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Any Case Labs cases which can hold 1080/1260 sized radiators with little to no modification? - Page 2

post #11 of 23
FYI (I promised to check): If using 25mm fans, there would be .90" (23mm) to the door panel. With the proximity of the ventilation holes, the fans should operate fine without being starved for air
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Zeus (X99)
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post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
Great response! Thanks! smile.gif
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post #13 of 23
Don't forget thta the true advantage of 9x120 rad, is that it can work with 4x 180mm (which means you can run powerful setup with less quiet fans). Otherwise there is no gain, vs just three standard 360 (it is even possible 3 rads are slightly more efficient). Normally these big rads are popular as external, as it is one rad, but efficiency of 3, but if you are going to install it internally, that advantage is pretty much gone.
post #14 of 23
That's one of the reasons I'm looking at these, the option of using 4x180mm fans instead of 9x120mm. The other reason is that 1 1080mm rad is, even with a 180mm grill added for the Phobya radiator, cheaper than 3 360mm rads. That never hurts.... smile.gif
post #15 of 23
I might as well jump in this one since I've now got my TH10 running tonight with the Mora3 (120.9) inside the case.

There are a number of issues that I'm working on with Jim but here is my 2 cents from someone that has this setup:

The TH10 is far too small for a rad as large as the MORA3. The Phyoba *might* be a little better but the MORA3 is slightly larger (hence some of my issues).

I was able to jam ... and I mean JAM the MORA3 inside the case but it is right flush against the front (likely scratching my paint argh) and is VERY tight against my CoolerMaster 1000W power supply cables coming out of the power supply. So much so I am worried about it fraying or breaking from stress in the future.

The second issue is you now have ZERO room inside the power supply side to run wires and work on the setup. The entire purpose of these monster cases is all the room you have inside... these rad's simply kill that space.

I'll post pics in my build thread once I get some time.

---

Until I get everything all worked out, I would recommend a TX10 for any large rad installs. That way you can install the rad in the roof of the case or if you're really crazy, in the pedestal (man that is a tall case then).

What we really need is a TH10 that is the same width of the TX10, double flex bays. That way we could install these rads on the roof or base.

I now wish I had switched to the TX10... I had thought about it but just couldn't tell how tight things would be from the pictures... We'll see how things go but I may end up selling this TH10 to pay for a TX10.

Cheers
Tim
post #16 of 23
This is something I was wondering about, good to know. I still think the way to go with these monster rads would be to mount them directly to the door, but that would put all the weight on the door panel (this could be reinforced) and on the door hinge (this might be the real problem). Right now, with them mounted into the middle of the PSU bay, they eat up all the space and leave you wondering if enough air is getting in or out. Mounting them to the door would leave more space inside the case and avoid the air concerns, but I don't know if the hinge issue is fixable. And, of course, Jim has suggested that making a custom door like this might not be financially practical.

Yeah, the Phobya 1080 is a bit smaller (25mm x 18mm x 19mm) than the MO-RA3 which it sounds like would help.
post #17 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdolson View Post

This is something I was wondering about, good to know. I still think the way to go with these monster rads would be to mount them directly to the door, but that would put all the weight on the door panel (this could be reinforced) and on the door hinge (this might be the real problem). Right now, with them mounted into the middle of the PSU bay, they eat up all the space and leave you wondering if enough air is getting in or out. Mounting them to the door would leave more space inside the case and avoid the air concerns, but I don't know if the hinge issue is fixable. And, of course, Jim has suggested that making a custom door like this might not be financially practical.
Yeah, the Phobya 1080 is a bit smaller (25mm x 18mm x 19mm) than the MO-RA3 which it sounds like would help.

Yeah not only would it put stress on the hinges but it goes against the design philosophy where you can quickly remove all external panels and be left with a strong open frame that you can attach all your components too. Personally I think those mounts are a compromise as are the rads - there are better choices in mount position inside the case and for rads (the mora's aren't the best performers comparing surface area to surface area) - they only do well when running passively, but that really requires them to be horizontal. Having said that I'm getting one for my TX10 because I want to have my workstation running silently and a 140.9 just for the cpu should allow the chip to still have awesome performance.
     
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post #18 of 23
How about we use the existing mounting holes on the inside edge and create a new "inner" door that allows the 120.9 to be swung out on a good sized set of hinges.

It would bolt right into the vertical/horizontal brace holes all along the edges.

Remember for the Mora3, it has chassis mounts built in, we don't need to use the large-hold-it-by-the-fan-holes method, no idea on other rads.
post #19 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorvald View Post

I might as well jump in this one since I've now got my TH10 running tonight with the Mora3 (120.9) inside the case.
There are a number of issues that I'm working on with Jim but here is my 2 cents from someone that has this setup:
The TH10 is far too small for a rad as large as the MORA3. The Phyoba *might* be a little better but the MORA3 is slightly larger (hence some of my issues).
I was able to jam ... and I mean JAM the MORA3 inside the case but it is right flush against the front (likely scratching my paint argh) and is VERY tight against my CoolerMaster 1000W power supply cables coming out of the power supply. So much so I am worried about it fraying or breaking from stress in the future.
The second issue is you now have ZERO room inside the power supply side to run wires and work on the setup. The entire purpose of these monster cases is all the room you have inside... these rad's simply kill that space.
I'll post pics in my build thread once I get some time.
---
Until I get everything all worked out, I would recommend a TX10 for any large rad installs. That way you can install the rad in the roof of the case or if you're really crazy, in the pedestal (man that is a tall case then).
What we really need is a TH10 that is the same width of the TX10, double flex bays. That way we could install these rads on the roof or base.
I now wish I had switched to the TX10... I had thought about it but just couldn't tell how tight things would be from the pictures... We'll see how things go but I may end up selling this TH10 to pay for a TX10.
Cheers
Tim

Would love to see some pics if you get the chance! Thanks for your input!
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BzzT!
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post #20 of 23
I liked the performance of the Phobya 1260, but couldn't find any case that would house it comfortably. Although MM Extended Ascension was an option, there would have been quite a bit of custom drilling and even then, airflow wouldn't be all that super. So I set about to make a radbox. And as long as I was making a radbox, I decided it should be a dual radbox. And that the 1260s should be running fans on both sides. So I bought two radiators and fabricated fan templates so that I could mount 220mm fans on both sides. Below is a pic of the dual phobya 1260 radbox. Don't get discouraged from using those bigger radiators. My temps at idle are about 1C above ambient, and 2C above that following Prime95

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