from cannon going to do the job for low light? Using ISO instead of flash?
And if i'm going to use flash, what should i buy? Preferably from Canon and can keep up with the burst rate of the 60D.

50 1.8 should be fine for a beginner. I seriously would stay away from the Canon 50 1.4 unless you buy a used one that you know focuses correctly. There's also the Sigma 50 1.4, but again, focusing problems are common. Possibly even more common than with the Canon 50 1.4.

There is no shoe mounted flash that can keep up with the burst rate of the 60D. That being said, you want something that allows you to bounce flash and has a decent amount of power. I'd go with at least a 430 EX II. There are also cheaper third party brand flashes as well, but I have no experience with them.
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post #34 of 47
Thread Starter 
o.o I missed out on alot of posts... Been watching DigitalRevTV...


Aren't all flashes shoe mounts? o.0
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post #35 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedster159 View Post

o.o I missed out on alot of posts... Been watching DigitalRevTV...
Aren't all flashes shoe mounts? o.0

They are, but they have the ability to be mounted in a stand for much more versatile lighting. In some cases you have to also use a wireless radio to control your flash off the body.
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post #36 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedster159 View Post

o.o I missed out on alot of posts... Been watching DigitalRevTV...
Aren't all flashes shoe mounts? o.0

AlienBees are marketed as flashes.
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post #37 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Furad View Post

They are, but they have the ability to be mounted in a stand for much more versatile lighting. In some cases you have to also use a wireless radio to control your flash off the body.

Okay.. But don't they have a stand? Or i could just do it redneck style...
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post #38 of 47
Thread Starter 
...

I think i'm going with a... Brand new...

60D
18-135mm
50mm
Lens hood x2
UV Filter x2
Some speedlight flash
Canon Bag
32GB SDXC Card

Optional...

Battery Grip
Extra Battery
18-55mm

I wonder how much thats gonna cost..
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post #39 of 47
Sounds like a good start!
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post #40 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedster159 View Post

...
I think i'm going with a... Brand new...
60D
18-135mm
50mm
Lens hood x2
UV Filter x2
Some speedlight flash
Canon Bag
32GB SDXC Card
Optional...
Battery Grip
Extra Battery
18-55mm
I wonder how much thats gonna cost..

Some things to note:

-There is absolutely no point in getting both the 18-135mm and 18-55mm. They're both general use zooms with one having a longer reach than the other. Buying both is simply a waste of money, period.

-Just in case you don't already know: Lens hoods are specific to the lens. So there's a lens hood model made for the 18-135mm and there's one made for the 50mm.

-Personally, I'd look into two cards instead of one. I feel safer with 2x 16GB cards than a single 32GB card. Reason being is if something were to happen in the field (card dies, I lose the card, etc.), not only will I lose all my photos, but I'd have no media to shoot on anymore.
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