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ASUS P7P55D: motherboard LED lights up, PC doesn't start

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
Following http://www.overclock.net/t/1195156/short-circuit-killed-my-psu-need-new-one-1-x-gtx560ti-core-i5-760, I got a new PSU (Silverstone Strider 600W) and installed it. So far so good.

However when trying to turn on the motherboard, it does absolutely nothing. The LED lights up (called 'Standby' on the mobo manual) but the PC doesn't start.

For a quarter of a second, the GPU LED and the CPU + GPU fans turn, but nothing else happens.

Would anyone know what's up...?

Thanks!
post #2 of 15
Make sure that you plugged everything back in (I've done this) and if everything is correct, then try resetting the CMOS.
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A bunch of disks LG DVD Combo Apogee Xt Rev 1.0, 360 Rad + D5 Fedora 25 
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Windows 10 Acer 32" 4k Acer 32" 4k Wacom Cintiq 27 QHD 
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post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
Everything is plugged in and I did re-set all plugs twice: motherboard (both 24 + 4 pins cables), PCI-E x 2 for GPU, SATA power x 2 (ODD + 2 HDDs + 1 SSD) and molex (fan controller).

I also just tried to clear the CMOS but it did nothing (same exact symptoms when plugging back in: LED on, fans spin for a quarter of a second and then nothing).
post #4 of 15
Hmm... I suppose the power supply you got could be dead, this kind of thing happened to my mom's P4 power button would spin the fans for about a second or two then off. I could keep the fans running with the 4 pin plug for the CPU out but that was the rail that had died. That's the only thing I can think of. Short of dead motherboard possibly cpu, but i'm thinking try to see if you can get your hands on another PSU.
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700K 5GHz ~1.475v Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 EVGA GTX-1080 (4x8GB) Crucial Balistix 1600 MHz 
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A bunch of disks LG DVD Combo Apogee Xt Rev 1.0, 360 Rad + D5 Fedora 25 
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Intel 2700K 5GHz ~1.475v Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 EVGA GTX-1080 (4x8GB) Crucial Balistix 1600 MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
A bunch of disks LG DVD Combo Apogee Xt Rev 1.0, 360 Rad + D5 Fedora 25 
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Windows 10 Acer 32" 4k Acer 32" 4k Wacom Cintiq 27 QHD 
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post #5 of 15
Thread Starter 
I did. The one I'm using right now is brand new and I've just installed it after my OCZ died frown.gif

I have a spare core i3 I could use to try the CPU, but it'd involve dis-assembling the CPU heatsink which is a pain... but I guess if I have to, it'll need to be done...
post #6 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pott View Post

I did. The one I'm using right now is brand new and I've just installed it after my OCZ died frown.gif
I have a spare core i3 I could use to try the CPU, but it'd involve dis-assembling the CPU heatsink which is a pain... but I guess if I have to, it'll need to be done...

Thing is I think the motherboard should power up even if the CPU died so that's what is leading me to think your new power supply might be bad too. Otherwise your motherboard was taken out, because a dead GPU should throw a beep code and not finish posting I think.
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Intel 2700K 5GHz ~1.475v Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 EVGA GTX-1080 (4x8GB) Crucial Balistix 1600 MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
A bunch of disks LG DVD Combo Apogee Xt Rev 1.0, 360 Rad + D5 Fedora 25 
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Windows 10 Acer 32" 4k Acer 32" 4k Wacom Cintiq 27 QHD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Ducky Corsair AX850 Coolermaster HAF-X Corsair 
Audio
Xonar DG 
CPUGraphics
Intel i7-4558U Intel Iris 
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i7 720QM Proprietary GTX 260M 4 gb DDR3 1066 
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500 GB WD Caviar Black 
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post #7 of 15
Thread Starter 
I just tested the PSU by shorting it and it works just fine... :/

There's no POST at all. The sequence doesn't even start. Just lights up for a quarter of a second and then nothing.
post #8 of 15
Forgot to ask if you've tried the ram, if it seems okay then you can try what is below.

Two things: the old power supply may have taken out your motherboard when it died, or the new power supply could still be bad, because shorting out a bad one I had it would still start. Try testing the 12, 3.3 and 5 volt lines going to your 24 pin connector with a multimeter with the thing turned on. Since it won't be under load it is not a completely accurate measurement, but as long as it's close. For 12 volt put the positive connector in the yellow wire and the negative in the black to ground, the 3.3 volt wire is the orange one, and the 5 volt is the red wire. If the voltage readings are way out of whack then your motherboard is probably toast.
MCP
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Loki
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Rinzler
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700K 5GHz ~1.475v Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 EVGA GTX-1080 (4x8GB) Crucial Balistix 1600 MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
A bunch of disks LG DVD Combo Apogee Xt Rev 1.0, 360 Rad + D5 Fedora 25 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Windows 10 Acer 32" 4k Acer 32" 4k Wacom Cintiq 27 QHD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Ducky Corsair AX850 Coolermaster HAF-X Corsair 
Audio
Xonar DG 
CPUGraphics
Intel i7-4558U Intel Iris 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 720QM Proprietary GTX 260M 4 gb DDR3 1066 
Hard Drive
500 GB WD Caviar Black 
  hide details  
Reply
MCP
(17 items)
 
Loki
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Rinzler
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700K 5GHz ~1.475v Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 EVGA GTX-1080 (4x8GB) Crucial Balistix 1600 MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
A bunch of disks LG DVD Combo Apogee Xt Rev 1.0, 360 Rad + D5 Fedora 25 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Windows 10 Acer 32" 4k Acer 32" 4k Wacom Cintiq 27 QHD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Ducky Corsair AX850 Coolermaster HAF-X Corsair 
Audio
Xonar DG 
CPUGraphics
Intel i7-4558U Intel Iris 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 720QM Proprietary GTX 260M 4 gb DDR3 1066 
Hard Drive
500 GB WD Caviar Black 
  hide details  
Reply
post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 
Mhmm that gave me absolutely nothing but it could be my multimeter. I can't test since I have but 1 working PSU and 1 multimeter. For now I'll assume it's working since it's new, the shorting test worked and it is affecting something which my friend PSU wasn't.

I just tried two things:

1) instead of just using the 4 pins CPU power connector, I took out the bit of plastic that was hiding the other 4 and connected the 8 pins connector to it. This did nothing more/less.
2) I took out the graphics card as well, did nothing of course

Only thing remaining is the CPU I guess... I'll try my old core i3 in it and if it doesn't work, then I know it's the motherboard.

Man after the christmas I've just had, my wallet will HATE me if I need a new processor + motherboard... :| I really wanted to wait for Ivy bridge too since I have absolutely no need to upgrade every generations (got a i5-760 which is more than enough for my needs).
post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 
Tried it with my working core i3. Nothing.

So I'm guessing it's the motherboard... but the LED lights up. Really unsure...
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