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post #2451 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrwulf View Post

Nobody sacrifices quality on the altar of cheapness when it comes to those two.
I saw a guy yelling about how people are always cheaping out on the brand of distilled water that they are using, a while ago.
post #2452 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Vanelay View Post

I saw a guy yelling about how people are always cheaping out on the brand of distilled water that they are using, a while ago.

How does that work? Any DI or distilled water you get at a pharmacy is going to be the same thing, because there are specs for that sort of thing. At least, that's the case in America, I've been told it's not at all the case in the UK.
post #2453 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lareson View Post


Judi924, If you've been running your rig for 2 months with distilled water and what you added and mine has been running for over 1 month and our tubing look completely different with weeks apart, I'm starting to think that any biocide additives may be bad for Durelene.

I have no kill coils, no biocide additives, just the pre-mixed propylene glycol coolant from Koolance. I think I'm the 1st than I know of to run this combo of Koolance coolant and Durelene tubing. It would be great to know if someone else has used the same stuff for a longer period of time.
I read a thread a while ago that I can't find now where a guy was testing different coolants. He was running Distilled water & PT nuke for nearly a year without any problems. I'm coming to the conclusion that my problems are due to the kill coils.
Quote:
Originally Posted by feznz View Post

I am still yet to see someone contribute that when using glycol based coolant with no biocide, have clouding/plasterisation or coolant discolorisation maybe there is something in that? To be truthful I also havn't read all 230+ pages.
I would do this get a cup put 5 drops of PT Nuke in it + water, I know that's way too much but this will give you an idea over night what will happen in 1-2 weeks or months. just I wouldn't like the idea of pulling down a rig if you can replicate a test in a cup and predict the out come
And please post your findings:thumb:
I'm not sure if that's a good indication. I had Dead Water + Kill Coil + Distilled water sitting in a Durelene tube for 2+ months and it looks like brand new tubing. The running water through the tube seems to play a major role in the plasticizing.
post #2454 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrwulf View Post

How does that work? Any DI or distilled water you get at a pharmacy is going to be the same thing, because there are specs for that sort of thing. At least, that's the case in America, I've been told it's not at all the case in the UK.
Well, you can get DI water at grocery stores and places like that too. Not all of it is great.
post #2455 of 3087
I know there's been issues with combining nickle and silver and also wondering if using it in combination with distilled water and a biocide in a way causes some issues. Judi924, you said you had nickle barbs, right? I think that's your issue there. The silver from the kill coil and the nickle barbs are reacting and causing your tubing to look like that. I say take out the kill coil, leave everything else like it is, redo the tubing and check back with us. It just kind of clicked with me when I was reading about the issues with nickle and silver.

I notice that EK and Koolance said avoid putting in a silver kill coil in your loop in combination with nickle blocks due to running the risk of damaging the nickle plating, so wondering if its the same thing, but instead its your fittings.
post #2456 of 3087
I wonder, how many people are using the Cu-Sulphate PTNuke and how many are using PTNuke-PHN, and what percentage of each have had plasticizer issues??


Also, the Primochill Advanced LRT has been good to me; I really like it, especially the fact that the black from the fittings that rubs off onto the white of the tubing can easily be removed! The tubing IS NOTICEABLY STIFFER THAN the PRO LRT, but it holds bends extremely well.
Also, the stuff seems to be slightly different in terms of tolerance than the Primoflex Pro LRT, as when I went to put the first bit of tubing over a Bitspower Compression Barb, it simply wouldn't go! It took me like 5 minutes to get it on there! This is compared to the Pro LRT which did take some effort but not so much that I was worried about breaking something! I HONESTLY THOUGHT that I had gotten a box with the wrong size marked on it, because it felt like trying to put 7/16x3/4 tubing on a 1/2x3/4 compression!


Anyway, here are a couple pics of the "PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2x3/4 WHITE Tubing" in my rig... I know it isn't finished yet; I am having a B!TCH of a time with the last run of tubing, from the EK Multioption Res X2 top outlet to the XSPC Single Bay Res Inlet, as my fill-port is in-between the two so a nice bend is almost impossible (I have at least a half-dozen cuts of tubing that were off by just a few millimeters or so!)....






   
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post #2457 of 3087
Why would anyone put uncoated nickle in their loops? It makes me wonder how many of these so-called plasticizer issues are really due to galvanic corrosion.
post #2458 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by judi924 View Post

Wanted to post my experience. I believe it's much the same as others who have contributed to this thread.
My GPU took a dump so I had to RMA it and decided to redo the tubing in my loop. I have Durelene tubing ordered from Sidewinder Comps off Amazon Marketplace.
These are pictures after two months using brand new waterblocks (Heatkiller GPU & Raystorm CPU), brand new bitspower Nickel barbs, & a brand new XSPC RX360 rad.
Coolant is just Safeway Refreshe Distilled water w/Deadwater & 2 silver killcoils inside the reservoir.

This is the loop after I cut out the GPU lines & was draining the water out. Notice the yellow tint.


More pictures of the used tubing.


And some pics of the used tubing compared to brand new.

Also something interesting to note, the following pic is part of the line where I had a drain valve installed. There was no running water though this part of the line. To the right you can see the T-splitter and this tubing went strait down to the bottom of the case. The coolant flows straight through the T-splitter back into the reservoir/pump.


I didn't have the patience to order some other tubing and see how it works, my rig was down for nearly 3 wks waiting for the GPU RMA. I rebuilt the loop with the same Duralene tubing and this time am using H20 brand Distilled water w/PT Nuke & same 2 silver kill coils. I know that recent posts have suggested the additives are causing the plasticizer but I'll see how this goes.

OH THE GREENS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Im using only killcoil and distilled water.. Bought also from sidewinders...

can you check if you can clean the pipe like i did with my sample?

Thanks for the feedback..
Edited by zGunBLADEz - 2/11/13 at 11:54am
post #2459 of 3087
I'm just planning on bloodshot red advanced Primochill, distilled water, and PT Nuke PTH. All copper, brass, a bit of stainless steel, that's it, I also avoided silver coils and plated products.
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post #2460 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo Zuko View Post

Well I think I'll try the Primochill Advanced then. I was thinking red... How does the red look in person... Is it a vivid superman red?

The blood shed red is made from real blood, nah just messing with you but really it's extremely close to the color of blood as one can get! Seriously!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucshman View Post

Liquid Utopia is a product made by Primochill, it's a biocide and corrosion inhibitor in one.

Can you recommend it or is it not proven?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lareson View Post

I know there's been issues with combining nickle and silver and also wondering if using it in combination with distilled water and a biocide in a way causes some issues. Judi924, you said you had nickle barbs, right? I think that's your issue there. The silver from the kill coil and the nickle barbs are reacting and causing your tubing to look like that. I say take out the kill coil, leave everything else like it is, redo the tubing and check back with us. It just kind of clicked with me when I was reading about the issues with nickle and silver.

I notice that EK and Koolance said avoid putting in a silver kill coil in your loop in combination with nickle blocks due to running the risk of damaging the nickle plating, so wondering if its the same thing, but instead its your fittings.

On my last loop I had running on my old computer build I used a combination of Bitspower compression fittings, some nickel plated and two black powder coated. The real shocker was the nickel coming off my GPU, CPU and nickel plated Bitspower compression fittings had corrosion on them.

However my powder coated compressions had absolutely nothing wrong with them, I just wiped off the contamination sludge like I was washing dishes!
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