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[SOLVED] still having problems with the airflow on my machine. All temps too high! [SOLVED] - Page 4

Poll Results: what temp does your cpu run at?

This is a multiple choice poll
  • 4% of voters (4)
    <20 C idle
  • 23% of voters (21)
    20-30 idle
  • 13% of voters (12)
    30-40 idle
  • 6% of voters (6)
    >40 idle
  • 0% of voters (0)
    <20 load
  • 1% of voters (1)
    20-30 load
  • 10% of voters (9)
    30-40 load
  • 13% of voters (12)
    40-50 load
  • 13% of voters (12)
    50-60 load
  • 12% of voters (11)
    >60 load
88 Total Votes  
post #31 of 87
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMD4ME View Post

You'll never have laminar airflow thru a PC case with all the obstructions and multiple fans blowing air in different directions.

@justanewguy lol i dnt think this guy has a graphics card with fans tongue.gif
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post #32 of 87
the thing is, even if (and this is in almost every case the fact) the fans are blowing in different directions, it generates a flow.
of course there are some - sometimes smaller or bigger - turbulences cause a rig is not a wind tunnel. but with a little bit of common sense its pretty easy to create a proper airflow which is able to cool your parts.

its obviously easier when your ambient room temperature isnt that hot, because a fan doesnt create cold air, it just moves it (actually it feels cold but it isnt, just physics)
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post #33 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

i rechecked my cpu and its blowing out
check my sig.

APEX AL-D500EXP 500W ATX12V, is it 500w for real?. ITS YOUR PSU IM SURE. Check this:

"It is not a quality unit, does not have active PFC and a low efficiency rating (not 80+certified)!

Passive PFC uses passive elements such as a ferrite core inductor on the input source to create a countering reactance. While easily applied to the existing power circuitry without much modification, the power factor is low (60 - 80%), the AC input must be chosen (115VAC / 230VAC), and the harmonics produced from the difference between the capacitance and the inductance are hard to control. Significant electromagnetic noise can result.

Active PFC uses switching regulator technology with active elements such as IC, FET and diodes, to create a PFC circuit This circuit has a theoretical power factor of over 95%, reduces total harmonics noticeably, and automatically adjusts for AC input voltage. However, it requires a complex EMI filter and an input source circuit, and is more costly to build."

I suggest you buy a decent PSU 80 Plus (Bronze-Gold) Certified for your hardware components sake, check out for it to burn!.

Check this to from: http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/amd-radeon-hd-6000/hd-6950/Pages/amd-radeon-hd-6950-overview.aspx#3

"Suggested AMD Radeon™ HD 6950 System Requirements
PCI Express® based PC is required with one X16 lane graphics slot available on the motherboard
500 Watt or greater power supply with two 75W 6-pin PCI Express® power connectors recommended
Certified power supplies are recommended
. Refer to http://ati.amd.com/certifiedPSU for a list of Certified products
Minimum 1GB of system memory
Installation software requires CD-ROM drive, a keyboard, a mouse, and a display
DVD playback requires DVD drive and a DVD
Blu-ray™ playback requires Blu-ray drive and a Blu-ray disc
For an AMD CrossFireX™ system, a second AMD Radeon™ HD 6900 Series graphics card, an AMD CrossFireX™ Ready motherboard and one AMD CrossFireX™ Bridge Interconnect cable is required
Use of 3 or more displays with AMD Eyefinity technology requires a DisplayPort-capable panel or an AMD Eyefinity validated dongle. See http://www.amd.com/EyefinityDongles for a list of validated DisplayPort dongles."

I also recommend using this tool. It could just an average value on a possible wattage, but it gives your a close result on what are you needing for powering your system.

http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

I already made the calculation as I could read from your system sig here and this is the result: a 517w or more is needed. But the problem is how much real is the wattage of your APEX AL-D500EXP 500W ATX12V lets see what the reviewers have to say about that.

Read this article is about your PSU and they make fun of it!: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=65

"Why yes, Allied apparently thinks we can pull 480W from the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V1 rails, and still have enough left for 216W on 12V2. My past experience with Deer makes me wonder if they aren't overestimating this unit juuuuuust a little."

"The rear fan benefits from a wire grille on this unit, unlike cheaper offerings from L&C which still come with a punched grille. The presence of a voltage switch tells us that this unit either has passive PFC, or lacks it altogether. This power supply actually has two identical 80mm fans, one for intake and one for exhaust. So, it should have no trouble cooling itself when we ask it to put out 500 watts, right? Right? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Let's take a peek at the cabling."

"Some of you are probably wondering if anything cool and unusual came with this power supply. Wonder no more, for the answer is, "nothing." No manual, no power cord. It came out of a cheap computer case. And so, on we go to the load testing. I promise fun times ahead on the next page. Why don't you all go grab a cold one, the next page is going to be fun."

Sorry to say this but your PSU really sucks!!! and it will kill your hardware, dont plug your computer again till you get a decent PSU. I didn't want to be mean, but Im just warning you friend.
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post #34 of 87
cheap psu = death of your rig
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post #35 of 87
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristianUshuaia View Post

APEX AL-D500EXP 500W ATX12V, is it 500w for real?. ITS YOUR PSU IM SURE. Check this:
"It is not a quality unit, does not have active PFC and a low efficiency rating (not 80+certified)!
Passive PFC uses passive elements such as a ferrite core inductor on the input source to create a countering reactance. While easily applied to the existing power circuitry without much modification, the power factor is low (60 - 80%), the AC input must be chosen (115VAC / 230VAC), and the harmonics produced from the difference between the capacitance and the inductance are hard to control. Significant electromagnetic noise can result.
Active PFC uses switching regulator technology with active elements such as IC, FET and diodes, to create a PFC circuit This circuit has a theoretical power factor of over 95%, reduces total harmonics noticeably, and automatically adjusts for AC input voltage. However, it requires a complex EMI filter and an input source circuit, and is more costly to build."
I suggest you buy a decent PSU 80 Plus (Bronze-Gold) Certified for your hardware components sake, check out for it to burn!.
Check this to from: http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/amd-radeon-hd-6000/hd-6950/Pages/amd-radeon-hd-6950-overview.aspx#3
"Suggested AMD Radeon™ HD 6950 System Requirements
PCI Express® based PC is required with one X16 lane graphics slot available on the motherboard
500 Watt or greater power supply with two 75W 6-pin PCI Express® power connectors recommended
Certified power supplies are recommended
. Refer to http://ati.amd.com/certifiedPSU for a list of Certified products
Minimum 1GB of system memory
Installation software requires CD-ROM drive, a keyboard, a mouse, and a display
DVD playback requires DVD drive and a DVD
Blu-ray™ playback requires Blu-ray drive and a Blu-ray disc
For an AMD CrossFireX™ system, a second AMD Radeon™ HD 6900 Series graphics card, an AMD CrossFireX™ Ready motherboard and one AMD CrossFireX™ Bridge Interconnect cable is required
Use of 3 or more displays with AMD Eyefinity technology requires a DisplayPort-capable panel or an AMD Eyefinity validated dongle. See http://www.amd.com/EyefinityDongles for a list of validated DisplayPort dongles."
I also recommend using this tool. It could just an average value on a possible wattage, but it gives your a close result on what are you needing for powering your system.
http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
I already made the calculation as I could read from your system sig here and this is the result: a 517w or more is needed. But the problem is how much real is the wattage of your APEX AL-D500EXP 500W ATX12V lets see what the reviewers have to say about that.
Read this article is about your PSU and they make fun of it!: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=65
"Why yes, Allied apparently thinks we can pull 480W from the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V1 rails, and still have enough left for 216W on 12V2. My past experience with Deer makes me wonder if they aren't overestimating this unit juuuuuust a little."
"The rear fan benefits from a wire grille on this unit, unlike cheaper offerings from L&C which still come with a punched grille. The presence of a voltage switch tells us that this unit either has passive PFC, or lacks it altogether. This power supply actually has two identical 80mm fans, one for intake and one for exhaust. So, it should have no trouble cooling itself when we ask it to put out 500 watts, right? Right? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Let's take a peek at the cabling."
"Some of you are probably wondering if anything cool and unusual came with this power supply. Wonder no more, for the answer is, "nothing." No manual, no power cord. It came out of a cheap computer case. And so, on we go to the load testing. I promise fun times ahead on the next page. Why don't you all go grab a cold one, the next page is going to be fun."
Sorry to say this but your PSU really sucks!!! and it will kill your hardware, dont plug your computer again till you get a decent PSU. I didn't want to be mean, but Im just warning you friend.

you are wrong. look at neweggs ratings. im not crossfiring, my power output is below 400 watts. and, mind you I HAVE NO EXTRA MONEY.
can you not tell by looking at my system?
how in the world can you attribute my bad cpu and case temps to my power supply.
ive been using it for over 4 months.
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post #36 of 87
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

you are wrong. look at neweggs ratings. im not crossfiring, my power output is below 400 watts. and, mind you I HAVE NO EXTRA MONEY.
can you not tell by looking at my system?
how in the world can you attribute my bad cpu and case temps to my power supply.
ive been using it for over 4 months.

under extreme load it says 470.
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post #37 of 87
Well I don't know what to tell you that you won't already know Mr. Physics major. Bottom/Side fans intake, Top/Back fans exhaust is what has always worked best for me and since you don't want to spend any money what are we supposed to suggest? Are you open to ghetto rigging options?
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post #38 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

you are wrong. look at neweggs ratings. im not crossfiring, my power output is below 400 watts. and, mind you I HAVE NO EXTRA MONEY.
can you not tell by looking at my system?
how in the world can you attribute my bad cpu and case temps to my power supply.
ive been using it for over 4 months.

Well as u wish. Sorry for my bad English. Im from Argentina, where my spoken language is Spanish (Castellano), but theres a phrase I usually use here: "Lo barato termina saliendo caro con el tiempo" = "The cheaper, the more expensive as time passes", translate it to English biggrin.gif. It was just my 2 cents. It means that if you buy for cheap, it would be a matter of "short" time till you get negative results on a product. If the problem is a low budget, there are always good bargains from good brands like ANTEC, COOLERMASTER, SEASONIC, ETC to look at. I suggest you with all my patience and love that you start saving to get a low-budget 600w, 650w (so you can have a margin for Overclock if you want) certified 80 plus PSU, and you will see. When the PSU can't give what the system demands, the components start to stress and a thing (sorry maybe you know more about this since you are major on physics right?) correct me if im wrong: the components start to consume more that they demand on a normal system, and they start to "slowly die, burn, fry", the elecrical conductivity get really compromised and temperatures skyrocket!, the system is aging. Ok good the system consumes 470w on load, but your power supply stands for 480w max, Im just telling you that your are overdriving your psu and compromising the whole system because of that. Man I really want to help you.
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post #39 of 87
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghooble View Post

Well I don't know what to tell you that you won't already know Mr. Physics major. Bottom/Side fans intake, Top/Back fans exhaust is what has always worked best for me and since you don't want to spend any money what are we supposed to suggest? Are you open to ghetto rigging options?

....did you even look at my pics?
i have 2 fans taped in.
of course im open to ghetto rigging.
right now my case door is off and my case is on its side.
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post #40 of 87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristianUshuaia View Post

Well as u wish. Sorry for my bad English. Im from Argentina, where my spoken language is Spanish (Castellano), but theres a phrase I usually use here: "Lo barato termina saliendo caro con el tiempo" = "The cheaper, the more expensive as time passes", translate it to English biggrin.gif. It was just my 2 cents. It means that if you buy for cheap, it would be a matter of "short" time till you get negative results on a product. If the problem is a low budget, there are always good bargains from good brands like ANTEC, COOLERMASTER, SEASONIC, ETC to look at. I suggest you with all my patience and love that you start saving to get a low-budget 600w, 650w (so you can have a margin for Overclock if you want) certified 80 plus PSU, and you will see. When the PSU can't give what the system demands, the components start to stress and a thing (sorry maybe you know more about this since you are major on physics right?) correct me if im wrong: the components start to consume more that they demand on a normal system, and they start to "slowly die, burn, fry", the elecrical conductivity get really compromised and temperatures skyrocket!, the system is aging. Ok good the system consumes 470w on load, but your power supply stands for 480w max, Im just telling you that your are overdriving your psu and compromising the whole system because of that. Man I really want to help you.

i understand this.
you could have just said this
but what you said was that my psu couldnt handle crap and would soon die a horrible and damaging death.

i have gotten many warnings on here "that motherboard WILL explode" and 3 weeks later its still working fine. and "if your cpu goes above 55 it will break and take your motherboard with it" and it peaks at 58, working fine.
i appreciate the concern, but i am very careful. i will not let any of my parts stress too much.
Ryzen & Vega
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[Corsair] RM850i w/custom cables [Phanteks] Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass [Razer] Deathadder Elite [Corsair] MM300 Extended 
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Ryzen & Vega
(22 items)
 
Wanted: [Wanted] LGA1155 ITX Motherboard
$75 (USD) or best offer
The Spectre
(28 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
[AMD] Ryzen R7 1700 w/EK Supremacy Evo AMD [MSI] X370 XPower Gaming Titanium [AMD] Vega Flagship GPU [G.Skill] Trident Z RGB 2x8GB @3000MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
500GB M.2 SSD [WD] 2TB Black HDD [NZXT] AER RGB 120 (x7) [NZXT] AER RGB 140 (x1) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
[Barrow] D5 Heatsink/Reservoir/Heatsink [Barrow] White 1/2"x3/4" Compression Fittings [Primochill] Advance LRT Clear 1/2"x3/4" Tubing [Alphacool] NexXxos XT45 360mm 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
[Alphacool] NexXxos Monsta 240mm [Microsoft] Windows 10 Pro x64 [ASUS] MG279 Freesync 1440p IPS [Razer] BlackWidow X Tournament Edition w/Vorte... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
[Corsair] RM850i w/custom cables [Phanteks] Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass [Razer] Deathadder Elite [Corsair] MM300 Extended 
AudioOther
(See audio in signature) [Ikea] Tornliden Desk 
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