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[Official] AMD Radeon HD 7950/7970/7990 Owners Thread - Page 753

post #7521 of 38701
Next question - about AA injection. Do I need to keep CCC like up (or in the sys tray) - or can I just assume it's going if ccc.exe is on my task manager? Additionally, is it worthless then to run benches with MSAA on? Specifically in Heaven just now, it didn't seem like it was doing anything to have injection running, if I turned off msaa in the program.
 
Thanks Geritol!
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Thanks Geritol!
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post #7522 of 38701
what is the max volt for 7950 for 7/24
post #7523 of 38701
Quote:
Originally Posted by quakermaas View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken1649 View Post

I have done further testing with the sleep crash issue.

 

Tested with identical motherboard (X79 Chipset) but different Lot #, it crash coming out of sleep state as you guys described. Tested with other VGA cards (5870, 580) same result.

 

Contacted manufacturer, came back with reply the motherboard with specifics Lot # has compatibility issue with PSU (Enermax 1500W and AX1200). 

 

Two idendital motherboards, one without issue and the other one has PSU compatibility issue.


Its not that I dont believe you, but it completely baffles me how a motherboard can have PSU compatibility issues.

PSU is just supplying the power, its not like there is any communication between the two  headscratch.gif

 

 



I didn't pursue the details further because this is not user fixable (hardware limitation - components used in the motherboard). They will send another 2 new boards with 2 different Lot # to try.

 

By common sense it has to do with the power plane components used in this specific Lot # of the motherboard and the PSU Active PFC. So, when the system goes into sleep or hibernate state, it will put the PSU in standby or low power standby state (ErP- in BIOS) and a certain amount on the motherboard. When the PC coming out of sleep/hibernate, it will need the power distribution and sufficient amount in terms of voltage and wattage for the bios to initiate the power cycle. Failing which will prevent the system to fully recover/resume result in crash/BSOD. The BIOS is smart enough to detect such shortages then shutdown/restart system to prevent damage. Hope that makes sense from a user point of view.

 

 

Compatibility issues for ATX power supplies and motherboards

 

When ATX was originally introduced there was just one kind of ATX power supply. If you had an ATX power supply and an ATX motherboard then you plugged them together and they worked. At least they did if the power supply delivered enough wattage. Back then ATX life was simple. Nowadays things are a bit more complicated. Now you can get an ATX power supply and ATX motherboard and end up with connectors which don't match. Even if the connectors do match you can still run into trouble even though the power supply appears to have sufficient wattage. This page introduces you to the issues you need to consider to maximize the chance that an ATX power supply and motherboard will work together properly. The information below is just a summary. The green links provide more detailed information on the subject.

 

The motherboard main power cables

 

The ATX standard has two different versions of the main power cable: the original 20 pin cable, and the the newer 24 pin cable. The 24 pin cable is just the 20 pin cable with 4 extra wires added to the end to provide extra current. If your power supply main power cable and motherboard main power connector both have the same number of pins then they'll (of course) fit together just fine. But what happens if they don't match? If you plug a 24 pin power cable into a 20 pin motherboard then it will work fine but you often can't get them to physically fit together because something gets in the way. If they don't fit together then you can get an adapter cable which converts a 24 pin power cable into a 20 pin cable. You can always plug a 20 pin power cable into a 24 pin motherboard but whether it works over the long haul depends on how much current your motherboard draws. Those extra 4 pins provide more current carrying capacity. Plugging a 20 pin cable into a 24 pin motherboard can strain the 20 pins that you're using. If the motherboard draws too much current then it will overheat the connector which can burn or melt it. There are adapters which convert 20 pin cables into 24 pin cables but they don't solve the problem and can cause problems of their own. Many newer power supplies come with a 20+4 power cable which has a 24 pin connector which can be split into two pieces: a 20 pin piece, and a 4 pin piece. This kind of power cable is fully compatible with both 20 and 24 pin motherboards. If you're buying a new power supply then try to get one with a 20+4 power cable.

 

The 12V CPU power cables

 

CPUs used to be powered by the 20 pin main power cable. Almost all current motherboards power their CPU with a 12 volt CPU power cable. There are two kinds: the 4 pin 12V cable and the 8 pin 12V cable. The 4 pin cable is often called a P4 cable (although it's a very bad name) and the 8 pin cable is called an EPS12V cable. You must plug a cable into this motherboard connector or the CPU will receive no power. The compatibility rules between 4 and 8 pin connectors have a lot in common with the rules for 20 and 24 pin connectors. The best choice is to plug a 4 pin cable into a 4 pin connector, an 8 pin cable into an 8 pin connector, or a 4+4 cable into either kind of connector. You can get adapters which will convert various kinds of power supply cables into both 4 pin and 8 pin 12V cables. You can plug a 4 pin 12V cable into an 8 pin motherboard and it will sometimes work properly but other times it won't work at all or will burn/melt the connector. As with plugging a 24 pin cable into a 20 pin motherboard connector, you can plug an 8 pin cable into a 4 pin connector and leave 4 pins hanging over the end but you can also have the same problems with things preventing it from fitting. It will work fine if it fits. If you're buying a new power supply then the safest choice for the long haul is to get one with a 4+4 power cable because it's compatible with both 4 and 8 pin connectors.

 

The aux power cable

 

A cable you're not likely to run into is the 6 pin aux connector. Some older AMD dual CPU motherboards have them. If the motherboard requires this connector then you have to get a power supply which provides one. Most current power supplies don't have aux cables and aux cable adapters apparently don't exist (unless you're good with a soldering iron and can build your own).

 

Where's most of the load? 3.3/5 volts or 12 volts?

 

How a computer uses power has gone through a lot of changes over the years. Older machines used to consume most of their power from the 3.3/5 volt rail. Since the Athlon 64 and Pentium 4, computers have consumed most of their power from the 12 volt rail. Older power supplies provided the bulk of their wattage on the 3.3/5 volt rail and new supplies deliver it on the 12 volt rail. As a result, you need to be careful when plugging an old power supply into a new computer or a new supply into an old computer. If you know that the power supply won't be used in an older computer then you can use an ATX12V 2.0 or newer power supply which delivers the bulk of its power on the 12 volt rail and not much power (less than 150 watts) on the 3.3/5 volt rail. If you need a power supply for an older computer then you can use an ATX12V 1.3 or earlier power supply which provides most of its power on 3.3/5. There are also many newer ATX12V 2.0 or newer power supplies which provide enough wattage on 12 volts for newer computers as well as enough wattage on 3.3/5 for older computers. Those are the best supplies because they provide enough wattage for all kinds of machines.

 

Obscure considerations

 

If you're easily worried then you might want to skip this paragraph. Most of the things mentioned here are either more detail than you need to know or problems which rarely crop up. But these issues are listed for the thorough types out there (you know who you are). If you've been researching power supplies then you've probably noticed that newer ones usually come with dual 12 volt rails. Sometimes they have three or even four 12 volt rails. This subject of multiple 12 volt rails is more complicated then you may think. And if you have a multiple 12 volt rail power supply in a very high-powered computer then you may have to deal with rail balancing problems. You can have cross loading problems with some power supplies if you draw unbalanced amounts of wattage from the 3.3/5 volt and 12 volt rails. You can even get into trouble if you draw too little wattage.


Edited by Ken1649 - 3/27/12 at 3:24am
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post #7524 of 38701
Quote:
Originally Posted by mltms View Post

what is the max volt for 7950 for 7/24

Stock Volt + 125mV
post #7525 of 38701
Quote:
Originally Posted by mltms View Post

what is the max volt for 7950 for 7/24


For me the stock voltage is 1090mv + 125mv - 20mv vdrop = 1195mv
I keep 1175mv for safety measures though.
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post #7526 of 38701
I tested my 7970 at 1165mhz/1.20mv (not 100% stable) and found that HWiNFO reports 1.162mv as my max VID. Tested with crysis 2 and unigine for 45 minutes , max VID stays at 1.162mv. I know that some vdroop is common , but isn't mine somehow wide?
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post #7527 of 38701
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norlig View Post

Stock Volt + 125mV

i am it 1.218 volt
1140/1550
post #7528 of 38701
Do I need to install 12.2 cap1 after installing the 8.95.5 driver?
post #7529 of 38701
Straight Q: What's the best BF3 driver for a 7970? I've switched from a 6850 cfx to 7970 and the fps drops in BF3 are terrible. Right now I'm using fresh W7 x64 with 8.951.1 05 March (tried them all) and it's awful, I've never thought that I'll spend 500$ on a graphics card and not be able to run BF3 @ 60fps without massive drops at ultra + high. I know, my 1090T @ 4.0GHz might be a bottleneck or something, but 6850 cfx ran well at high settings with the same CPU, fps drops were so much fewer.

Am I the only one with this problem? A little bench numbers made with Fraps: Caspian Border - 64p, Conquest: min 34fps / avg 59,7fps. Keep in mind that I use vsync ON (Textures Ultra, Shadows Medium, Mesh High, HBAO, 2xMSAA (with this switched off it's almost the same thing, so ...), Motion Blur off and pretty much everything else at high.

My fps drops as hell ... any suggestions?
Edited by fullrespect - 3/27/12 at 5:25am
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Black Mamba
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post #7530 of 38701
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuildBuildBuild View Post

Hello Folks,
I have a feeling my PowerColor HD 7950 PCS+ 3 GB is underperforming.
Is a 3DMark 11 Score of P7187 about par for the course for a Radeon 7950 (with latest drivers) on a non-overclocked i7-3820 / Asus P9X79 Deluxe / 16 GB RAM System or is it underperforming?
Here are the full details of the results: http://i.imgur.com/QKewv.png
Please confirm so that I can determine whether to exchange the card or if I'm good to go with this new build.
Thanks fellow 79xx'ers! smile.gif

I had been advised that my 7950 without Overclocking would play BF3 on ULTRA settings in 1920 x 1080 with a very good frame rate (that's why I bought it). However, I just installed BF3 and noticed two things:

1) The "Auto" video settings recommended by the game show almost everything on "Medium": http://i.imgur.com/c1QGJ.png

2) When I manually select "Ultra", the FPS is not very good and the game is somewhat choppy (e.g. frame rates of around 37 at the beginning of the main Campaign). That's a far cry from this benchmark.

Can someone please explain these 2 points above and how I can improve it? I obviously didn't spend a ton of money on this card to play on "Medium" settings. In fact, I spent a ton of money on it precisely so I could play on Ultra settings without any problem, but it's too choppy to enjoy. My drivers are the latest stable ones.

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.
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