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8120 cpu temp question

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
So I just finished a new build and the cpu temps seem high to me. In bios it shows the idle temp at 47-50C. The cpu is at stock settings. With cpuid it lists the temps of the cores from 19-22C at idle. That is a pretty big difference. I am not sure which temp to go by. I want to over clock but my understanding is if I am at 50C at idle I can't over clock with out being throttled back heck I might get throttled back just using normal apps if I am at 50C idle.
So for the parts on the build
AMD 8120
MSI 990FXA-GD65 AMD 990FX Socket AM3+
Patriot 8GB Divison 2 DDR3 1333MHz CL9
Coolmax 950W 3 Way SLI Certified Modular
MSI GTX560 TI twin frozr 2
Corsair Hydro H60 CPU Liquid Cooler
Coolermaster HAF 932 case.
3 240mm fans 2 intake 1 exhaust
1 120MM fan that came with the H60.

My friend and I tried removing and reapplying the H60 several times and to make sure it sits correctly and every time the temps are still the same. We removed the H60 and put on the stock cooler and the temps jumped about 8-10C higher so I know the H60 is doing something. It just seems that the idle temps are really high if the bios is giving me the correct temp. Cpuid says the temp on the cores have a low of 17C and a high of 24C with the average real time ranging between 19-21C. I am using Artic silver thermal paste in place of the stock junk that comes pre installed. These temps are driving me nuts 50C can't be the real idle temp can it? I've read that the CPU will start to throttle back at 61C so that gives me no room to play with. If it matters the temp in the room at the time was about 20-23C.
Looking online I am seeing others running much cooler then I am with the 8120. Any help is much appreciated.
post #2 of 11
Yea, with the stock cooler, my 6100 idles at 13C per CoreTemp, somethings wrong.
My System
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5000+ BE 3.4G @1.447v DFI 790FX-M2RS Sapphire 3850 8G Corsair XMS2 DHX 
Hard DriveOSPower
Seagate Win7 Ultimate 64bit Antec TPQ-850 
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5000+ BE 3.4G @1.447v DFI 790FX-M2RS Sapphire 3850 8G Corsair XMS2 DHX 
Hard DriveOSPower
Seagate Win7 Ultimate 64bit Antec TPQ-850 
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post #3 of 11
you should try using Realtemp not CPUid


The "Stock junk" on the H60 is not junk at all it's on par with one of the best pastes on the market.

and is the bios of your mobo updated?
Small wonder.
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Small wonder.
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RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
G.skill Aegis Samsung Evo 120gb Toshiba X300 Koolance 380i w/ Various WC goodness! 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows10 pro LG 34uc88-p Dell P2411H Varmilo  
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Corsair AX750 Phanteks ENTHOO EVOLV ITX Logitech G502 <3 X-Trac Ripper XXL <3 
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post #4 of 11
The Temp your reading is the socket temp.

Put one of the 240mm to Exhaust.

2 x Exhaust and 1 x Intake

Also make sure your H60 is set as intake. Make sure the Radiator position is that the tubes are at the bottom, Also adding a second fan to it will lower the temp another 4c

I myself use a Antec Kuhler 620, I added the second fan and set it up as intake.

Ambient temp: 25c

CPU temp (BIOS temp/socket temp) = 35c idle / 52c full load

Core(s) : Idle 15c / 36c full load (the core(s) temp in HWmonitor doesnt get accurate until about 30c)


My case: Antec Three Hundred 1 x 140mm 1600RPM Exhaust - 1 x 120mm 1600RPM Intake


FYI: If you run stock like me at 3100mhz with no turbo and no power saving in BIOS, You can manually set your CPU Vcore to .05 less then the VID of the CPU, My VID is 1.375 I manually set the Vcore in BIOS too 1.325, LLC Regular on CPU and CPU/NB, This will drop the temps another 2c
Edited by garikfox - 1/11/12 at 7:26pm
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Dreamland
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post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
My bios and drivers are all up to date. I had the H60 fan set as exhaust but changed it to intake and it lowered the temp 1c. The lines on the H60 are on the bottom.
This is the case I am using and its lay out
intake
453
exhaust
373
intake
442
So as it is now the top fan is my exhaust. Should I set the front fan to exhaust also and have only the side fan and H60 fan set to intake?

Then I have the H60 as an intake. A good 60% or more of the case is mesh for breath ability. How tight should the H60 be on the cpu. I've got it down fairly tight I don't want to damage the motherboard by making it to tight. I didn't know the thermal paste on the H60 was top shelf stuff. i replaced it with artic silver.
I am running stock setting no overclocking. I don't want to start over clocking until I figure out the temp issues. I got the H60 to keep the temps down so I can over clock and its seeming like I'll need the H60 just to keep close to being in check with stock settings.
Talking with a friend he said "The CPU cannot enter low-power idle mode (Phase and or Core Control) while in the BIOS. That only works when fully booted into Windows" is that true and would that account for the high idle temp while in bios. The cpuid temp seems about where I expected 17-21C while in windows. I'll download real temp and see what it says.
post #6 of 11
How much paste are you using? You only need a paper thin coating to fill in the minor cracks, not have a bed of it acting as a cushion.
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(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5000+ BE 3.4G @1.447v DFI 790FX-M2RS Sapphire 3850 8G Corsair XMS2 DHX 
Hard DriveOSPower
Seagate Win7 Ultimate 64bit Antec TPQ-850 
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My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5000+ BE 3.4G @1.447v DFI 790FX-M2RS Sapphire 3850 8G Corsair XMS2 DHX 
Hard DriveOSPower
Seagate Win7 Ultimate 64bit Antec TPQ-850 
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post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
I don't know if there is some sort of break in period or not but after installing some programs and setting up the PC I rebooted it and went into bios to see bios saying the temp is now 34C. Not sure what changed but it looks to be running how it should now.
post #8 of 11
g.gif I didn't know the thermal paste on the H60 was top shelf stuff. i replaced it with artic silver.
post #9 of 11
Haven't played with a H60 but on the H80 the stock stuff isnt very good.
They may of stuck good quality stuff on but you have to remember these units sit of the shelf's for awhile and the thermal compound degrades over time, especially when it isn't air tight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aszrael1266 View Post

I don't know if there is some sort of break in period or not but after installing some programs and setting up the PC I rebooted it and went into bios to see bios saying the temp is now 34C. Not sure what changed but it looks to be running how it should now.

The units shouldn't have a break in period but there performance will go up slightly over time as any air bubbles work there way to the highest point in the loop. Thermal compound can also take a few mins to settle in once it gets warmed up and turns into more of a liquid so it can fill all the gaps. Some brands even recommend burning it in. (running stress test program for few hours then turn PC off and let it cool down fully)
post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by aszrael1266 View Post

I don't know if there is some sort of break in period or not but after installing some programs and setting up the PC I rebooted it and went into bios to see bios saying the temp is now 34C. Not sure what changed but it looks to be running how it should now.

So you didnt have an OS this whole time? No wonder.
My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5000+ BE 3.4G @1.447v DFI 790FX-M2RS Sapphire 3850 8G Corsair XMS2 DHX 
Hard DriveOSPower
Seagate Win7 Ultimate 64bit Antec TPQ-850 
  hide details  
Reply
My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5000+ BE 3.4G @1.447v DFI 790FX-M2RS Sapphire 3850 8G Corsair XMS2 DHX 
Hard DriveOSPower
Seagate Win7 Ultimate 64bit Antec TPQ-850 
  hide details  
Reply
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