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MCP35X won't pump

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
hey guys, can you help me out? i'm trying to leak test my new build but the pump won't pump and for the life of me i don't know why.

PSU is ok with the paperclip trick. pump molex is plugged in.

when i turn on the PSU, i can hear these ticks from the pump, like 5 of them, then a pause, then it repeats. but the coolant (PC Ice Clear) just won't move.

any ideas? i'm at the end of my wits here.

the pump is attached on the back of my bay res, and is supposed to pump upwards to the cpu.

thanks!
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post #2 of 23
Have you replaced the top ? sounds like the impellar is hitting the sides of the top, and can't rotate.

also, how is the pump mounted ? just to make sure, the pump is not designet to pump strangth downwards. atleast the old DDC3.1 and 3.2 was not
post #3 of 23
The pump already has liquid running to it? If the pump is primed then It should have no problem.

Only thing I can think of is something got stuck in the pump, or pump is dead.
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post #4 of 23
I've seen a couple pumps just not want to spin...then I opened them up and put them back together and then they were fine...I have one (in fact I believe it is a MCP35) that did this and it still working well over a year later. Cools my media machine so it sees a lot of use as some time I fall asleep while playing an old console game on a emulator or watching a movie. The thing is nearly always on.

The other one was for another person's build, but as far as know it works too.
Edited by Vagrant Storm - 1/11/12 at 5:56am
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post #5 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxy_VI View Post

Have you replaced the top ? sounds like the impellar is hitting the sides of the top, and can't rotate.
also, how is the pump mounted ? just to make sure, the pump is not designet to pump strangth downwards. atleast the old DDC3.1 and 3.2 was not

um, yeah, i believe so. it came pre-installed to my bay res, so i haven't mess with it much except to rotate it so that it's mounted to pump upward instead of to the side.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14200/ex-res-309/FrozenQ_Liquid_Fusion_Dual_Bay_Reservoir_w_Swiftech_MCP35x_Series_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c97s1110#blank



and the res is filled with water.

ok, i've taken it apart. everything looks fine in there. going to put it back together now and try again.

no joy. problem remains unchanged.

any other ideas?
Edited by nicodemus - 1/11/12 at 7:05am
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post #6 of 23
Thread Starter 
normally i hate to do this, but i'm desperate here.

anything? anyone. D= this is so sad, i've come so far and this pump just ticks and does nothing and i have no idea what to do about it. i'm soooo close.

i've tried moving the case around to remove air bubbles, and got a few glubs, but nothing changed. =/
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post #7 of 23
I have had the same problem, leave the pump unplunged for 24hrs the turn it on and leave it till it starts. Mine has done it twice and it still running fine now.
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post #8 of 23
You describe a "tick" sound. I've never heard of a DDC making that type of sound. When a DDC fails or is starting to fail, it's usually sounds like a normal pump would sound, but in a off/on pattern (usually an attempt of a spin, fail, attempt of a spin, fail, etc.).

When a DDC is totally burnt out, there won't be a sound at all. Hopefully the tick you are hearing isn't the PCB burning up.

Typically, if the reservoir/pump isn't bled completely, you'll hear the pump cavitating, but that isn't a tick sound (more of a scratchy sound).

Power the pump briefly without a top, to make sure the impeller is spinning at all (if it does, it's either not bled properly and the pump is cavitating, or the res/top is messing with the impeller). Note that you shouldn't have the pump powered dry for more than 10-20 seconds.

Check the part of the impeller where it sits on the rod. That part can be easily damaged. When this part is damaged, weird sounds can be heard.
post #9 of 23
Would it be possible that you have same problem that I once had with MCP35X, fitting like this works :

400

but this one doesn't because thread is so long that it hits the impeller :

400
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post #10 of 23
Wow, there really needs to be a G1/4 threading depth standard. The longer one should be unacceptable in the market. That looks like it could go all the way through a video card water block
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