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are there any underclocking/undervolting guide?

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
I realize people here are typically interested in overclocking:D but are there any good guides for underclocking / undervolting for pure passive cooling purposes? more specifically would it possible to underclock/volt a 7970(28nm) to perform as well as say a 6870(40nm) while using passive cooling?
post #2 of 20
Wouldn't want my graphics card passive cooled especially a 79 or 69 high end series, you can still try n lower the volts though
post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
well, it's not completely passive. there is still a decent amount of case airflow that will go directly over the GPU. I'm just tired of the GPU being the loudest part of my system and for my gaming purposes I need something that is at least as powerful as a 6870 with the possibility to grow if future game demands it. I'm not a believer in liquid or SLi/xfire so it'll have to be a single card air cooled solution. that's why i'm looking at maybe downclocking/volting a 7970 to try to match my specifications.
post #4 of 20
its the same thing.

1) underclock freq / mem / volts
2) Furmark for 15 min to check for artifacts
3) Repeat
4) ???
5) Profit
post #5 of 20
Why would you want to lower the cards performance? Does the sound really bother you that much? If you have that much dough to throw at a video card then you can surely afford to put it underwater...

Imo it seems like a huge waste of cash to buy a high end card to just have it under perform.
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post #6 of 20
after market gpu heatsink is win, i did it due to the annoying noise while gaming and obviously the heat
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post #7 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloudpost View Post

its the same thing.
1) underclock freq / mem / volts
2) Furmark for 15 min to check for artifacts
3) Repeat
4) ???
5) Profit

well thats kinda the problem. I'm under the impression that undervolting a chip can actually do more harm then overvolting a chip. with undervolting, you are essentially putting your chip in a brownout situation and there isn't any heat metric to indicate if you are damaging the chip. I guess the only way to see if the chip is being damaged is if furmark doesn't come back stable. was hoping to see some kind of guideline as to how low is too low or what increments to use for freq/mem/volt? are there any ratio i should try to keep for freq/mem vs volt? stuff like that.
post #8 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclum View Post

well thats kinda the problem. I'm under the impression that undervolting a chip can actually do more harm then overvolting a chip. with undervolting, you are essentially putting your chip in a brownout situation and there isn't any heat metric to indicate if you are damaging the chip. I guess the only way to see if the chip is being damaged is if furmark doesn't come back stable. was hoping to see some kind of guideline as to how low is too low or what increments to use for freq/mem/volt? are there any ratio i should try to keep for freq/mem vs volt? stuff like that.

I don't think instability due to low voltage will hurt a chip. It will just cause errors in the data. But I could be wrong.

I tried to passively cool my Asus 6870 with a Arctic Cooling Accellero S1 Rev. 2. It worked, but hit 85 degrees and was still climbing when I stopped the stress tests. I did not experiment with undervolting. I also have a FT02 like I assume you do because of your avatar. I ended up just putting the stock cooler back on.
    
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post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 
yah i do have the FT02 and it's the only reason i'd even consider passively cooling the GPU:D the primary problem with passively cooling the GPU is most aftermarket GPU heatsinks that is capable of handling 200+watt cards have their cooling fin orientation optimized for internal exhaust rather then external exhaust. the orientation of the fins does not take advantage of the directional airflow of the AP181's. and would not work without additional fan which disrupts the airflow design of the FT02.

I'm still considering the thermalright shaman as an possible alternative, but I just wished the cooling fin orientation was for external exhaust rather then internal exhaust
post #10 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclum View Post

yah i do have the FT02 and it's the only reason i'd even consider passively cooling the GPU:D the primary problem with passively cooling the GPU is most aftermarket GPU heatsinks that is capable of handling 200+watt cards have their cooling fin orientation optimized for internal exhaust rather then external exhaust. the orientation of the fins does not take advantage of the directional airflow of the AP181's. and would not work without additional fan which disrupts the airflow design of the FT02.
I'm still considering the thermalright shaman as an possible alternative, but I just wished the cooling fin orientation was for external exhaust rather then internal exhaust

Yeah fin orientation is why I chose the accelero S1. They have a new model out now but it looks very similar. I think the vertical layout of the FT02 makes it challenging as well. Heat pipe don't perform well when the hot part of the heat pipe is above the cooling part. The fluid inside likes to be assisted by gravity to flow back down to the hot section. With the Accelero S1 inside a FT02 only 2 of the heatpipes are oriented optimally. The other 2 are oriented poorly. I felt them by hand and only the top 2 heat pipes (the proper oriented ones) were hot to the touch. The bottom 2 didn't seem to be conducting even 50% as much heat as the top 2.

I also looked at the Shaman but the surface area seems to be pretty low. There are 8 heatpipes compared to 4 though. Who knows... I do know that wide fin spacing is important for passive coolers. If the fins are too close they inhibit airflow.

I had also purchased a Thermalright HR-03 cooler from a OCN member but he scammed me and never delivered the parts. Yeah you know who you are, jerk...
Edited by Epitope - 1/10/12 at 5:55am
    
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