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post #191 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

rolleyes.gif meh, so no clear tube is immune to the dreaded cloudiness. That's it, I'm going color when my tube goes bad (I give it about a month, two tops wink.gif ).

I am done with plain-old distilled water.. too much of a hassle, it need silver coils, concentrated biocide, etc. That why I am using Ice Dragon cooling now. Even if my tube cloud again I won't see it, cause Ice Dragon is white anyway. whistle.gif
Edited by Epicgamers - 2/13/12 at 11:49pm
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post #192 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epicgamers View Post

I am done with plain-old distilled water.. too much of a hassle, it need silver coils, concentrated biocide, etc. That why I am using Ice Dragon cooling now. Even if my tube cloud again I won't see it anyway, cause Ice Dragon is white anyway. whistle.gif

Milky tongue.gif

Mayhems has a pastel color line up. Kinda tempted but I don't think blue led fans + yellow (or orange) pastel will mix well redface.gif
post #193 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat View Post

I don't have clouding issues with my old Primochill LRT. I've always bought it from NCIX. My new rig is using new Primoflex from NCIX as well as some from PPCS.

I have just installed new tubing, Primoflex LRT from NCIX. UV Blue. Clouding after two weeks is evident from the outside.

My GPU loop had Clearflex 60 with Zalman ZMG100. No clouding. Ran loop without any maintenance for over a year. Some portions yellowed (tubing itself, not a deposit)
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post #194 of 3087
As it turns out I've been running with Feser 1 Green and/or Acid Green in various clear tubing for about two years. It has never once gotten as bad as any of these pics, and I only change things up every 6 months or longer. Worst case, my clear duralene got slightly hazy and had a slight green tint after the coolant had been sitting stagnant and exposed to outside air for about a month, after running in the loop for 3 or 4 months. So much for coolant being the cause of horrible gunk buildups.
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post #195 of 3087
No answer for the Radiator flush?

Leme try again then...

How do you guys approach your flush. Do you do it manually with Tap or mechanically using a filter and distilled? Cause I had a thought when checking out Martin's blog and there is a pic of a Chip Block being flushed with Tap water, followed by a YT vid of a Corroded and Calicified Radiator and a WCMods YT vid of how he does it using a small fountan pump, a Bucket and a filter. Which got me to thinking that maybe some of the cloudiness might be residual from the flushing of the Radiator. I know some people just use straight tap water, while some use Tap and Rinse w/Distilled and some use Vinegar mixed with distilled to rinse the left over Tap out of the system.

Also, to muddy this up a little more are your Rads new or used? Used could explain things some more if the method used was simply straight Tap water. Where I live the water is so high in mineral content that the Tea Kettle is calcified. It only gets filled via the Pur Filter that is on the Tap, but it's absolutely horrendous. It's to the point where the lid on the kettle sticks to the opening sometimes. So you know I'm not gonna be flushing with Tap here.

So if you would it would be much appreciated. Also relate any experiences regarding your Tap water as it may lead to figuring this out. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #196 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

No answer for the Radiator flush?
Leme try again then...
How do you guys approach your flush. Do you do it manually with Tap or mechanically using a filter and distilled? Cause I had a thought when checking out Martin's blog and there is a pic of a Chip Block being flushed with Tap water, followed by a YT vid of a Corroded and Calicified Radiator and a WCMods YT vid of how he does it using a small fountan pump, a Bucket and a filter. Which got me to thinking that maybe some of the cloudiness might be residual from the flushing of the Radiator. I know some people just use straight tap water, while some use Tap and Rinse w/Distilled and some use Vinegar mixed with distilled to rinse the left over Tap out of the system.
Also, to muddy this up a little more are your Rads new or used? Used could explain things some more if the method used was simply straight Tap water. Where I live the water is so high in mineral content that the Tea Kettle is calcified. It only gets filled via the Pur Filter that is on the Tap, but it's absolutely horrendous. It's to the point where the lid on the kettle sticks to the opening sometimes. So you know I'm not gonna be flushing with Tap here.
So if you would it would be much appreciated. Also relate any experiences regarding your Tap water as it may lead to figuring this out. smile.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

When I first get components i flush with running tap water for a good 15-30 min. After that I flush them out with distilled and vinegar, and then again with straight distilled.

When cleaning the loop, I use straight distilled, distilled + vinegar, straight distilled.

I use an air compressor to force ALL the liquid out at the end of each flush.
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post #197 of 3087
Great, what tubing do I use now....
    
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post #198 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by AddictedGamer93 View Post

Great, what tubing do I use now....

^^ we should create a "question of the month" award for this ^^
post #199 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

No answer for the Radiator flush?

Leme try again then...

How do you guys approach your flush. Do you do it manually with Tap or mechanically using a filter and distilled? Cause I had a thought when checking out Martin's blog and there is a pic of a Chip Block being flushed with Tap water, followed by a YT vid of a Corroded and Calicified Radiator and a WCMods YT vid of how he does it using a small fountan pump, a Bucket and a filter. Which got me to thinking that maybe some of the cloudiness might be residual from the flushing of the Radiator. I know some people just use straight tap water, while some use Tap and Rinse w/Distilled and some use Vinegar mixed with distilled to rinse the left over Tap out of the system.

Also, to muddy this up a little more are your Rads new or used? Used could explain things some more if the method used was simply straight Tap water. Where I live the water is so high in mineral content that the Tea Kettle is calcified. It only gets filled via the Pur Filter that is on the Tap, but it's absolutely horrendous. It's to the point where the lid on the kettle sticks to the opening sometimes. So you know I'm not gonna be flushing with Tap here.

So if you would it would be much appreciated. Also relate any experiences regarding your Tap water as it may lead to figuring this out. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Running hot tap water for 30 mins, filtering the water coming out with a paper towel to see if there is any discoloration or any other crap. Then distilled 5 times.
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post #200 of 3087
I've just removed a small section of black Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT (3/8" ID - 5/8" OD) that was bought last May and fitted in September so it's had 5 months with deionised water, silver kill coils and a drop of Copper Sulphate. There's no deposits at all. Fortunately I bought more than twice as much as I needed so still have enough left to redo the loop if needed.

All components were flushed with tap water with the rads (2 old, 1 new) having at least 60 minutes flushing time and the blocks were cleaned with lemon juice and salt. I never bother doing a final flush with deionised as it's never caused problems over the last few years.
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