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Flushing your loop. Need answer to question please! - Page 2

post #11 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob808 View Post

Is that where the very slight green tint is coming from? The copper reacting to the vinigar?
You too sir, have been repped!
Is it safe to run this 9% vinigar solution for 24 hrs, or should I drain it after a hour or two?

you should be safe running it for 24hr if you want to, I personally would do it for maybe 2 to 4 hrs then flush with clean water for 2 to 4 hrs.

The green tint could be a merit of things from flax, algae, or even bacteria. This a good sign however, as the vinegar / water solution is doing it's job. Just keep flushing till the water is crystal clear.
post #12 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob808 View Post

Is that where the very slight green tint is coming from? The copper reacting to the vinigar?
You too sir, have been repped!
Is it safe to run this 9% vinigar solution for 24 hrs, or should I drain it after a hour or two?

green tint is cooper oxidization like the statue of liberty, Honestly I would disassemble the entire loop and clean each waterblock e. follow this guide(http://www.overclock.net/t/695647/how-to-clean-waterblock-make-a-caipirinha-and-clean-your-waterblock/0_100). If your lazy than diluted vingear will work but its not as thorough. Beaware that vinegar will damage orings.
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post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawjai526 View Post

green tint is cooper oxidization like the statue of liberty, Honestly I would disassemble the entire loop and clean each waterblock e. follow this guide(http://www.overclock.net/t/695647/how-to-clean-waterblock-make-a-caipirinha-and-clean-your-waterblock/0_100). If your lazy than diluted vingear will work but its not as thorough. Beaware that vinegar will damage orings.

I looked inside the blocks as far as I could when I had the loop torn apart and they looked pretty darn clean. I did notice a slight white residue inside the barbs and in the reservoir though. If I was going to take apart all the blocks, I would have when I had everything out of the case, but they honestly didnt look very bad at all.

I did take apart one of my EK chipset blocks to check for flaking nickel, and it looked clean and no signs of flaking/eroding smile.gif
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post #14 of 17
The whitish residue could be plasticizer leech from your old tubing, gunk and residue tend to stick to my rads and fittings from what I've had.
post #15 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob808 View Post

I looked inside the blocks as far as I could when I had the loop torn apart and they looked pretty darn clean. I did notice a slight white residue inside the barbs and in the reservoir though. If I was going to take apart all the blocks, I would have when I had everything out of the case, but they honestly didnt look very bad at all.
I did take apart one of my EK chipset blocks to check for flaking nickel, and it looked clean and no signs of flaking/eroding smile.gif

I believe those white residue is from water, or could be what the previous post suggested, tubing residue.
sounds good, I usually inspect the block each time I add/arrange the waterloop but I do a complete overhaul(clean) annually.
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post #16 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrybutcher View Post

You can fill the loop with vinegar if you want, just don't run it more than a couple minutes. Also watch any acrylic. Other than that, it should be fine. Even if you use a very diluted solution, make sure to fully flush the loop as it will corrode any bare copper over time.

Vinegar won't hurt the acrylic. In the fish hobby world cleaning your acrylic tank with a mix of water + vinegar is standard practice.
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post #17 of 17
Vinegar can damage the o-ring. I would disassemble the blocks and use a stiff bristle tooth brush and the vinegar solution to scrub them clean (remove o-rings first) and flush the radiators with the same 10% solution. Heated solution works best.
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