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post #1671 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by EK_tiborrr View Post

Yes, I know how to work copper tubing as you can see from the pic below:
19680_104191496270570_4287726_n.jpg
But I don't think that's for everyone, especially beginners. redface.gif


Liking the condenser coils Niko.

Working copper tube is not hard,ok you might have a bit of waste in the beginning,but its not like learning Esperanto.
At the rate some guys are changing their tube,its probably cheaper too.
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post #1672 of 3087
This is auto-cascading condenser with phase separators to be precise. smile.gif

Indeed, copper tubes for experienced users and Tygon Norprene R6012 for everyone else! thumb.gif
    
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post #1673 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by EK_tiborrr View Post

This is auto-cascading condenser with phase separators to be precise. smile.gif

Indeed, copper tubes for experienced users and Tygon Norprene R6012 for everyone else! thumb.gif

Well since Norpene is black( a nice looking tube at that) I would have to go with Copper tubing. Good thing I'm pretty handy with a tubing bender. thumb.gif

For me it's the price per foot that is the killer tho. Still if nobody can get this plasticizer issue figgered out by the time I go to change tubing I'll probably go this direction. I love the look of copper tubing. I'll have to strip the information off the tubing and treat it to keep it looking shiny but NevRDull should work just fine for that. I figure anything that can eat away barnacles of Boat props should work well enough. biggrin.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #1674 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I figure anything that can eat away barnacles of Boat props should work well enough. biggrin.gif

I once knew this girl who could... nevermind... but I know there's a joke in there somewhere. biggrin.gif
post #1675 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

I might have been lucky then because the liquid was pristine. I sold off all my stuff back then and I didn't see anything resembling yours. Might be that yours was excessive thinking.gif
I'll check mine in a month to see how it does wink.gif
hopefully you don't have this trouble if tubes are not in a bad shape. I am just still worried about my RX240 radiator that was used with this cpu block and primochill (and X2O dual bay res pump I sold at time of upgrade to current setup) ... just hoping the inside of my external rad don't look same bad - did flush it with liquid soap, vinegar and lots of hot tap and cold distiller water ... but perhaps I should have flushed it with boiling vinegar & lemon juice/acid mixture ... will never know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I'll check my blocks when I replace the rest of my fittings. I'm not sure how dirty it is inside my Supreme HF because it's still quite shiny inside when you shine a light over it but the place that I'm worried about plasticizer build up is in the FC block since it's before the CPU. The small bit of tubing connecting them shouldn't leach enough to impact the CPU block that badly. It's the run from the Pumps to the FC Block that has me worried no matter how smooth it is inside the block. Too many places for it to latch onto. Specifically the access plate. I'm hoping that I won't have to remove my block from the Motherboard cause it's such a pain in the azz, as my cutout isn't large enough to do so without pulling the board completely. Might be a good idea to consider modding in an access opening for those points on my Mainboard Tray. thinking.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
yup, I'd check on block if primochill's tubing went bad around such components. I haven't checked on GPU Razor 670 block though, it was used for only 1-2 weeks with primochil's tubing and that was after scrubbing and cleaning and flushing of other rads/block and pump+res upgrade. then I swapped tubing to Feser. hopefully I am good to go now and no more trouble down the road.

I modded my case with a dremel to make MB tray cutouts for CPU backplate access (had none before) and cable management cut outs, makes the life so much easier when the time comes! thumb.gif
post #1676 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by feniks View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

I might have been lucky then because the liquid was pristine. I sold off all my stuff back then and I didn't see anything resembling yours. Might be that yours was excessive thinking.gif
I'll check mine in a month to see how it does wink.gif
hopefully you don't have this trouble if tubes are not in a bad shape. I am just still worried about my RX240 radiator that was used with this cpu block and primochill (and X2O dual bay res pump I sold at time of upgrade to current setup) ... just hoping the inside of my external rad don't look same bad - did flush it with liquid soap, vinegar and lots of hot tap and cold distiller water ... but perhaps I should have flushed it with boiling vinegar & lemon juice/acid mixture ... will never know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I'll check my blocks when I replace the rest of my fittings. I'm not sure how dirty it is inside my Supreme HF because it's still quite shiny inside when you shine a light over it but the place that I'm worried about plasticizer build up is in the FC block since it's before the CPU. The small bit of tubing connecting them shouldn't leach enough to impact the CPU block that badly. It's the run from the Pumps to the FC Block that has me worried no matter how smooth it is inside the block. Too many places for it to latch onto. Specifically the access plate. I'm hoping that I won't have to remove my block from the Motherboard cause it's such a pain in the azz, as my cutout isn't large enough to do so without pulling the board completely. Might be a good idea to consider modding in an access opening for those points on my Mainboard Tray. thinking.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
yup, I'd check on block if primochill's tubing went bad around such components. I haven't checked on GPU Razor 670 block though, it was used for only 1-2 weeks with primochil's tubing and that was after scrubbing and cleaning and flushing of other rads/block and pump+res upgrade. then I swapped tubing to Feser. hopefully I am good to go now and no more trouble down the road.

I modded my case with a dremel to make MB tray cutouts for CPU backplate access (had none before) and cable management cut outs, makes the life so much easier when the time comes! thumb.gif

Yeah the 932 has an access port that allows me to get at the top and bottom points of the MOSFET mount an the top of the CPU back plate but since I have the EZ Mount kit I don't have to access that. Looks like I have some more Dremeling to do though. I've got my frog tape stuck to the places in the doors that need to be carved badly, but since I don't have my clear plexi for the bigger opening I have planned I'm not carving anything and trashing my doors. biggrin.gif

But yeah I was looking at the MB Tray last night and see where I can make a couple holes and not lose my center standoff mounting point. I probably should remove that stand off while there is nothing grounding that point to the board but it shouldn't hurt anything being there. I didn't stop to consider that the block would impede the use of that MB screw until after I got all the other points secured and I was like ... "Oh drat. mellowsmiley.gif ", so I'll probably deal with that too if I have to remove the block to check it thoroughly. At least the access plate is the first point of contact so if it has plasticizer in it, hopefully it's limited to the coarser metal of the access plate. thinking.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #1677 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Yeah the 932 has an access port that allows me to get at the top and bottom points of the MOSFET mount an the top of the CPU back plate but since I have the EZ Mount kit I don't have to access that. Looks like I have some more Dremeling to do though. I've got my frog tape stuck to the places in the doors that need to be carved badly, but since I don't have my clear plexi for the bigger opening I have planned I'm not carving anything and trashing my doors. biggrin.gif
But yeah I was looking at the MB Tray last night and see where I can make a couple holes and not lose my center standoff mounting point. I probably should remove that stand off while there is nothing grounding that point to the board but it shouldn't hurt anything being there. I didn't stop to consider that the block would impede the use of that MB screw until after I got all the other points secured and I was like ... "Oh drat. mellowsmiley.gif ", so I'll probably deal with that too if I have to remove the block to check it thoroughly. At least the access plate is the first point of contact so if it has plasticizer in it, hopefully it's limited to the coarser metal of the access plate. thinking.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

yeah, take your time with it, don't rush any standoffs cutting that you could regret later. I just made a big cut out for CPU backplate (pretty universal should fit all boards except x58) with round corners, very happy with it, using it quite often when removing my cooling block and/or CPU smile.gif
I don't have any MB blocks (MOSFETS or chipset are not watercooled in my setup).

anyways, good luck with a little dremeling! It's fun to do actually biggrin.gifthumb.gif
post #1678 of 3087
Month two of using Durelene - still crystal clear.

I put a few drops of system scrubber into the loop alongside with a silver coil this time just for good measure.
post #1679 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agenesis View Post

Month two of using Durelene - still crystal clear.

I put a few drops of system scrubber into the loop alongside with a silver coil this time just for good measure.

I'm pretty sure that system scrubber isn't for 24/7 use, just for cleaning.
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post #1680 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

I'm pretty sure that system scrubber isn't for 24/7 use, just for cleaning.
yup, Primo says it should be used up to 4 days only.
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