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post #1181 of 3087
yeah i know im considering mayhems since im totally done with primochill concentrated dye bombs(actually considering not waiting to tear down my loop)
its either mayhems or sleeving my tubes weirdsmiley.gif
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post #1182 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by raw0ats View Post

So i read through about 30 pages of this thread and decided to skip to the last but has anyone tried to set up some type of filter in their loop to see if this gunk can be collected?
EDIT: also has anyone tried the xspc tubing that frozenpc is offering as well??

I have actually used a gas line filter in my loop (3/8" ID tubing) Worked OK, but wickedly restrictive.
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post #1183 of 3087
i use a koolance mesh filter and soo far all ive caught i solitary cat hair and a tiny piece of kill coil
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post #1184 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by WebsterXC View Post

I don't know if anyone has posted this yet, but FrozenCPU now ofters plasticizer FREE tubing. It's Tygon E-1000 formula. Not to shabby if I do say so myself. I don't run it in a rig, but I've played with it last time I visited the storefront. Unfortunately it's only in 1/2 x 3/4 for all you 3/8" ID people. It's also expensive as crap...
Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16794/ex-tub-1368/Tygon_E-1000_12_ID_34_OD_-_Plasticizer_Free_Flexible_Tubing_ADK00038.html

Elaborate for me, I'm new to fittings. Is 3/8" ID a desired size, and why, or it an oddball size, for example, will the Tygon 1/2 x 3/4 work with normal fittings, say Swiftech? Is 1/2 x 3/4 more common?
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/8/12 at 5:31pm
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post #1185 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo Zuko View Post

Elaborate for me, I'm new to fittings. Is 3/8" ID a desired size, and why, or it an oddball size, for example, will the Tygon 1/2 x 3/4 work with normal fittings, say Swiftech? Is 1/2 x 3/4 more common?

Tests by Martin and, way back when, Cathar, show that the difference in performance between 3/8 ID and 1/2 ID is minimal. Some like the 3/8 (like me) for the way it looks. I happen to think that 1/2 ID tubing looks clunky. The smaller tubing should also be cheaper. So, only one size being available reduces options, and costs more.
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post #1186 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcusk View Post

You could run Mayhems Pastel Gigabyre Orange, that would look great. There's practically no tubing that's actually orange either, most marketed as orange are often red or pink.

Not true, XSPC "Red" tubing is marketed as red but is a legit orange.
post #1187 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcusk View Post

You could run Mayhems Pastel Gigabyre Orange, that would look great. There's practically no tubing that's actually orange either, most marketed as orange are often red or pink.

Not true, XSPC "Red" tubing is marketed as red but is a legit orange.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo Zuko View Post

Elaborate for me, I'm new to fittings. Is 3/8" ID a desired size, and why, or it an oddball size, for example, will the Tygon 1/2 x 3/4 work with normal fittings, say Swiftech? Is 1/2 x 3/4 more common?

Apparently the current "debate" in some corners of the watercooling world is that temperatures are better with higher velocity (3/8ID). Some are firm believers that more volume is better instead (1/2ID).

Because a pump puts out the same flow rate of water (in a perfect world where there are no restrictions rolleyes.gif), 3/8ID tubing will increase the flow rate throughout the whole system because:

Av=Av where V is the velocity of water and A is the cross sectional area of the tubing (derrived from Bernoulli's equation). This equation puts velocity and cross sectional area in a diverse relationship; as velocity increases, it requires the cross sectional area (inner diameter) of the tubing to get smaller to maintain the same flow rate. There is a lot of other pressure stuff I could explain, but that's just the quick synopsis for you.

Other people think that more volume of water leads to lower temperatures because more water=more available heat transfer substance (sorry, don't know the equation for this one tongue.gif).

EDIT: Sorry for double post, I thought I was editing my first one. If someone would be so kind as to delete that, would be much appreciated =)
post #1188 of 3087
Well with my MCP35X2 I guess this tubing size thing means even less to me.
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/8/12 at 8:32pm
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post #1189 of 3087
i just saw something when i was looking at the chemical compatibility chart for acrylic, http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/acrylite_chem_resist.pdf
it show pvc with plasticizers to be incompatible, it seems like it can do more than just gunk up your block, but ruin your acrylic res as well

haha
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post #1190 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by somebadlemonade View Post

i just saw something when i was looking at the chemical compatibility chart for acrylic, http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/acrylite_chem_resist.pdf
it show pvc with plasticizers to be incompatible, it seems like it can do more than just gunk up your block, but ruin your acrylic res as well
haha

My Swiftech micro res 2 is still crystal clear and no damage even after my Primochill pro lrt tubing clouded so bad I couldn't see through it.
I'm also happy to say that after running the sys scrubber through the system and flushing, the tubing is still clear and hasn't clouded back up. thumb.gif
Just wish we knew what was in the stuff.
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