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post #1731 of 3087
The more chemicals & additives etc that are used, the more variables are added into the equation, and what happens is that one loses sight of the target so to speak.

If you go through this thread and make a list of the various combinations of additives etc that have been used, we would have a quite a long list

-add to that the other variables such a type of tubing/tubing batch/contamination of loop when being built/varying types of coolants/anti freeze/ambient temps/quality of Distilled water/quality of SKC etc etc ad nauseum biggrin.gif

The one stable variant is the tubing-and that should be of a certain manufacturing standard which enables us to use it without problems-it seems that the best one can hope for at the moment is tubing that may cloud to an extent, but that should not be mixed up with plastisizer deposits found within certain types of tubing which is a completely different story.

Imho-anti freeze(glycol etc) and the myriad of additives do not help the problem at hand-less is better.

Flushing the rig often(every two months) until we get better tubing prevents most problems-but the holy grail that is crystal clear tubing may still be a way off.

There will always be exceptions to the general rule-hence even some primochill users not having problems, BUT, one has to collate the info and look at the averages, and right now the results are quite conclusive wink.gif
post #1732 of 3087
If you want to know what's in what, look at its MSDS. It tells you most if not all the chemicals.

For example, Swiftech HydrX is simply a rebranded Valvoline Zerex (automotive coolant). Also there aren't that many chemicals in the corrosion inhibitor as you would think. You only need corrosion inhibitor(s), pH buffer, a dye, and surfactant (in some). Since it doesn't have antifreeze/antiboil property, there's no Glycol.

And, automotive coolant (antifreeze) is not the same with automotive corrosion inhibitor. Most coolants have anti corrosion property, while corrosion inhibitor doesn't contain Glycol (no antifreeze/antiboil property).

For people who forgot all about chemistry (me included), here's a nice read regarding coolant (2 part article). Link biggrin.gif
post #1733 of 3087
most of older forumulas of coolants include copper/brass corrosion inhibitors, including (not limited to) Asian cars formula of Zerex (green color) and Toyota Long Life Coolant Concentrate (needs to be diluted to 50/50 with distilled water) which is cherry red color (NOT same as pre-diluted pink colored Super Long Life Coolant which doesn't carry copper corrosion inhibitors).

either way, those coolants are toxic and potentially deadly to household animals like cats/dogs that WILL get attracted to it due to sweet smell if you spill it. be careful.

just my 2 cents.
post #1734 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by feniks View Post

most of older forumulas of coolants include copper/brass corrosion inhibitors, including (not limited to) Asian cars formula of Zerex (green color) and Toyota Long Life Coolant Concentrate (needs to be diluted to 50/50 with distilled water) which is cherry red color (NOT same as pre-diluted pink colored Super Long Life Coolant which doesn't carry copper corrosion inhibitors).
either way, those coolants are toxic and potentially deadly to household animals like cats/dogs that WILL get attracted to it due to sweet smell if you spill it. be careful.
just my 2 cents.

Didn't think about the toxicity, because mine is non-toxic, non-gylcol based. However even with gylcol, it doesn't necessary mean that it is toxic. It depends on what diol is in it. The most common: ethylene glycol, is toxic to people and animals. But, propylene glycol on the other hand is completely safe. Look at your shampoo, facial wash, or even canned food, I'm sure you'll find it in the third if not the first item you picked up. smile.gif

You're right. thumb.gif That's why I don't use automotive/engine coolant. A lot of premixed W/C coolants (e.g. XSPC EC6) contain ethylene glycol though. So, necessary steps should be taken when using them.
post #1735 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTCB View Post

Didn't think about the toxicity, because mine is non-toxic, non-gylcol based. However even with gylcol, it doesn't necessary mean that it is toxic. It depends on what diol is in it. The most common: ethylene glycol, is toxic to people and animals. But, propylene glycol on the other hand is completely safe. Look at your shampoo, facial wash, or even canned food, I'm sure you'll find it in the third if not the first item you picked up. smile.gif
You're right. thumb.gif That's why I don't use automotive/engine coolant. A lot of premixed W/C coolants (e.g. XSPC EC6) contain ethylene glycol though. So, necessary steps should be taken when using them.

yeah, I wouldn't bother with engine coolant for WC'ing ... really, what for .. we don't need anti-freeze (good down to like -40F depending on mixture) and surely we do not need the super high thermal threshold at like 220F of coolant temperature... again what for LOL! smile.gif

plain distilled with silver kill coil works here perfectly fine thumb.gif
post #1736 of 3087
hey guys i need to catch up with this thread again, after 2 months off. Hope all the best for those had picked Durelene here cuz mine tubes going so strong smile.gif still clear and no signs of plasticizers, when the tube are dry it does show something in it but when it wet you cannot tell if you have any kind of cloud stuff on it. BRB short guys and lets keep this thread up smile.gif
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post #1737 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

...when the tube are dry it does show something in it but when it wet you cannot tell if you have any kind of cloud stuff on it.

White haze?
post #1738 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTCB View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

Did you have problems before this? If you did, did you flush your loop and how?

First time I've used Durelene. The loop was thoroughly flushed. I just filled the loop up with coolant (distilled+corrosion inhibitor) and let it run for a couple of days at varying speed. Then, drained and filled with coolant. No other chemicals; baking soda, vinegar, etc. If that's what you're asking.

Also, the little section which I cut earlier (seen in previous photo) has now become cloudy in just 24 hours. It's sorta like a white haze, no gunk or thick slimy stuff. All fine by me if it doesn't get worse or leave any nasty residue.

The reason I asked was, it's a PITA to get that stuff out of the rads once it's in there. So if you had a problem before the Durelene, it could be left over stuff spreading from the rad. This is why that new hose turned so fast, it's not that hose turning, it's just getting coated from whats in there already.
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post #1739 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

The reason I asked was, it's a PITA to get that stuff out of the rads once it's in there. So if you had a problem before the Durelene, it could be left over stuff spreading from the rad. This is why that new hose turned so fast, it's not that hose turning, it's just getting coated from whats in there already.

I see what you mean now. No, this is my new setup. Durelene is the only tubing used, and all parts are brand new. Now that you mentioned it, I'm beginning to worry about the Durelene leaving stuff behind in the loop as I'll be switching to Norprene soon. frown.gif
post #1740 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTCB View Post

White haze?
yes haze.
Durelene is very durable when it comes to cloud ( knowing haze or plasticizer ) so far so good this is one of the best cheap tubingm The resistance of this tube is very well in terms of water loop ( cooper, Plating and other metal ) that we have in our loop.
Edited by skyn3t - 10/29/12 at 3:52pm
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