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Best water cooling clear tubing and liquid? - Page 4

post #31 of 35
I used 30ml of Mayhems deep blue in my last loop, it didn't gunk up. If 30ml didn't gunk up I highly doubt that the 1 or 2ml a normal loop would use would cause any issues.

Tick with Primoflex LRT for sure though. Even Tygon 2001 will cloud within a matter of weeks.
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Big Lian Li
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post #32 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by phenom01 View Post

IF THE tubing is GONNA turn blue....then why not buy blue tubing and avoid all the adverse affects?

Because it is not nearly the same look.. and the mayhem dye mix I make would have to be ( by dumb luck ) produced by the market.
Instead I just get the color I want by mixing as much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phenom01 View Post

Different mayhem dyes buildup after different times. For a new WC testing the waters. Why risk it? Some gum up after a few months some after 18 months. On a side note ALL dyes stain everything they touch after time. So if its gonna stain the tubing...why not buy colored tubing????????

because I still get the beauty of clear tubing... colored tubing does not look like stained clear tubing. Stained clear tubing still has that clear glassy look with color inside it. colored tubing looks like colored glassy/plastic with liquid inside. not the same not nearly as exotic or complex to an eye that can see as much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phenom01 View Post

SLighty blue tubing+ blue coolant will look like what? BLUE tubing.

wrong it will look like clear tubing with colored liquid until drained.. at worst it will look like stain from the inside if mixed with cloudyness.
( seperate issue )

I would actually prefer clear tubing that was colored on the inside layer!
( instead of throughout! )
That way I could have my color in my glss cup look without needing a colored liquid!

I have tried to this myself in a real ghetto fashion ( paint the inside of tubing )
But with streaks and chemical paranoia.

I like to use the thick wall tubing to get the exxagerate effect of a clear wall.

The following pic... ( green liquid "inside" and note the thick wall tube gives you a clear thickness... NOT a colored wall )
like so: ( click for large view and better view )
450

even where refraction of green gives the illusion of complete green depending on the curvature and light...
The clear tube still gives a different impression if there was no clear outer plastic wall.

It would not look nearly as glassy, sexy or complex as the caveman solution of colored tubing.
( altho I could go for the brilliant solution of inner colored tubing... to save alot of time. )
( but on second thought the amount of blue I add to acid yello or red to get a good acid green or bloody red would probably not be mass produced so back to the drawing board otherwise )


Quote:
Originally Posted by pwnography6 View Post

No dyes no coolant. Go for good old fashioned distilled+ killcoil with some coloured tubing if you want colour. Basicly what most people don't know when building there first loop. is you don't really see any movement in the water in your loop except for bubbles while bleeding and a lil action in the res.
Iv tried both dye and colour tubing on my test rack and to be honest you cant tell theres a difference.


sigh...
could most people not tell the difference if they had two glasses of liquid in front of them where one was green liquid in a clear glass and the other was clear liquid in green glass?? ( like in the tube example above )
Edited by claydough - 5/5/12 at 4:47am
post #33 of 35
Sorry for the necro, but I figured I would add that I have been running a no-name dye (made from hi-lighter ink) in my loop since 2008, have never changed out the liquid, and have lost nothing more than a few mL of liquid to evaporation in the 4 years since I built the loop. Today I received my new video cards, and blocks, so I drained/disassembled the loop, and opened up my old video card blocks (Swiftech MCW60 x2) which ARE impingement blocks. Not a bit of goop or buildup, and only very minor stains. I run all-copper blocks and clear tubing (Tygon R-3603) with a 30/70 mix of pure ethylene glycol and RO distilled water. I added enough dye that the water was nearly opaque, so it isn't like I had a very low concentration of it in there either.

The only time I have EVER heard of dyes gooping up, is when someone is running a loop with a leak that causes them to lose liquid, so they keep topping off their reservoir with more and more DYED liquid. This causes the concentration of dye to go up every time you put more in the loop. To fight this is as simple as plugging the leaks in your loop, and topping it off with water, NOT dyed water.

I am sure there are a few cases of goopy blocks due to EXTREMELY high temps, causing the dye to literally cook inside the block, but if that is the case, your loop was not designed properly in the first place, since your temps should never get that high. This would be caused by a pump failure, or something else in the loop causing a blockage to impede the flow, and you still running the machine while it overheated. Again, this is simply solved by just hooking your pump (which hopefully has a monitoring lead for a 3-pin fan header) to a fan header on your motherboard that measures RPM, and setting the threshold to shut down the machine if the pump is spinning slower than it should.

To those who may be curious, I came upon this thread from a google search, to see if the recommended tubing has changed since 2008 wink.gif
post #34 of 35
I would also caution people to run their loop WITHOUT dye for the first few days to get all the bubbles out before adding the dye. An air bubble in a block could be enough to allow certain dyes to pool up.
post #35 of 35
z
Edited by zzzz - 7/25/12 at 8:32pm
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