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post #2431 of 3087
Okay, time out. Has anybody tried more expensive tubing*? By that I mean the sort of thing you'd only get from a plastics retailer. It baffles me why people would spend all this money on radiators, reservoirs, pumps, etc, etc and then skimp on the one thing that is absolutely necessary to make water cooling work.

* - I mean Saint-Gobain hospital/laboratory-grade tubing with high wall hardness and temperature ratings. The price varies by exactly what you're getting, but it's $2+/ft.
post #2432 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrwulf View Post

Okay, time out. Has anybody tried more expensive tubing*? By that I mean the sort of thing you'd only get from a plastics retailer. It baffles me why people would spend all this money on radiators, reservoirs, pumps, etc, etc and then skimp on the one thing that is absolutely necessary to make water cooling work.

* - I mean Saint-Gobain hospital/laboratory-grade tubing with high wall hardness and temperature ratings. The price varies by exactly what you're getting, but it's $2+/ft.


I would say yes.

Imho, i dont think that people want to skimp on tubing, it just seems that at the moment the cheaper tubing, such as Durlene performs better than more expensive tubing out there.

Im not going to delve back into the thread to get examples, but ive seen all kind of tubing types pass before my eyes so to speak, in this thread.

Remember one thing-Saint Gobain are the makers of Tygon, Durelene etc. wink.gif

Ive seen people that have tried all types of top grade Tygon tubing, in this thread, that though does not preclude you from getting the tubing you suggested, using it and posting some feedback-i, and im sure other followers of this thread would love to get feedback on any tubing-it all adds to the overall picture, good suggestion though smile.gif
post #2433 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

Remember one thing-Saint Gobain are the makers of Tygon, Durelene etc. wink.gif

I know, which is why I put Saint-Gobain in my post and not one of their trade names.
Quote:
Ive seen people that have tried all types of top grade Tygon tubing, in this thread, that though does not preclude you from getting the tubing you suggested, using it and posting some feedback-i, and im sure other followers of this thread would love to get feedback on any tubing-it all adds to the overall picture, good suggestion though smile.gif

Unfortunately my only computer at the moment is a laptop and even when it was alive my Alienware was never easy to work with. That said, when I do build my next desktop I'm certainly going to make sure the tubing is top flight; I don't know that I'll splurge on the stuff rated for acids and radioactive waste, but assuredly FEP tubing or another fluoropolymer.
post #2434 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo Zuko View Post

After reading this thread for months, I still don't have an answer between Duraleen, plasticizer free Tygon, and Advanced Primochill.

You must have missed a few posts, there have been people using the new Advanced LRT for months without any problems or discoloration, most of those users using clear tubing. I have had both clear and Bloodshed Red sitting in an acid bath for 48 hours with no hint of discoloration or hazing.
post #2435 of 3087
Wanted to post my experience. I believe it's much the same as others who have contributed to this thread.
My GPU took a dump so I had to RMA it and decided to redo the tubing in my loop. I have Durelene tubing ordered from Sidewinder Comps off Amazon Marketplace.
These are pictures after two months using brand new waterblocks (Heatkiller GPU & Raystorm CPU), brand new bitspower Nickel barbs, & a brand new XSPC RX360 rad.
Coolant is just Safeway Refreshe Distilled water w/Deadwater & 2 silver killcoils inside the reservoir.

This is the loop after I cut out the GPU lines & was draining the water out. Notice the yellow tint.


More pictures of the used tubing.


And some pics of the used tubing compared to brand new.

Also something interesting to note, the following pic is part of the line where I had a drain valve installed. There was no running water though this part of the line. To the right you can see the T-splitter and this tubing went strait down to the bottom of the case. The coolant flows straight through the T-splitter back into the reservoir/pump.


I didn't have the patience to order some other tubing and see how it works, my rig was down for nearly 3 wks waiting for the GPU RMA. I rebuilt the loop with the same Duralene tubing and this time am using H20 brand Distilled water w/PT Nuke & same 2 silver kill coils. I know that recent posts have suggested the additives are causing the plasticizer but I'll see how this goes.
post #2436 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by judi924 View Post

Wanted to post my experience. I believe it's much the same as others who have contributed to this thread.

I didn't have the patience to order some other tubing and see how it works, my rig was down for nearly 3 wks waiting for the GPU RMA. I rebuilt the loop with the same Duralene tubing and this time am using H20 brand Distilled water w/PT Nuke & same 2 silver kill coils. I know that recent posts have suggested the additives are causing the plasticizer but I'll see how this goes.

I am still yet to see someone contribute that when using glycol based coolant with no biocide, have clouding/plasterisation or coolant discolorisation maybe there is something in that? To be truthful I also havn't read all 230+ pages.
I would do this get a cup put 5 drops of PT Nuke in it + water, I know that's way too much but this will give you an idea over night what will happen in 1-2 weeks or months. just I wouldn't like the idea of pulling down a rig if you can replicate a test in a cup and predict the out come
And please post your findings:thumb:
Edited by feznz - 2/9/13 at 8:01pm
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post #2437 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrwulf View Post

Okay, time out. Has anybody tried more expensive tubing*? By that I mean the sort of thing you'd only get from a plastics retailer. It baffles me why people would spend all this money on radiators, reservoirs, pumps, etc, etc and then skimp on the one thing that is absolutely necessary to make water cooling work..
Because you can have a water cooling system without a coolant or pump?
post #2438 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by feznz View Post

I am still yet to see someone contribute that when using glycol based coolant with no biocide, have clouding/plasterisation or coolant discolorisation maybe there is something in that?

I've been using the Koolance UV Red coolant in my loop with Durelene tubing for over a month now. I reconfigured it a couple weeks ago and did a complete drain, including replacing a section of tubing.





Bottom is the older tubing, top is a section of new. Ignore the pink spots, that's just dried coolant. You can kind of tell I do have some slight hazing. It did wipe off, but I'm also wondering if it was from when I did my leak testing. Come to find out that when I did it, I used a gal jug of drinking water that I though was distilled. I got it from my dad as that's what he was using in his loop for refilling. If I knew from the beginning that it was drinking, I wouldn't of used it for my tests so this could be mineral buildup from that from the little bit of excess water that was left in the loop.

When I break down my system again in a few months, I'll report how the section of new tubing I installed and the original is doing.
Edited by Lareson - 2/9/13 at 8:17pm
post #2439 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

You must have missed a few posts, there have been people using the new Advanced LRT for months without any problems or discoloration, most of those users using clear tubing. I have had both clear and Bloodshed Red sitting in an acid bath for 48 hours with no hint of discoloration or hazing.

I do kinda skim but I guess I expected far more hands on for sure buy this endorsements by now for the new Advanced Primochill. But you are right, Duraleen or Advanced Primochill seem to be ok based off the results here.
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post #2440 of 3087
I use nothing but PTNuke-PHN and Distilled Water (my TDS-meter reads 000 fresh out of the 2.5gal container and 002 after 6mo), and I have never had any plasticizer issues....since stopping the use of a Kill Coil and monitoring the PH of my water, and the same goes for a number of friends.

Running with a PH of 7.06 and with nothing but PTN-PHN, one friend has had PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing running for going on 19 weeks without a hint of plasticizer. In another computer, from the same exact roll of PF PRO LRT, a system has the same Distilled Water (from same container) and is using a Kill Coil and regular PT-Nuke; it started leaching within the first 2 days, and the PH has ranged from ~5.9 to 8.75 over the same period of time!!!

I will have to do some more experimenting, but I think that the Kill Coils and the PH of the loop are keys in this...
   
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