Ok time to do the mini build log- if a Mod would we might wana add a link to the OP post to this post or something:
parts list (some of what I used- some choice up to you)
1x 1 inch Pipe
1x 3/4 inch Pipe
2x 45 degree fittings
1x 4-way Fitting (or cross)
1x Threaded adapter to fit largest size pipe to connect to flange
1x 12x12 inch Steel plate (if not mounting to your desk"
12x M4 screws, 35mm length
6x Clamps to fit Largest size pipe
12x clamps to fit Clamps
12x nuts to fit bolts for clamps
4x bolts that will fit Flange holes
4x nuts to fit bolts
4x washers- optional but help get the nuts down tight on the flange as it has tapered holes because its made to be mounted the opposite way we will be mounting it.
Here We have 1 inch, 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch pipe
Now we need to cut the pipe to the appropriate lengths. I have 3x 24 inch monitors, so I'm going to need 2 cuts at a length of 24 inches and another 2 cuts at a length of 12 inches, and 1 cut at around 8~10 inches (I think I chose 8)
There we go, all Nice and Cut up. Now to the "Forging" part. Its not really Forging, but the same principles will apply. To Do this You will need a Heat gun and a rubber mallet. I decided to go with the 1" and 3/4 forging. You can do the 3/4 and 1/2, but you will need to take more time sanding down the 1/2" before starting the process. As for the process, what I did was set my heat gun up so that the hot air blew upwards, and while wearing gloves, took my 1" pipe and held it about 2 inches above the gun and counted to about 5 seconds (1 Mississippi etc). Then moved away from the heat, grabbed my 3/4 and wiggled into into the 1" as at this point the 1" is fairly "rubbery" at the end closest to the heat gun. Once in a little bit, I took the mallet, placed the 3/4 inch on concrete/something hard, and have the 1" end a few good taps till I noticed a pitch change (meaning the pipes were no longer moving together) flipped the assembly over and gave the 3/4 inch end a few good taps until the pitch changed again.
Take your pipe back over, holding the largest end down towards the gun let the hot air rise up again for a few seconds and repeat the last part. Few hits on one end, flip few hits on the other. This process took about 15 to 20 for the 24 inch pieces, and about 10 to 15 for the other 3. Please note DO NOT HEAT THE PIPE FOR MORE THAN A FEW SECONDS, OTHER WISE IT WILL BE TO RUBBERY TO USE THE MALLET ON.
here is the finished work:
The fittings and 3/4 inch Flange that are going to be used
Now the... annoying part as it takes more time and finesse than any of the other parts (including the block sanding), and thats sanding down the connection areas. I used small 5x5 60/100/150 grit sand paper. Started with the 60 and rubbed a little, checked to see if the fitting would attach, if not I'd go back to sanding more. I did this till the fitting would just bearly slide over the pipe. Then I moved over to the 100 grit, and did this for a while till I could get the fitting most of the way on, once I could I moved over to the 150 and repeated again till I could get the fitting all the way on. Now at first this is a big deal so what just takes time, but one needs to be careful and not remove to much of the pipe and allow the fitting to be too loose, we need the friction created by the twisting motion to lock or pieces in place*.
Take a look:
The next step is going to be gluing Key pieces together. Our 2x 12 inch pieces to our 4-way fitting, the 2x 45's to our 24" inch pieces, and our 1 inch to 3/4 inch threaded adapter to our Riser. By doing it this way we create the option for the mount to be broken down in case of breaks or monitor changes.
Now lets get our mounting stuff taken care of. First we will need to clean the steel plate as it looks like this:
all nice and clean
To do this I used a standard screw gun, and a metal brush as seen here:
Took a few mintues to do both sides, and both sides must be done.
Next up is to drill the holes, I needed to use a 1/4 inch drill bit for my bolts:
This was done on a drill press for 2 reasons, good strait holes with out worry and constant pressure = good clean holes.
but there was a problem:
If you can't tell in the picture, my bolt doesn't sit flush on against the plate, so lets rectify that!
I used a counter sink drill bit, and slowly drilled out the hole till my bolt just sat flush, I did this 3 more times, taking no more than about 30 minutes from start to finish with a nice end result:
With the holes drilled and counter sunk, lets get that flange attached:
I wasn't quite sure how how long a bolt I needed, so as you can see they stick out a bit far, lets rectify that:
using a Dremel with aluminum reinforced cutting discs I cut the bolts off just above the nut. this did leave little blemishes on the nuts, so I got out some of the polishing tools and polished things up.
For the next step I used 3/4 ply wood (I had LOTS of spare 3/4 plywood lying around from another DIY project I'm working on). I cut them to 5x5 inches, and used a guide for the 100mm vesa mounts my monitors have (I think 100mm is standard on monitors haven't really come across larger or smaller). Once they were drilled I went ahead and sanded them down as well.
Lets see how it looks against our pipe:
oh no, looks like we need a new center pieces. I went with 6.5 x 6.5 inches on the new center pieces to get it just the way I wanted. However, I know i'm going to have to do some fixing to it for cable connections- so check yours monitors as well for any cabling issues.
with a new center block ready, lets get the clamps mounted on them first before we paint and sand (again).
looks good, everything lined up nice and strait. To do this, I positioned my clamps first, used a C clamp to hold the metal clamp and wood in place, drilled the holes, attached 2 bolts, then removed the C clamp. I attached the bolts very firmly at that, so when I removed the C-clamp the pipe wouldn't be able to wiggle while I did the others.
now lets get these painted:
Now the paint:
This is a Quick Drying lacquer paint that works on woods, most metals and most plastics, which leaves us here for now (9/28/13):
*Note: If you do go to far, just run down and get 2x of a male and female screw fittings. You want 2 to make it look symmetrical- as of this post I have a feeling I will need to do this, will update if I do.
Another option is to get a nut n bolt for each end of the loose fitting, drill a hole through the fitting and bolt it up.Edited by th3m3nt4l - 10/12/13 at 4:27pm