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post #1961 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisf4lc0n View Post

So, that is not a plasticizer? It was submerge in the water, I was using it as an extender inside the Reserator, to allow the warm water to go to the top of the tank. eh-smiley.gif
Does it mean this tubing will not have problems with plasticizer?
Sorry for posting wrong data, but I was sure that it was plasticizer problem frown.gif

after it dry it will become clear again. If the tubing has some kinda haze inside them will be plasticizer. I doubt Plasticizer will be generate like that. Plasticizer can be generate in two to tree weeks after this period it become worse like you have seeing here can gunk and can damage some components like pump.

for exemple:

How pump can be damage by gunk+plasticizer?
my pump run a 12v @ 4250RPM, let's say you have gunk in the loop and you notice that your pump won't spin like before 4250RPM to 3750RPM the voltage will be the same 12v but it spin only 3750RPM and it make the pump work hotter than before. is the same think when you drive a car with the E-brake ON. car runbs slow and your well get's hotter right. same this happen with the pump. in another words you are degraded the pump life making the pump work with the same voltage but spinning less by pressure.

GoodInk had his pump damaged by gunk+plasticizer read up Potentia et Decor-WC Lian Li A70F By GoodInk
Edited by skyn3t - 11/18/12 at 9:02am
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post #1962 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post


after it dry it will become clear again. If the tubing has some kinda haze inside them will be plasticizer. I doubt Plasticizer will be generate like that. Plasticizer can be generate in two to tree weeks after this period it become worse like you have seeing here can gunk and can damage some components like pump.

for exemple:

How pump can be damage by gunk?
my pump run a 12v @ 4250RPM, let's say you have gunk in the loop and you notice that your pump won't spin like before 4250RPM to 3750RPM the voltage will be the same 12v but it spin only 3750RPM and it make the pump work hotter than before. is the same think when you drive a car with the E-brake ON. car runbs slow and your well get's hotter right. same this happen with the pump. in another words you are degraded the pump life making the pump work with the same voltage but spinning less by pressure.

Hold on, but it has dry out! It had not have any contact with water for about 5 months before the photo was taken!
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post #1963 of 3087
if you care to know . . . my duralene has been in service for over a month and still as clear as the first time it was installed.
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post #1964 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisf4lc0n View Post

Hold on, but it has dry out! It had not have any contact with water for about 5 months before the photo was taken!

then you cooked the tubing like a chicken smile.gif all white without condiments. biggrin.gif
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post #1965 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdr09 View Post

if you care to know . . . my duralene has been in service for over a month and still as clear as the first time it was installed.

rdr09, Nice to know bud you are free of having cream cheese in the loop. thumb.gif
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post #1966 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

It will partially work on the blocks, but the best way to go would be to strip your blocks-the reason being that the cooling fins inside of the block can also act as a filter, trapping any debris inside-so you'll have to make sure that, that's not the case.
Grab a small tooth brush to do the fins, grab some ketchup (for copper blocks/bases) place it on the area that is tarnished or needs cleaning for about 5-10 min, scrub it with your tooth brush rinse with normal water, then rinse again with Distilled water.
Stubborn pieces of plasticizer that may be trapped between fins may be removed with a sewing needle thumb.gif
Same needle process for nickel based blocks, but no ketchup-the vinegar in the ketchup left on for that long in direct contact may ruin the nickel finish-many use nickel cleaner(available at your automotive dealer) and after any tarnishing has been removed, then rinse with distilled water.
Obviously if the block has no signs of anything , just re assemble and you're good to go.
Rads youre in trouble due to the nature of plasticizer-it does not shift easily im afraid to say-you could try boiling water(WEAR GLOVES!!!!) and give it a good old shake about, but i doubt it will do much.
Pumps/reservoirs-strip and clean with distilled water and a soft cloth etc. then re rinse to get rid of any fibers the cloth may have left.
(NOTE: in most instances, although plasticizer may be heavily present in tubing, it does NOT seem to appear in reservoirs, or pumps)
Hope this helped mate thumb.gif

This helps immensely. Never done a water cooled pc before and it kind of sucks that this will be one of the first things I have to deal with. rolleyes.gif I haven't seen a general consensus on this, but does plasticizer generally just stay in the tubing? Or should I be worried about the radiators?
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

This will be up to you,"This is called peace of mind". if you think the blocks needs to be open then do it. can you post some pictures of your bad experience and may be we can tell you what or not to do.

Yes I was asking because this is the first time I have ever done a liquid cooled pc. I will post some pictures when I break open the loop. I am currently still waiting on some parts for expanding my loop. I will say this though I can not see my two silver kill coils that I put in before the GPU and CPU blocks. I am going to be trying Tygon R3400 this time around.

+rep to both of you.
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post #1967 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kj1060 View Post

This helps immensely. Never done a water cooled pc before and it kind of sucks that this will be one of the first things I have to deal with. rolleyes.gif I haven't seen a general consensus on this, but does plasticizer generally just stay in the tubing? Or should I be worried about the radiators?
Yes I was asking because this is the first time I have ever done a liquid cooled pc. I will post some pictures when I break open the loop. I am currently still waiting on some parts for expanding my loop. I will say this though I can not see my two silver kill coils that I put in before the GPU and CPU blocks. I am going to be trying Tygon R3400 this time around.
+rep to both of you.

I don't know about this Tygon R3400, have you looked into this one here Durelene PVC tubing 3/8in. ID 5/8in. if you are new to WC just go easy on parts it will going to cost a lot before you decide wich parts you going to keep.
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post #1968 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

I don't know about this Tygon R3400, have you looked into this one here Durelene PVC tubing 3/8in. ID 5/8in. if you are new to WC just go easy on parts it will going to cost a lot before you decide wich parts you going to keep.

I considered Durelene, but I don't really want clear tubing. I was recommend the Tygon R3400 by Xnine. I still consider myself new to water cooling even though I have had my loop running since May. I switched out the original tubing, Primochill UV Red, in July for the remainder of the tubing I originally bought.
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post #1969 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kj1060 View Post

I considered Durelene, but I don't really want clear tubing. I was recommend the Tygon R3400 by Xnine. I still consider myself new to water cooling even though I have had my loop running since May. I switched out the original tubing, Primochill UV Red, in July for the remainder of the tubing I originally bought.

did you order black tygon yet? if not just give a bit of time i need to look into my invoices here and i think i had got this bath before I'm not sure. this tubing is very different from what we normally use.

Edited: This tubing is very fragil it kink like a straw from MCdonald's lol man I'm serious looks like it made of a cheap plastic. it may work for you but didn't out for me. but I did found a good use for the TygonR3400 i made a giant circle like arena in a cardboard box for my kid to play BayBlade with they friends lachen.gif I swear of God, that's what i did . I did posted it here.


Edited by skyn3t - 11/18/12 at 12:40pm
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post #1970 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Could you post it again? I've been here pretty much since the beginning.
Quote:
Sometimes I miss a couple days worth of posts
an when I do I generally skip ahead. blushsmiley.gif
~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif


A many pages a go way way back you said and was thinking you had a good bath of primochill tubing with no sign of plasticizer . so since this day you never had opened your loop to look into it. I may be wrong * sorry if I'm wrong * like you said above *I quoted* sadly in the end you end up like everybody else here.


with spelling now smile.gif
Quote:
Hey Ceadder welcome to the Thread : Plasticizer Problems / Discussion / Gallery. i'm not laugh of your disgrace but I was waiting for you to speak out and loud since my post on page 80. I'm try to remember when Primochill had a good bath of tubing. but it was so so long a go that i got lost in the way. I wish all the best for you , now its time to work your a$$ off and clean the mess in your blocks.

Oh okay I see where you were going with that now. Sadly no I don't have a good batch. It's still localized to my tubing and not getting into my blocks yet but I'll know more when I pull my CPU block to start the RMA process on my CPU.

To clarify though, it wasn't that I had a good batch(that was more hope than anything else) but that I thought that additives could be speeding up the leeching process since the tubing has an additive embedded in it to prevent algae growth from happening. I don't run additives. No Kill Coil no PT Nuke, no nothing. Straight distilled. And nope it's not a good batch of tubing. Leaving the "c" out of the word "batch" was what confused the bejeezies out of me. All good, I now have what you meant figured out now. Thanks for the reminder. biggrin.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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