Plasticizer Problems / Discussion / Gallery - Page 103

I own 2001, 2375 and 2475. They are definitely only "translucent" when compared to plasticized tubes like B-44-4X.

FWIW, B-44-4X with Swiftec Hydrx and distilled has been clear for about 4 months for me. Minus some slight yellow staining due to the UV Green dye they use (expected).

I recently installed some new tubing to connect an external radiator I had. You could tell the old tubing had plasticized because it was much harder than the new tubing. The fact that the tubing hadn't turned opaque makes me believe that people with the crazy residue have some kind of chemical reaction going on.

I have nickel, copper, and silver in my loop.
Edited by AzN1337c0d3r - 7/10/12 at 8:22pm

Interesting about the 2375 thought it would be clear.

But I never had plasticizer leach with b-44-4x or b-44-3x either, and used both for over a year. Just some slight yellowing over a year, even without running dye. Even a rep from St gobain (tygon) tubing said would get less plasticizer leach from beverage tubing. In past years when discussing, someone had stated that inner bore was coated to reduce plasticizer leach, since it was to be used with milk and other beverages/drinking, but that info came second hand.

It isnt a chemical reaction, just you are using tubing that typically doesnt leach. Perhaps just like Duralene, that also has plasticizer, but apparently tends not to leach.

post 948, first pic is my build with tygon 3603 that had severe plasticizer leach and tygon 3603 is the king of leaking plasticizer, you can replace your tubing with that and you will see white precipitate on walls,...second pic is when I replaced tubing with bev tubing b-44-3x and no leach at all, even using same coolant additive, only added a blue dye.

Durelene installed

That looks a little blue on my tablet. Is there a little dye in that?

Was about to order some duralene from sidewinders, but unfortunately its $47 is the cheapest shipping they have to Australia. Until i can get a group buy going with a few of my friends i will be using my Primoflex LRT tubing, its kind of cloudy at the moment, but im not sure if thats primochill dye bomb being rubbish or what. i got some new fittings and blocks coming in for my build soon, so when they arive and i dismantle the current build, il post back with 2 month old Primoflex LRT tubbing.

the blue you see is the light reflection

if you have this crap primochill dye bomb in your loop remove it it can crystilizer inside the blocks so bad and only run Distilled water and try to find some friend to get the Durelene with ya. and if you want use any DYW use MayHems. This is the only trusted DYE in the market.
Edited by skyn3t - 7/11/12 at 9:56pm

I'm really interested in Tygon E-1000. It is supposedly plasticizer free, has a low Shore durometer rating (40A!). If it is as clear as B-44-4X it may be my next purchase (even if it is 5x as expensive as what I'm paying for B-44-4X).

Anyone have experience with it?

Plasticizer Problems Update.

As you guys know I'm running Durelene PVC tubing 7/16in. ID 5/8in. OD by Saint-Gobain + Distilled Water + Silver Kill Coilfor 3 weeks and 6 days ( 27 Days ) and it looks the same since Day One. not signs of Plasticize or Cloud including the Reservoir i have been running my 3570K 4.5Mhz and my GTX 670 FTW @ 1200MHz 24/7. Heat is not the issue as far as i know in my recent test's. I know i had doe some Plasticizer testing with Tygon R-3603 and Durelene in Glass Container but some how all those test when very different in what I have now both my System are running Durelene Tubing the Plasticizer Test Bench had MayHems Red Dye and still the same no Plasticizer or Cloud whatsoever. I'm very happy with my result test's.

Just to you guys know this time i have a more high quality photos compared with my last result so the pictures is much more clear look and don't pay attention in some light reflection in tubes it make it looks Blue o even a Bit Cloud But it's NOT. When water inside the tubing and some bends it's Magnify the letter's, you guys know what I'm talk about.












This is the DIY Water Cooler Flush System ( not my invention but it is WestCoastMods By LazyMan Invention.

Parts List

One - AgroMax 250 GPH SUBMERSIBLE WATER PUMP
Two - Rubber grommets 3/4 ( Had it in my tool Box don't remember when i got those ) US $17.95 + shipping = $22.44






Durelene PVC tubing 7/16in. ID 5/8in. OD by Saint-Gobain Couple feet.
Two - Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black 1/2in. ID Barb - BP-MBWP-C01 I Always have some extra fitting's ( Everyone must have ) $2.99 each
GE Opaq Whole House System
$18.97.








Ain't Pay $41.98 just for GE Clear Whole House System. and Shut off Valve.
Two - GE Spun Fiber, Replace Filter 2-Pack $9.97 /EA-Each
One - Leaktite 2-Gal. Bucket with $3.58 Lid $1.98

Total= $62.92

With this System you can FLUSH all your loop quick and easy.

Edited by skyn3t - 7/24/12 at 11:51pm

Installed my Durelene today. Tomorrow I'll post pics of my old dreamflex tubing, the stuff looks like hell, white film coating everything inside, so I flushed my rads and blocks and put the Durelene in. Hopefully I see the same results as skyn3t

Just to let you all know, I contacted Primochill about my tubing. They got back to me and said in there testing it's not the tubing but another component in the loop causing the issue. They are working on a solution to the problem and have an additive they are sending me to add to my loop to see if it clears the tubing up. Once I get the additive I will report back here and let you all know how it goes as well as email them back to provide input on there additive.